What To Do If Your Pet Is Poisoned

If your pet gets poisoned, it is important not to panic and stay calm.

Clear the Air has found some helpful information provided by the ASPCA on what to do if your pet has been poisoned.

Please read below:

Take 30 to 60 seconds to safely collect and have at hand any material involved. This may be of great benefit to your vet as they determine what poison or poisons are involved. In the event that you need to take your pet to a local veterinarian, be sure to take the product’s container with you. Also, collect in a sealable plastic bag any material your pet may have vomited or chewed.

If you witness your pet consuming material that you suspect might be toxic, do not hesitate to seek emergency assistance, even if you do not notice any adverse effects. Sometimes, even if poisoned, an animal may appear normal for several hours or for days after the incident.

Call the ASPCA Animal Poison Control Center

The telephone number is (888) 426-4435. There is a $65 consultation fee for this service.

Be ready with the following information:

• The species, breed, age, sex, weight and number of animals involved.
• The animal’s symptoms.
• Information regarding the exposure, including the agent (if known), the amount of the agent involved and the time elapsed since the time of exposure.
• Have the product container/packaging available for reference.

Please note: If your animal is having seizures, losing consciousness, is unconscious or is having difficulty breathing, telephone ahead and bring your pet immediately to your local veterinarian or emergency veterinary clinic.

Be Prepared

Keep the telephone number of the ASPCA Animal Poison Control Center—(888) 426-4435—as well as that of your local veterinarian, in a prominent location.

Invest in an emergency first-aid kit for your pet. The kit should contain:

• A fresh bottle of hydrogen peroxide, 3 percent USP (to induce vomiting)
• A turkey baster, bulb syringe or large medicine syringe (to administer peroxide)
• Saline eye solution
• Artificial tear gel (to lubricate eyes after flushing)
• Mild grease-cutting dish washing liquid (for bathing an animal after skin contamination)
• Forceps (to remove stingers)
• A muzzle (to protect against fear- or excitement-induced biting)
• A can of your pet’s favorite wet food
• A pet carrier

Always consult a veterinarian or the APCC for directions on how and when to use any emergency first-aid item.

Kitty Cool Down Tips for Summertime

With summertime approaching it is important to take extra steps to make sure your pets stay cool.

A cat that becomes overheated in the summer can suffer from dehydration, shallow breathing and can even get heatstroke.

Always provide plenty of clean, fresh water for your fuzzy feline.  Help your kitty enjoy a happy and safe summer this year by following these helpful kitty cool down steps:

• Let Your Cat Decide His Cool Spot – Cats are smart about comfort at all times including during the heat.  Ever notice your cat curling up in the sink or sprawling out on the tile?  Porcelain and tile stay cool even when it’s hot outside providing a great place for your kitty to cool down.
• Calm Kitty – If your cat is running around too much during a really hot day, he will soon become exhausted and dehydrated.  Provide a relaxed, indoor place that is both cool and darkened to allow your kitty to cool down.  Don’t initiate play when he is in an agitated state.
• Create A Hide Out – Use a cardboard box or something else that is out of the way and dark near a cool spot.  You can line it with a terry towel or other type of cotton, breathable natural fabric that isn’t too warm.  Sticking an ice pack inside a sock and placing it in his retreat is also a helpful added cooling affect.
• Shady Garden Area – Make sure your yard has some shady spots for your outdoor cat to enjoy.  If you provide them, your kitty will find them.  It should be somewhere a gentle breeze is available.  If you have outdoor buildings such as greenhouses or sheds, double check you haven’t locked your kitty in there before closing the door.  This could end up killing your cat as temperatures rise in these types of shelters.
• Wet Towels – Most cats don’t like the water however you can help cool your cat down with dampened towels.  If you simply dampen a cloth or paper towel and stroke your cat with it, it can help cool him down.  Good areas to cool down, where cats get warmest, is on their bellies, the pads of their paws, armpits, under their chins and on the outside of their ears.
• Brush Your Cat – This helps take away any matted fur which can trap heat and helps air flow freely through his coat.  This is especially important for long haired breeds of cats.  Do not shave your cat as this can expose your cat to the sun and result in sunburn and skin cancer.
• Always Have Water Available – Dehydration is a real risk for cats during the hot summer months so constant water access is essential. Always, always have water available for your kitty.

