Tick Removal For Your Pets

Removing ticks from your pets – what you need to know!

Ewe, it is flea and tick season!  Keep fleas and ticks away with our helpful tips.

Need help on removing those pesky ticks your dog and cat pick up from outside?  Check out ASPCA’s article:

So, you’ve found a tick on your pet—how do you deal with it? While it’s important to get these little suckers off quickly, ASPCA veterinarians advise that you stay calm and don’t rush it. Moving too fast when removing a tick could potentially create more problems, both for your pet and for you.

While the following instructions employ tweezers, be aware that there are some very good products on the market designed specifically for safe tick removal. If you live in a tick-heavy area or are taking your pets to a place where they are likely to get ticks, it’s a good idea to buy one of these tools and have it on hand. They generally work better than tweezers at getting out the whole tick, and are relatively inexpensive.

Step-by-Step Tick Removal Instructions

Step 1—Prepare its Final Resting Place – Throwing a tick in the trash or flushing it down the toilet will not kill it, and it’s actually best to hold on to it for awhile for veterinary testing in case your pet falls ill from the bite. Be ready with somewhere to put the tick after you’ve removed it—the best option is a screw-top jar containing some rubbing alcohol.

Step 2—Don’t Bare-Hand It – Put on latex or rubber gloves so you’ll never have direct contact with the tick or your pet’s bite area. Ticks can carry infective agents that may enter your bloodstream through breaks in your skin or through mucous membranes (if you touch your eyes, nostrils or mouth).

Step 3—Grab a Partner – You don’t want your pet squirming away before you’re finished, so if possible, have a helper on hand to distract, soothe or hold her still.

Step 4—The Removal – Treat the bite area with rubbing alcohol and, using a pair of tweezers, grasp the tick as close to the animal’s skin as possible. Pull straight upwards with steady, even pressure. Place the tick in your jar.

• Do not twist or jerk the tick! This may leave the mouth-parts embedded in your pet, or cause the tick to regurgitate infective fluids.
• Do not squeeze or crush the body of the tick, because its fluids (saliva and gut contents) may contain infective organisms.

Step 5—All that Remains – Sometimes, in spite of doing everything right, a tick’s mouth-parts will get left behind in your pet’s skin. If the area doesn’t appear red or inflamed, the best thing to do is to disinfect it and not to try to take the mouth-parts out. A warm compress to the area might help the body expel them, but do not go at it with tweezers.

Step 6—Clean Up – Thoroughly disinfect the bite site and wash your hands with soap and water (even though you were wearing gloves). Sterilize your tweezers with alcohol or by carefully running them over a flame.

Step 7—Keep Watch – Over the next few weeks, closely monitor the bite area for any signs of localized infection. If the area is already red and inflamed, or becomes so later, please bring your pet—and your jarred tick—to your veterinarian for evaluation.

From: http://www.aspca.org/pet-care/pet-care-tips/how-to-remove-a-tick-from-your-pet.aspx

Dog Care Tips

If you are new to dog ownership or have had dogs all your life, there are some crucial tips which every dog owner needs to be aware of and sometimes reminded of.

While dogs are fun and loyal creatures, they can also be complex. It takes a fair amount of understanding to care for dogs—one that requires a lot more effort than just feeding them every day.  Check out our helpful dog care tips:

• Stay away from unhealthy additives: During your search, you’ll find lots of pet products that have been manufactured out of low quality ingredients and enhanced with artificial sweeteners. Avoid such option. Before you buy a product, go through the nutritional label to find out exactly what it contains.  Search for foods that are manufactured from healthy protein sources such as chicken or beef. Avoid foods that contain high percentages of bone meal.

• Don’t ignore fleas or ticks: Combined, fleas and ticks form a larger percentage of most canine health problems. Dogs that play outdoors are highly susceptible to these. Pay attention to your dog. If left untreated, ticks can go on to cause severe conditions such as anemia. Your dog may also spread the fleas and ticks to other members of the home.

• Give your dog somewhere cool to relax: Don’t just assign any resting place for your dog. Pick a spot in your home where your dog will get enough protection from the heat. Dogs are more prone to heat strokes than humans. Ensure that your dog gets enough water during the day, especially during the warmer months. Design a regular feeding schedule. This will help when the dog is being housebroken.