Kitty Litter Odor Bringing You Down? Learn How To Never Have To Smell It Again!

Your kitty litter box shouldn’t be a battle and Clear the Air would like to share some helpful tips to keeping an odor free litter box.

Follow these steps to an odor free litter box and home:

Scooping – The number one rule, and the only thing that will keep litter box odor at bay, is constant cleaning. That means scooping the box out at least twice a day, removing the solids and liquid clumps if you use clumping litter.  If you don’t use clumping litter, you can use a large solid metal spoon to lift out the most urine-soaked areas each time you clean and add litter as needed to replace what is removed.

Washing Your Litter Box – You should also get in the habit of washing the litter box at least every other week if not more.  Use a mild unscented dish detergent and rinse clean.  Remember to clean your scooper too.  When the box is dry, sprinkle a thin layer of our Cat Urine Odor Eliminator in the box first.  Then add two to three inches of litter.  Cats do not like a deep tray of litter and this allows you to add litter as you scoop.

Type of Litter – Some have perfumes and others have additives to only cover the smell.  To a cat, these smells can be overwhelming and make the box unwelcoming.  It is usually a good idea to get unscented litter and sprinkle our Cat Urine Odor Eliminator in the box to eliminate the odor, not cover it up.

Type of Litter Box – Using the largest box your home can accommodate is the best idea.  A good rule of thumb is to get a box that is at least twice as long as your adult cat and wide as the cat is long.  Even though a covered box is nicer to look at, most cats don’t like them and they also trap odors inside making it unpleasant for your pet to enter.  Cats claws can get stuck in liners when they are digging for a place to relieve themselves and the urine can also seep into the liner, trapping odors in the box.

Location – Lastly, location of your cats litter box is very important to keep your pet happy to relieve himself in the correct areas.  The rule is one litter box per cat plus one.  If your cat is on the third floor of your house and the litter box is in the basement, he may not decide to make the long trek.  It is important to have the boxes in different locations.  Also make sure the box is in a low traffic area, away from his or her food and in a place that your cat can easily get in and out of.

These suggestions may take a lot of effort but not only with your cat be happier but you will as well, not having to put up with cat urine odors.    Remember to pick up Clear the Air’s Cat Urine Odor Eliminator available at all Petco stores or online.

San Diego Humane Society’s 18th Annual Walk for Animals

In honor of Clear the Air’s fundraiser for The San Diego Humane Society, check out this great event you can be a part of to help raise money for the Humane Society…

Check out the San Diego Humane Society’s 18th Annual Walk for Animals! You and your furry friends will have a tail-waggin’ good time as we walk to celebrate our love for animals while raising the vital funds needed to ensure that every companion animal can find a loving home.

The morning festivities include a delicious pancake breakfast, a scenic ¾ mile walk, fun-filled doggie activities and contests, and an array of vendors. Help us reach our goal of $600,000!

Click Here to sign up for the event!

Dogs – On the Brink of Sniffing Out Disease?

Dog’s noses are amazing, so much in fact they are able to detect individual scent molecules among thousands; molecules so small that they elude hi-tech sensory equipment.

Dog’s noses are used to rescue people, discover drugs, uncover agricultural contraband, sniff out bombs and detect landmines.

What about disease?  There has been evidence that dogs may be able to give early warning signs of cancer and the onset of epileptic seizures.  In spite of a lot of hype, however, the evidence is far from conclusive.  Researchers have made some progress but the jury is still out on whether dogs will assume a new role in the field of medicine.

Check out some of these scenarios we got from Petplace.com.

Sniffing Out Cancer

In 1989, a woman went to see her doctor about a mole in her left leg. The mole had been there for quite a few months, but she paid it little interest. Her dog, on the other hand, soon became obsessed with it.

At first, the dog – a cross between a border collie and a Doberman – constantly sniffed or licked at the mole, even through clothing. He eventually tried to bite it off, according to the Lancet, a highly respected British medical journal. The 44-year-old woman decided it was time to get this thing checked out. The mole turned out to be malignant melanoma, a life-threatening form of skin cancer, and it was quickly removed. Her dog, by bringing it to her attention, had saved the woman’s life.

Intrigued with persistent reports of such phenomena, Florida dermatologist Armand Cognetta decided to investigate possible medical uses. In 1996, Cognetta borrowed a 7-year-old schnauzer named George, a recently retired bomb-sniffing canine, and asked for help from a veteran dog trainer. The goal was to see if George (who had an uncanny sense of smell, even for a dog) could consistently sniff out melanoma, in both tissue samples and in people.

Normally, a handheld microscope is used to diagnose potential skin cancer, followed by a biopsy. The microscope is about 80 percent effective in early diagnosis, which is why further tests are usually conducted to confirm the diagnosis.

After many hours of training, the gray schnauzer scored nearly 100 percent on identifying melanoma tissue samples. Cognetta then allowed George to “examine” actual patients. He discovered melanoma in four (possibly five, depending on how you look at the results) of seven patients. Cognetta wrote that the results were interesting but far from conclusive. A much larger, more controlled study is necessary to determine if dogs can be trained to reliably detect cancer.

However, if they do have the ability to detect disease, don’t expect dogs in medical practices any time soon. The cost to train a dog would be astronomical – $35,000 per dog, with 1,200 hours of training. That costs way more than even an MRI exam. A biopsy would be necessary in any case, because doctors would never base an opinion on a single diagnosis.

The real promise is to discover how dogs are able to do it, and then build a machine to mimic the skill. Studies are underway in seven institutions across the globe to find out why some dogs have this amazing ability.

Detecting Epilepsy

Dogs also have been reported to be able to detect the onset of epileptic seizures, sometimes 20 minutes prior to an attack. The benefit of this is obvious: a person can be forewarned to find a safe place or get help before being incapacitated.

Unfortunately, in spite of the many anecdotal reports of “seizure alert dogs,” there is no scientific evidence or documented proof that dogs can be reliably trained to detect the onset of a seizure. The seizure itself is a symptom, not a specific disease. Seizures can occur for a variety of reasons, one of which is epilepsy. Regardless of the cause, the electrical activity in the brain is temporarily disrupted during a seizure. Seizures can be hardly noticeable, or they can be incapacitating.

The Epilepsy Institute has been unsuccessful in its attempts to study whether dogs can reliably predict seizures. The institute used EEG machines and video cameras to monitor epileptics with their dogs. Limited funding did not permit 24-hour monitoring, and during the monitoring no seizures took place.

But finding evidence of this ability would only be a first step. Training a dog to recognize and respond appropriately is the greater challenge. If dogs have this ability, there is no way to know if a dog can be trained with this skill.

“There is no guarantee that a dog, if he can detect a seizure, will do so 10 out of 10 times,” explained Beth Rivard, executive director of a nationally recognized service dog program. Rivard heads up the Prison Pet Partnership Program, at Washington Corrections Center for Women, in Washington.

Beginning in 1981, the program has been teaching inmates to care for and train service dogs, which are then placed with recipients suffering from a number of disorders, including epilepsy. When a seizure begins, dogs are trained to stay with the person, and to get a phone or medication if directed to do so. They also know to get help, and may even know to try to roll a person onto his side to prevent choking.