• Stock up on pet supplies and equipment: For the best living experience, take the time to get everything that you might need. For instance, it’s always advisable that you get your dog a collar. It doesn’t have to be very stylish but it should at least be comfortable. You can also get feeding bowls and pet wash supplies to make grooming easier.

It’s a “ruff” life…Part 2 of Why your dog barks

Wonder why your dog barks for certain reasons?

Clear the Air would like to share some helpful tips on learning about the behavior of your dog and why he barks.  Enjoy part 2 of our blog – taken from The San Diego Humane Society.

Request Barking

When they want something, dogs will experiment with various behaviors to see if any of them work. They quickly figure out that barking works with their owners. If you don’t like barking, stop rewarding it with attention, door-opening services, releasing from crates etc. Period. No buts.

Rather than the dog telling you when to take him out, take him out at regular intervals, making sure none of them are preceded by barking. Don’t let a barking dog out of a crate until he’s quiet. Ignore dogs who bark at you. Keep in mind that if you have been rewarding it for a while, the barking will get worse before it goes into extinction. You’re changing the rules and the dog will be frustrated at first. Whatever you do, don’t crack and reward the WORSE version of the barking!

Above all, start noticing the dog when he’s quiet. Teach him that there are payoffs for lying quietly, chewing on a chew-toy and refraining from barking.

Barking When Alone

This is a common form of request barking: the dog is requesting that you come back. There is also often some anxiety involved. When you get a new dog or puppy, set a good precedent right away. Don’t smother him with your constant presence and attention. Come and go a lot and never go to him when he’s vocalizing. Wait until he’s quiet for at least 30 seconds so you don’t risk rewarding the noise making. If your dog already has a habit, you must start a multi-pronged assault:

1) When you’re at home, don’t let him shadow you around: lock him in various rooms away from you to practice “semi-absences.” Reprimand or ignore any barking (ignoring is actually a more powerful tool). If you choose to reprimand it, burst through the door, scold the dog and then immediately disappear again, closing the door behind you. Remember that he’s barking to get you back: with some dogs, a reprimand is better than nothing so you may be rewarding him…

2) Practice loads of brief absences every day. Go out and come back in after 2 or 3 seconds over and over to get the dog desensitized to your departures. Do it in a matter of fact way, more or less ignoring the dog whatever he does. Then do outings of 10 seconds, 30, a minute, 10 minutes etc. Mix it up. Dogs who are anxious need to learn that your departure doesn’t usually mean a traumatically long period of isolation. Keep all your departures and arrival greetings low key. Never enter when the dog is barking. Wait for a lull of at least 30 seconds.

3) Dogs are a highly social species. They don’t cope well with prolonged isolation. Consider a second dog, daycare or dog-walker at lunchtime if you work all day.

4) Increase physical and mental stimulation. In a natural environment, a lot of your dog’s energy would be spent acquiring his food. He would have to find prey, run it down, hang onto and kill it and then rip it apart to eat it. He’d have to attempt several finds and run-downs before he successfully made a kill. That’s work! Tire him out more before long absences. Walks don’t cut it as exercise for dogs. Most dogs like getting out and checking out the environment but it’s not exercise. Exercise means exertion. Start working your dog out with high-intensity games like ball-fetch, Frisbee, tug-of-war, hide & seek, free-play with other dogs etc.

Make him work to acquire his food. Hide it around the house, scatter it in the grass in the backyard, make him extract it from the hollow inside of a bone or Kong toy (which you also hide), make him earn it piece by piece for obedience exercises or tricks, make him solve problems. Your imagination is the limit. Make your absences predict that his meal is hidden around the house so that he has to get busy when you leave if he wants to eat. Dogs are programmed to work for their food. It’s no wonder there are so many problems related to under stimulation.

5) Get him more focused on toys. When you play with him, incorporate toys. Hold chewies for him. Teach him to find a toy that you’ve hidden in the room and then celebrate his find with tug of war or fetch. Teach him his toys by name. Ask him to bring you one when you come home. Don’t greet him until he’s brought it.

Then have a vigorous game of fetch. Leave him stuffed chew toys during absences: fill hollow bones or Kongs with cheese, peanut butter, cookies or combos.

If your dog is anxious to the point of panic attacks, he has separation anxiety and need formal desensitization and/or medication. Contact a competent trainer.

Spooky Barking

In this case, it is important to get at the underlying under socialization. Socialize puppies extensively to as wide a variety of people and dogs as possible. You cannot overdo it. Expose them to plenty of places, experiences, sights & sounds and make it all fun with praise, games & treats. Find and attend a good puppy class.

If you missed the boat socializing your puppy, you’ll have to do remedial work with your adolescent or adult.

Whatever it is that your dog is spooky about must now become associated with lunch. This is how under socialized dogs work for their food. If he doesn’t like strangers, meals need to fed bit by bit around strangers until he improves. It takes a while to re-socialize adults so stick with it.

Boredom Barking

If you don’t have time for a dog, don’t get a dog. Dogs are not space-intensive, they are time-intensive. If you have an outside dog, train him to be an inside dog. There is no quick fix here: you must meet your dog’s basic needs for stimulation, exercise and companionship.

Why Your Dog Barks – Part 1

If you have a dog, most likely there have been times he or she barks excessively for a reason you are not sure of.

Clear the Air would like to share some helpful tips on learning about the behavior of your dog and why he barks.  This will be a two part blog touching on various reasons your dog barks.

This article was taken from the San Diego Humane Society.

Dogs bark for a variety of reasons:

1) Watchdog Barking serves the dual purpose of alerting pack members that there is an intruder and warning the intruder that they have been noticed.

2) Request Barking is the dog’s way of communicating to the owner that he would like something NOW.

Typical requests are “open the door NOW,” “pay attention to me NOW,” “let me out of here NOW,” “I wanna see that dog NOW” etc.

3) Spooky Barking occurs when the dog is uncomfortable about something in the environment and barks to say “I’m dangerous! Don’t come any closer!”

4) Boredom Barking can result when the dog’s daily needs for exercise and social stimulation are not met. The dog has gone essentially mad from boredom.

Controlling Excessive Barking:

Watchdog Barking

The standby technique is to teach the dog a competing response – such as fetching a certain toy or doing a down-stay on a mat (which cuts barking in many dogs) for tasty food rewards. Practice out of doorbell or “intruder” contexts first and then incorporate the game or command into real-life situations. The dog will need some coaching and prompting the first few times in the real-life situation so prepare to budget some time for that. Even better, set it up with a cohort to play “visitor,” so you can focus on the dog rather than being forced to attend to the person at the door. When the dog is more advanced, you can also incorporate penalties. If he gets it right, he is rewarded as usual. If he barks, he goes into the penalty box – a back room or crate that is far from the action.

Another technique – high effort but great result – is to teach the dog the meaning of the words “bark” and “quiet” (or any word you want to use as an “off” switch). First, you have to teach the dog to bark and quiet on command as a trick. To elicit the barking so that you can practice, you must use something you know makes the dog bark, like the doorbell or a weird noise outside (you may need a helper). Arrange the following sequence:

1) your command “bark!”

2) the doorbell or other prom

3) barking from the dog

4) praise from you: “good bark!”

5) your command “quiet”

6) showing him the treat

7) his (eventual) distraction from barking by the treat

8) 3-5 seconds of quiet during which you praise “gooo-oood quiet”

9) giving him the treat after 3-5 seconds of perfect quiet

10) repeat, gradually lengthening the duration of the “quiet” up to a minute

Do it over and over until the dog knows the game. He knows the game when he barks on the command and doesn’t need the doorbell anymore, and he quiets on the first quiet command without having to be shown the treat (you still give him one from your pocket, you just don’t show it anymore). If ever he interrupts a quiet with even one bark, say “oh! too bad” and start counting the quiet time from the beginning again. Barking during the quiet time will cost him his treat.

You must be able to yo-yo the dog back and forth reliably between bark and quiet before you try out your “quiet” command in real situations. The most common mistake is trying to use the quiet command before it’s well-enough conditioned in training sessions. Think of quiet on command as a muscle you’re making stronger.

When you can turn barking on and off anytime, anyplace as a trick, you may now start commanding quiet after a few barks when your dog barks on his own in real-life situations. The first few times the dog will respond poorly to the command. Don’t give up. Have really good treats handy. Go back to showing him the treat up front the first few times. Practice makes perfect.

If your dog “goes off” for the smallest sounds and changes in the environment, it would help the cause to get him better habituated. Take him out more, invite people and dogs over to socialize, expose him to a wider range of sights and sounds.