But Rivard said there’s no way to train a dog to detect when a seizure is imminent. “It would be a great thing if they can do it, but how do you prove it every time,” she said. If a dog senses a chemical change prior to a seizure – which they may – the odor would have to be replicated to train the dog to react the right way, every time. That may be difficult because seizures are electrical disturbances within the brain.

The Epilepsy Institute recommends against getting a dog for the purpose of predicting seizures, and does not recommend any trainers for this purpose. After conducting interviews, the institute concluded that despite the publicity, few people have actually reported that their pets have this ability. Half of those who said their pets did show some ability were more likely to identify behavior during or after a seizure – and not before.

However, the institute noted that enough reports sound authentic enough to warrant more scientific research.

The institute is pursuing funding to conduct more extensive research, and has developed a pet profile questionnaire to collect data on the subject. After filling out the form, individuals will be interviewed by phone to the likelihood that their pet can detect seizures prior to human awareness.

Proper Cleaning for your Reptile’s Cage

Cage maintenance for your reptile should receive proper attention.

Reptiles are susceptible to bacterial infections of the skin and digestive tract so cages and housing  must be thoroughly and regularly cleaned. In order to a safe and healthy home for your reptile, routine cage maintenance is necessary by keeping the cage odor-free.  It is ideal to place an Odor Remover Bag in the cage to help keep away any foul odors.  Clear the Air is completely non-toxic and 100% safe around all types of animals.

Allergic to pets? Learn how you can still keep your furry companions!

Although more and more people are discovering the beneficial effects of owning a furry bundle of joy, the fact remains that roughly 15 to 20 percent of the population is allergic to animals. The result? Countless owners in unhappy, unhealthy situations—and their beloved pets are the cause! Allergen is the medical term for the actual substance that causes an allergic reaction. Touching or inhaling allergens leads to reactions in allergic individuals. Symptoms can include red, itchy, watery eyes and nose; sneezing; coughing; scratchy or sore throat; itchy skin, and most serious of all, difficulty breathing.

The most common pet allergens are proteins found in their dander (scales of old skin that are constantly shed by an animal), saliva, urine and sebaceous cells. Any animal can trigger an allergic response, but cats are the most common culprits. People can also become allergic to the urine, dander and saliva of exotic pets such as ferrets, guinea pigs, birds, rabbits and rodents. There is no species or breed to which humans cannot develop allergies. Fur length and type will not affect or prevent allergies. Certain pets can be less irritating than others to those who suffer from allergies, but that is strictly on an individual basis and cannot be predicted.

Once the diagnosis of a pet allergy is made, a physician will often recommend eliminating the companion animal from the surroundings. Heartbreaking? Yes. Absolutely necessary? Not always. Keep in mind that most people are allergic to several things besides pets, such as dust mites, molds and pollens, all of which can be found in the home. Allergic symptoms result from the total cumulative allergen load. That means that if you eliminate some of the other allergens, you may not have to get rid of your pet. (Conversely, should you decide to remove your pet from your home, this may not immediately solve your problems.) You must also be prepared to invest the time and effort needed to decontaminate your home environment, limit future exposure to allergens and find a physician who will work with you. Our three-part program follows:

Improving the Immediate Environment

1. Create an allergen-free room. A bedroom is often the best and most practical choice. By preventing your pet from entering this room, you can ensure at least eight hours of freedom from allergens every night. It’s a good idea to use hypoallergenic bedding and pillow materials.
2. Limit fabrics. Allergens collect in rugs, drapes and upholstery, so do your best to limit or eliminate them from your home. If you choose to keep some fabrics, steam-clean them regularly. Cotton-covered furniture is the smartest choice, and washable blinds or shades make good window treatments.
3. Vacuum frequently using a vacuum equipped with a HEPA (high-efficiency particulate arresting) filter or a disposable electrostatic bag. Other kinds of bags will permit allergens to blow back out of the vacuum.
4. Install an air purifier fitted with a HEPA filter. Our modern, energy-efficient homes lock in air that is loaded with allergens, so it’s smart to let in some fresh air daily.
5. Use anti-allergen room sprays. These sprays deactivate allergens, rendering them harmless. Ask your allergist for a product recommendation.
6. Clean the litter box frequently. Use lowdust, perfume-free filler. Clumping litter is a good choice.
7. Dust regularly. Wiping down the walls will also cut down on allergens.
8. Invest in washable pet bedding and cages that can be cleaned often and easily.