Tick Removal for your Pets

Removing ticks from your pets.

Ewe, it is flea and tick season!  Need help on removing those pesky ticks your dog and cat pick up from outside?  Check out ASPCA’s article:

So, you’ve found a tick on your pet—how do you deal with it? While it’s important to get these little suckers off quickly, ASPCA veterinarians advise that you stay calm and don’t rush it. Moving too fast when removing a tick could potentially create more problems, both for your pet and for you.

While the following instructions employ tweezers, be aware that there are some very good products on the market designed specifically for safe tick removal. If you live in a tick-heavy area or are taking your pets to a place where they are likely to get ticks, it’s a good idea to buy one of these tools and have it on hand. They generally work better than tweezers at getting out the whole tick, and are relatively inexpensive.

Step-by-Step Tick Removal Instructions

Step 1—Prepare its Final Resting Place – Throwing a tick in the trash or flushing it down the toilet will not kill it, and it’s actually best to hold on to it for awhile for veterinary testing in case your pet falls ill from the bite. Be ready with somewhere to put the tick after you’ve removed it—the best option is a screw-top jar containing some rubbing alcohol.

Step 2—Don’t Bare-Hand It – Put on latex or rubber gloves so you’ll never have direct contact with the tick or your pet’s bite area. Ticks can carry infective agents that may enter your bloodstream through breaks in your skin or through mucous membranes (if you touch your eyes, nostrils or mouth).

Step 3—Grab a Partner – You don’t want your pet squirming away before you’re finished, so if possible, have a helper on hand to distract, soothe or hold her still.

Step 4—The Removal – Treat the bite area with rubbing alcohol and, using a pair of tweezers, grasp the tick as close to the animal’s skin as possible. Pull straight upwards with steady, even pressure. Place the tick in your jar.

• Do not twist or jerk the tick! This may leave the mouth-parts embedded in your pet, or cause the tick to regurgitate infective fluids.
• Do not squeeze or crush the body of the tick, because its fluids (saliva and gut contents) may contain infective organisms.

Step 5—All that Remains – Sometimes, in spite of doing everything right, a tick’s mouth-parts will get left behind in your pet’s skin. If the area doesn’t appear red or inflamed, the best thing to do is to disinfect it and not to try to take the mouth-parts out. A warm compress to the area might help the body expel them, but do not go at it with tweezers.

Step 6—Clean Up – Thoroughly disinfect the bite site and wash your hands with soap and water (even though you were wearing gloves). Sterilize your tweezers with alcohol or by carefully running them over a flame.

Step 7—Keep Watch – Over the next few weeks, closely monitor the bite area for any signs of localized infection. If the area is already red and inflamed, or becomes so later, please bring your pet—and your jarred tick—to your veterinarian for evaluation.

From: http://www.aspca.org/pet-care/pet-care-tips/how-to-remove-a-tick-from-your-pet.aspx

Dog and Cats and Their Facts

Fun facts about dogs, cats – and stars

Greetings From Down Under

Greetings from Australia!  We are attending the FAOPMA (Federation of Asian and Oceania Pest Manager Associations) Show in Adelaide Australia.  We are here to support our Australian and Asian distributors and to educate Pest Control Operators about Earth Care Odor Eliminators.

We also get to enjoy this beautiful country and wonderful people who make us feel so welcome.

Clear the Air is now in over 20 countries world wide!  Thanks to the Pest Control Industry, we have been able to grow our business tremendously and it has been because of attending these pest control shows.

We are “made in the USA and sold in China”!

Check out where we’re at:

AGRICULTURAL SUPPLY

760 737-2282

1435 Simpson Way

Escondido, CA 92029

Bag Stock #: Earth Care Bag

States covered: Southern California

BUG OFF PEST CONTROL CENTER

212 781-2304

1085 Saint Nicolas Ave.

New York, NY 10023

Bag Stock #: Earth Care Bag

States Covered: NY, NJ

WINFIELD (Formerly ESTES INC)

800 562-8123

1925 John Carpenter Fwy, Suite 525

Irving, TX 75063

Bag Stock #: 142601

States Covered: TX, AR, OK, CO, NE, SD

EHRICH DISTRIBUTION (RENTOKIL USA)

888 225-6080

500 Spring Ridge Drive

Wyomissing, PA 19610

Bag Stock #: 164533

Granules – 21 oz canister Stock #: 164532

States Covered: PA, MD, VA, NC

FORSHAW DISTRIBUTION704 372 6790650 State StreetCharlotte, NC 28208Odor Remover Bag Stock #: EAR01230States Covered:FL,GA,OH,NC,TN
GeoTech SUPPLY COMPANY LLC800 589 0541 555 North Guild AveLodi, CA 95240Bag Stock # B193892Granules BucketStates Covered:� CA,OR,WA,NV

JOHN DEERE LANDSCAPES (TURFCARE SUPPLY)

Phone: 770 277-4877

At participating locations in the U.S.A.

Bag Stock #: 091193

Granules 21 oz canister Stock # 091195

Bucket 9 lb Stock # 091194

OLDHAM CHEMICAL CO.

706 855-6832

3701 New Getwell Road

Memphis, TN 38118

Bag Stock #:450-020-1

States Covered: LA, AL, MS, TN, AR, KY, GA, MO

PRECISION CHEMICALS

(225) 752-4565

11114 CEDAR PARK AVE, SUITE A

BATON ROUGE, LA 70809

States Covered: LA, AR, MS, AL

RESIDEX

800 998-2847

570 SOUTH AVENUE EAST

CRANFORD, NJ 07016

Bag Stock #: EARTB193892

States Covered: ALL EASTERN STATES

/

RHODES CHEMICAL Co.

800 255 0051

1129 Merriam Lane

Kansas City KS 66103

Bag Stock # ECP193892

States Covered:� North Central USA

TARGET SPECIALTY PRODUCTS� (and B&G CHEMICALS)

562 802-2238

15415 Marquardt Avenue

Santa Fe Springs, CA 90670

Bag Stock #: 2234001

Granules – 14 oz canister Stock #: 2234002

Granules 9 pound Bucket Stock #: 2234009

States Covered: AZ, CA, NV, OR

UNIVAR USA (& SMCPOH)

800 888-4897

Bag Stock #: 641915

Granules – 14 oz canister Stock #: 641916

Granules-9 pound Bucket Stock #: 641917

States Covered: ALL STATES & CARRIBEAN

WAXIE SANITARY SUPPLY

Phone: 858 292-8111

9353 Waxie Way

San Diego, CA 92123-1012

Bag Stock # 165300

States covered: CA

WCS – WILDLIFE CONTROL SUPPLIES

860 844-0101

www.wildlifecontrolsupplies.com

17 Connecticut South Drive

East Grandby, CT 06026

Bag Stock # B193892

Skunk Stock # SKUNKC

Bucket Stock # BU9C

States covered: ALL

AUSTRALIA & NEW ZEALAND

GARRARDS PESTICIDES

(073) 881-1693

32 Kenworth Place

Brendale, QLD 45005

Bag Stock #: ODOUR/BAG

Contact:Craig Warnes craig@garrards.com.au

Serves: Australia, New Zealand

GLOBE AUSTRALIA PTY

Phone: (02) 87113 5555

Fax: (02) 8713 5550

87 Allingham Street

Condell Park, NSW 2200

Australia

Bag Stock #

Granules 14 oz canister Stock# PAT156

Granules 9 lb. bucket Stock# PAT155

Email: jgreen@globeaustralia.com.au

RURAL CONTROL

Tel: +61 2 9450 3555

Fax: +61 2 9450 3535

14 Narabang Way, Suite 16

Belrose, NSW 2085

Australia

Granules 28 oz canister Stock# PETODOR28OZ

AGSERV PTY LTD

Tel: 02 9647 2111

Fax:� 02 9648 2262

61105 Derby St.

Silverwater, NSW 2128

Australia

email:� eris@agservaustralia.com

Bags

CANADA

AGRIUM (NU-GRO LTD)