Decontaminating Your Pet

1. Bathe your pet at least once a week. Your veterinarian can recommend a shampoo that won’t dry out his skin. Bathing works to wash off the allergens that accumulate in an animal’s fur.
2. Wipe your pet with a product formulated to prevent dander from building up and flaking off into the environment. Ask your veterinarian to suggest one that is safe to use on animals who groom themselves.
3. Note any symptoms of dermatitis exhibited by your companion animal. Dermatitis often leads to accelerated skin and fur shedding, which will up your allergen exposure.
4. Brush or comb your pet frequently. It’s best to do this outdoors, if possible. (The ASPCA does not recommend keeping cats outdoors, so make sure your feline is leashed if you take him outside.)

Taking Care of Yourself

1. If possible, have someone other than yourself do the housecleaning, litter box work and pet washing, wiping and brushing. If you must clean the house or change the litter, be sure to wear a dust mask.
2. Wash your hands after handling your companion animal and before touching your face. The areas around your nose and eyes are particularly sensitive to allergens.
3. Designate a “pet outfit” from among your most easily washed clothes. Wear it when playing or cuddling with your companion, and you’ll leave other clothing uncontaminated.
4. Find a physician, preferably an allergy specialist, who will make sure that your pet is the cause of your allergies and will help alleviate your symptoms. Medications and immunotherapy (desensitizing shots) can often allow you and your companion animal to remain together happily ever after.

Article from ASPCA’s website.

Traveling With Your Dog – What To Know

Dog are a part of our every day life.  When we go on vacation, it is nice to be able to bring our faithful companion on our travels with us.

However, there are some things to keep in mind when traveling with your dog to make sure he/she is safe and has an enjoyable trip.

First, you should make sure to bring your dog to the vet’s for a check up before going on an extended trip. Make sure all his vaccinations are up to date; shot records with you. Health certifications are required for airline travel.  To keep your dog healthy as you travel, bring along a supply of his regular food and some local, or bottled, water. Be sure to bring any medications he needs.

A crate is an excellent way to keep your dog safe in the car, and is required for airline travel. It can also keep your pet from getting into trouble in a hotel or at your host’s home. Crates are available from most pet supply stores. Look for these features when purchasing:

• Large enough to allow the dog to stand, turn and lie down.
• Strong, with handles and grips, and free of interior protrusions.
• Leak-proof bottom covered with absorbent material.
• Ventilation on opposing sides, with exterior rims or knobs to prevent blocked airflow.
• “Live Animal” label, arrows upright, with owner’s name, address and phone number.
• Stock the crate with a comfortable mat, your dog’s favorite toy, and a water bottle, and your dog is ready to go.

In the event that your dog gets away from you on your trip, you can increase the chances of recovery by making sure he can be properly identified.  Make sure your dog has a sturdy leash and collar. The collar should have identification tags with the dog’s name, your name, and your home phone number, as well as proof of rabies shots.  Consider a permanent form of identification, such as a microchip and bring a recent picture of your dog along with you.