519 757-0077

10 Craig Street

Brantford, ON N3R7J1

Bag Stock #: 5540310

Granules – 9 pound Bucket Stock #: 5540320

Providences covered: ALL

DITCHLING CORPORATION LTD

416 264-3497

2244 Kingston Road

Scarborough, ON M1N 1T9

Bag Stock #: 90011

Granules – 9 pound pail Stock #:91091

GARDEX CHEMICALS – ONTARIO

416 675-1638

7 MERIDIAN ROAD

ETOBICOKE, ON M9W 4Z6

Bag Stock #: 314072

Granules 14 oz canister Stock# 314066

GARDEX CHEMICALS – QUEBEC

514 335-1686

2982 Halpern St.

Ville St. Laurent, Quebec H4S 1R2

Bag Stock #: 314072

Granules 14 oz canister Stock# 314066

GARDEX CHEMICALS – BC

604 421-6445

3123 Thunderbird Crescent

Burnaby, BC V5A 3G1

Bag Stock #: 314072

Granules 14 oz canister Stock# 314066

INTEGRATED PEST SUPPLIES, LTD

604 520-9900

360 EDWORTHY WAY, UNIT 8

NEW WESTMINSTER, BC V3L 5T8

STOCK#:EARTH CARE BAG

UNIVAR CANADA

416 908 2745

5840 Falbourne Street

Mississauga, ON L5R 4B5

Odor Remover Bag Stock #: 781563

CENTRAL AMERICA

TROLEX

Tel:� 503 2534 5555

Calle Gerardo Barrios #1722

Colonia Cucumacayan

San Salvador

El Salvador, Guatamala, & Hondouras

Contact:� Salvador Parras

email:� Salvador.parras@trolex.com.SV

UNIVAR MEXICO

555 515-8893

Benjamin Gomez

Locations throughout Mexico

Bag Stock #: 641915

UNITED KINGDOM, IRELAND, EUROPE, & MIDDLE EAST

CAPITAL PEST CONTROL

Tel:� ++356 21 41059

Fax:� ++ 356 21 422416

13, Triq L-Iskultur

Qomi

Malta Orm 3582

Bags, Cansiters, Buckets

JONES & SON PEST CONTROL SUPPLIES

+01626 835055

UNIT 4, SABRE BLDGS

SABRE CLOSE

HEALTHFIELD INDUSTRIAL ESTATE

NEWTON ABBOT TQ12 6TW

UNITED KINGDOM

Email: daveb@jonesandson.co.uk

Serves: United Kingdom

BAG STOCK#: RODE0085 Professional Odour Remover

PROTECTA S.A.

39 Ag. Paviou str

121 32 Peristeri, Greece

Tel:(+30) 210 85 42 220

Fax: (+30) 210 85 42 253

Web:www.protecta-health.gr

Email: mlekkos@protecta-health.gr

Serves:GREECE

ECOVAR

PO Box 212678

Dubai, UAE

Tel +971 4 328 5266

Fax +971 4 328 5377

Web www.ecoargroup.com

Email Hani@ecovargroup.com

Serves:UAE, SAUDI ARABIA

KILLGERM CHEMICALS LTD

Tel: +44 (0)1924 268400
Fax: +44 (0)1924 267874

113 WAKEFIELD ROAD

OSSETT, WEST YORKSHIRE WF5 AR

UNITED KINGDOM

Serves: UK, Ireland, Germany, Poland, Netherlands, Belgium, Spain, Portugal

BAG STOCK#: ODOURBAG

Email: peter.fielding@killgerm.com

PPS GmbH

Tel: 0 71 53/825 35-12

Fax: 07153/8 25 33-97

Max-Eyth-Strabe 13

Hochdorf D-73269

Serves: Germany, Switzerland

Email: hirschmeier@pps-vertrieb.de

Bags

SERVEM LIMITED (Maxboley, Duncormick, Co.,Wesford, Ireland)

Tel: 353 51 563530

Fax: 353 51 563531

Serves: UK, Ireland, Middle East

Bag Stock #: Earth Care Bag

Email: info@servemlimited.com.

PEST CONTROL PRODUCTS OOD

Tel:� (+359 2) 9451495

Store 1,2 Benjo Tsonev Str.