If you are traveling by car, here are some helpful tips to keep in mind:

• Get your dog used to the car by letting him sit in it with you without leaving the driveway, and then going for short rides.
• Avoid car sickness by letting your dog travel on an empty stomach. However, make sure he has plenty of water at all times.
• Keep the car well-ventilated. If the dog is in a crate, make sure that fresh air can flow into the crate.
• Do not let your dog ride with his head sticking out of an open window. This can lead to eye injuries.
• Never let your dog ride in the back of an open truck. This is extremely dangerous and can lead to severe injuries or death.
• Stop frequently for exercise and potty breaks. Be sure to clean up after your dog.
• Car rides are boring for everyone, so instruct your children not to tease or annoy the dog in the car.
• Never, ever leave your dog unattended in a closed vehicle, particularly in the summer. See Summer Safety Tips for more information. If you must leave the car, designate a member of the family to stay with the dog.

If you are traveling by plane, here are some helpful tips to keep in mind:

• Each airline has its own set of rules for canine air travel. You should call for information and make arrangements well in advance of your trip.
• All airlines require health certifications and proof of vaccinations.
• Some airlines will not transport animals when it is extremely hot or cold.
• Dogs must be in an airline-approved crate when transported as cargo. Small dogs may ride under the seat in a crate or carrier.

If you plan to travel with your dog by train or bus, you may be disappointed. Dogs are not permitted on Amtrak trains or on buses operated by Greyhound and other interstate bus companies. (Service dogs are permitted.) Local rail and bus companies have their own policies.

You may fare better if you’re taking a cruise. The QE2 luxury cruiser, which sails from New York to England/France, provides special lodging and free meals for your dog. However, you should check the policies of the cruise line or ship you will be traveling on before making plans to take your dog on a cruise with you.

Before you set out to your vacation destination, find out in advance which hotels or motels at your destination or on your route allow dogs. Many do not, or have size or breed restrictions.  If your dog is allowed to stay at a hotel, respect other guests, staff and the property and keep your dog as quiet as possible.  Do not leave the dog unattended. Many dogs will bark or destroy property if left alone in a strange place.  It is important to ask the management where you should walk your dog, and pick up after him, making sure not to not leave any mess behind.  Remember that one bad experience with a dog guest may prompt the hotel management to refuse to allow any dogs. Be considerate of others and leave your room and the grounds in good condition.

Feeding Your Older Cat

Clear the Air would like to share some helpful tips on feeding your older cat.

Usually once cats reach age seven, they begin to show visible age-related changes.  There are metabolic, immunologic and body composition changes, too. Some of these are unavoidable. Others can be managed with diet.

The following are some tips to keep your older cat on a healthy diet:

Once your cat reaches seven years of age, start your cat on a senior diet.

The main objectives in the feeding an older cat should be to maintain health and optimum body weight, slow or prevent the development of chronic disease, and minimize or improve clinical signs of diseases that may already be present.

As a cat ages, health issues may arise, including:
– deterioration of skin and coat
– loss of muscle mass
– more frequent intestinal problems
– arthritis
– obesity
– dental problems
– decreased ability to fight off infection

Older cats have been shown to progressively put on body fat in spite of consuming fewer calories. This change in body composition is inevitable and may be aggravated by either reduced energy expenditure or a change in metabolic rate. Either way, it is important to feed a diet with a lower caloric density to avoid weight gain, but with a normal protein level to help maintain muscle mass.

Talk to your veterinarian about increasing your senior cat’s vitamin E intake. Antibody response decreases as cats age. Increasing the intake of vitamin E in cats older than seven years of age can increase their antibody levels back to those seen in younger cats!

Antioxidants such as vitamin E and beta-carotene help eliminate free radical particles that can damage body tissues and cause signs of aging. Senior diets for cats should contain higher levels of these antioxidant compounds. Antioxidants can also increase the effectiveness of the immune system in senior cats.

Routine care for geriatric pets should involve a consistent daily routine and periodic veterinary examinations to assess the presence or progress of chronic disease. Stressful situations and abrupt changes in daily routines should be avoided. If a drastic change must be made to an older pet’s routine, try to minimize stress and to realize the change in a gradual manner.

Your Puppy and House Training

Get Your Puppy House Trained!

If you just got a puppy, it is now time to learn how to potty train him.  If you have accidents, you do not want your puppy to go back to that spot to urinate again.  Use Clear the Air’s Carpet and Furniture Odor Eliminator to completely eliminate the odors.

We found this article from ASPCA’s website and thought there was a lot of valuable information on potty-training your puppy.

Puppies need to be house trained in order to understand that it’s not okay to eliminate in your house. House training is a simple process, but one that must be carried out positively (without punishment that scares the puppy) and consistently, following two main guidelines: 1) prevent indoor accidents through confinement and close supervision, and 2) take the puppy outside on a frequent and regular schedule and reward him for eliminating where you want him to go. House soiling can occur in any location in the home but sometimes pet parents will notice that their puppy soils more in certain locations, such as infrequently used rooms or on a specific kind of surface. Very young pups (under 12 weeks old) don’t have complete bladder control and might not be able to hold it very long. Older puppies who have had accidents might not have been house trained completely.

Why Puppies You Thought Were Housetrained Might Have Accidents

Too Young to Be Fully House Trained – Some puppies, especially those under 12 weeks of age, haven’t developed bladder or bowel control yet.

Incomplete House Training – Many puppies simply haven’t learned where to eliminate—or they haven’t learned a way to tell their people when they need to go out. Some puppies house soil only under specific conditions. For example, your puppy may soil when he’s home alone for long periods of time, first thing in the morning, sometime during the night, only when you’re not watching or only in infrequently used rooms. Other puppies may urinate or defecate whenever they feel the need to go.

Breakdown in House Training – Sometimes puppies who seem to be house trained at one point regress and start soiling in the house again.

Other Reasons Your Puppy Might House Soil

Urine Marking – If your puppy is over three months of age and urinates small amounts on vertical surfaces, he may be urine marking. Young dogs engaging in this behavior often raise their hind legs when urinating.

Separation Anxiety – If your puppy only soils when he’s left alone in your home, even for short periods of time, he may have separation anxiety. If this is the case, you may notice that he appears nervous or upset right before you leave him by himself or after you’ve left (if you can observe him while he’s alone).

Submissive/Excitement Urination – Your puppy may have a submissive/excitement urination problem if he only urinates during greetings, play, physical contact, scolding or punishment. If this is the case, you may notice your puppy displaying submissive postures during interactions. He may cringe or cower, roll over on his belly, tuck or lower his tail, duck his head, avert his eyes, flatten his ears or all of the above.

Medical Causes for House Soiling – It’s always a good idea to visit your puppy’s veterinarian to rule out medical causes for house soiling. Some common medical reasons for inappropriate urination and defecation follow.

Urinary Tract Infection (UTI) – Puppies with urinary tract infections usually urinate frequently and in small amounts. They may also lick their genital areas more than usual.

Gastrointestinal Upset – If your puppy was house trained but now defecates loose stools or diarrhea in your house, he may have gastrointestinal upset for some reason.

Change in Diet – If you’ve recently changed the amount or type of food you give your puppy, he may develop a house soiling problem. Often, after a diet change, a puppy will defecate loose stools or diarrhea. He may also need to eliminate more frequently or on a different schedule than before the diet change.

Miscellaneous Medical Causes – Other medical causes include abnormalities of the genitalia that cause incontinence (loss of bladder control), various diseases that cause frequent elimination and medications that cause frequent elimination.

How to House Train Your Puppy

House training is accomplished by rewarding your puppy for eliminating where you want him to go (outside) AND by preventing him from urinating or defecating in unacceptable places (inside the house). You should keep crating and confinement to a minimum, but some amount of restriction is usually necessary for your puppy to learn to “hold it.”

How Long It Will Take

Some puppies learn where and where not to eliminate at a very young age, while others take longer to understand. Most puppies can be reasonably house trained by four to six months of age. However, some puppies are not 100% reliable until they are eight to twelve months of age. Some puppies seem to catch on early but then regress. This is normal. Keep in mind that it may take a while for your puppy to develop bowel and bladder control. He may be mentally capable of learning to eliminate outdoors instead of inside, but he may not yet be physically capable of controlling his body.

How Often Your Puppy Needs to Go Out

All puppies are different, but a puppy can usually only hold his waste for the same number of hours as his age in months. (In other words, a four-month-old pup should not be left alone for more than four consecutive hours without an opportunity to go outside.) He can last longer at night, however, since he’s inactive (just like we can). By the time your pup is about four months old, he should be able to make it through the night without going outside.

House Training Steps

1. Keep your puppy on a consistent daily feeding schedule and remove food between meals.
2. Take the puppy outside on a consistent schedule. Puppies should be taken out every hour, as well as shortly after meals, play and naps. All puppies should go out first thing in the morning, last thing at night and before being confined or left alone.
3. In between these outings, know where your puppy is at all times. You need to watch for early signs that he needs to eliminate so that you can anticipate and prevent accidents from happening. These signs include pacing, whining, circling, sniffing or leaving the room. If you see any of these, take your puppy outside as quickly as possible. Not all puppies learn to let their caretakers know that they need to go outside by barking or scratching at the door. Some will pace a bit and then just eliminate inside. So watch your puppy carefully.
4. If you can’t watch your puppy, he must be confined to a crate or a small room with the door closed or blocked with a baby gate. Alternatively, you can tether him to you by a leash that does not give him much leeway around you (about a six-foot leash). Gradually, over days or weeks, give your puppy more freedom, starting with freedom a small area, like the kitchen, and gradually increasing it to larger areas, or multiple rooms, in your home. If he eliminates outside, give him some free time in the house (about 15 to 20 minutes to start), and then put him back in his crate or small room. If all goes well, gradually increase the amount of time he can spend out of confinement.
5. Accompany your puppy outside and reward him whenever he eliminates outdoors with praise, treats, play or a walk. It’s best to take your puppy to the same place each time because the smells often prompt puppies to eliminate. Some puppies will eliminate early on in a walk. Others need to move about and play for a bit first.
6. If you catch your puppy in the act of eliminating inside, clap sharply twice, just enough to startle but not scare him. (If your puppy seems upset or scared by your clapping, clap a little softer the next time you catch him in the act.) When startled, the puppy should stop in mid-stream. Immediately run with him outside, encouraging him to come with you the whole way. (If necessary, take your puppy gently by the collar to run him outside.) Allow your pup to finish eliminating outside, and then reward him with happy praise and a small treat. If he has nothing to eliminate when he gets outside, don’t worry. Just try to be more watchful of him in the house in the future. If your puppy has an accident but you don’t catch him in the act and only find the accident afterward, do nothing to your pup. He cannot connect any punishment with something he did hours or even minutes ago.

What NOT to Do

• Do not rub your puppy’s nose in his waste.
• Do not scold your dog for eliminating indoors. Instead, if you catch him in the act, make a noise to startle him and stop him from urinating or defecating. Then immediately show your dog where you want him to go by running with him outside, waiting until he goes, and then praising and rewarding him.
• Do not physically punish your puppy for accidents (hitting with newspaper, spanking, etc.). Realize that if your puppy has accidents in the house, you failed to adequately supervise him, you did not take him outside frequently enough, or you ignored or were unaware of his signals that he needed to go outside.
• Do not confine your puppy to a small area for hours each day, without doing anything else to correct the problem.
• Do not crate your puppy if he’s soiling in the crate.
• If your puppy enjoys being outside, don’t bring him inside right after he eliminates or he may learn to “hold it” so that he can stay outside longer.

For any accidents your puppy makes in the house, make sure to clean the area and sprinkle Clear the Air’s Carpet and Furniture Odor Eliminator over the soiled area.  Let sit for 24-48 hours and vacuum it up.  The odor should be completely eliminated and your pet will no longer associate that area with eliminating.