Kiv. Ievski

Sofia 1517

Bulgaria

Email:� Jordon.pcp@gmail.com

Bags, Canisters

AFRICA

PATHOGEN & ENVIRONMENTAL

27 33 346 2954

UNIT 10, HALSTEAD RD

M KONDENI,

PEITERMARITZBURG 3200

REPUBLIC OF SOUTH AFRICA

BAG STOCK #: 234

Email: reon@pathogensolutions.co.za

SAMBID NIGERIA LIMITED

234 1 79025 90

Email: info@sambidng.com

2, OWOEYE CLOSE

OGBA

LAGOS, NIGERIA

EARTH CARE BAGS

GRANULES, 9 POUND BUCKET

GRANULES, 14 OUNCE CANISTERS

ASIA

BENTZ JAZ CHINA

Tel:� 86-22-84269868

Fax:� 86-22 84269878

Tianjin Huihuazhuoyue

Technology Co Ltd

No. 168 Jiulong Street

Shuanggang Zone Jinnan 300350

China

Contact:� Liu Xing Gang

lxg@bentzjaz.com.cn

/

BENTZ JAZ SINGAPORE

Tel: 65-6841 2986

Fax 65- 6841 2026

48 Toh Guan Road East #06-139

Enterprise Hub 608586

Singapore

Contact:� Allan Heng

allanheng@bentzjaz.com .sg

Keep Your Pet Safe On The 4th Of July!

Happy 4th of July!

The 4th is a time to spend outdoors with family and friends enjoying the wonderful country we live in.  It is important to also keep in mind this can be a scary time for your pets and you should make sure your pet is safe and happy for the holiday.

Check out our 4th of July animal safety tips from the SPCA:

For many people, nothing beats lounging in the backyard on the Fourth of July with good friends and family—including the four-legged members of the household.

While it may seem like a great idea to reward Rover with scraps from the grill and bring him along to watch fireworks, in reality some festive foods and products can be potentially hazardous to your pets. The ASPCA Animal Poison Control Center offers the following tips:

• Never leave alcoholic drinks unattended where pets can reach them. Alcoholic beverages have the potential to poison pets. If ingested, the animal could become very intoxicated and weak, severely depressed or could go into a coma. Death from respiratory failure is also a possibility in severe cases.
• Do not apply any sunscreen or insect repellent product to your pet that is not labeled specifically for use on animals. Ingestion of sunscreen products can result in drooling, vomiting, diarrhea, excessive thirst and lethargy. The misuse of insect repellent that contains DEET can lead to neurological problems.
• Always keep matches and lighter fluid out of your pets’ reach. Certain types of matches contain chlorates, which could potentially damage blood cells and result in difficulty breathing—or even kidney disease in severe cases. Lighter fluid can be irritating to skin, and if ingested can produce gastrointestinal irritation and central nervous system depression. If lighter fluid is inhaled, aspiration pneumonia and breathing problems could develop.
• Keep your pets on their normal diet. Any change, even for one meal, can give your pets severe indigestion and diarrhea. This is particularly true for older animals who have more delicate digestive systems and nutritional requirements. And keep in mind that foods such as onions, chocolate, coffee, avocado, grapes & raisins, salt and yeast dough can all be potentially toxic to companion animals.
• Do not put glow jewelry on your pets, or allow them to play with it. While the luminescent substance contained in these products is not highly toxic, excessive drooling and gastrointestinal irritation could still result from ingestions, and intestinal blockage could occur from swallowing large pieces of the plastic containers.
• Keep citronella candles, insect coils and oil products out of reach. Ingestions can produce stomach irritation and possibly even central nervous system depression. If inhaled, the oils could cause aspiration pneumonia in pets.
• Never use fireworks around pets! While exposure to lit fireworks can potentially result in severe burns and/or trauma to the face and paws of curious pets, even unused fireworks can pose a danger. Many types contain potentially toxic substances, including potassium nitrate, arsenic and other heavy metals.
• Loud, crowded fireworks displays are no fun for pets, so please resist the urge to take them to Independence Day festivities. Instead, keep your little guys safe from the noise in a quiet, sheltered and escape-proof area at home.

Clear the Air Testimonials

Nothing is stronger than a positive testimonial about a business’s product.

We thought we’d compile a bunch of our testimonials so you can see the various odors Clear the Air will successfully eliminate!

Testimonial on Cat Urine Odor:

The product is amazing. I have tried so many other products and companies. I recently spent over $300 for someone to clean the carpets and use a secret “proprietary” formula that didn’t work. We have five cats, and if one is sick or has an accident, the others will quickly follow suit. Right now, with the product working on a couple of areas, there is no odor in the house. That is just amazing.

Thank you, Lynn

Testimonial on Doggie Odor in the basement:

No THANK YOU! This stuff is amazing! It saved me a bundle by not having to replace the basement carpet because of the strong “doggie” odor. Now it’s like there never was a dog in my new home. Thanks so much for making this available. I’ve already recmmended it to several friends.

DH

Testimonial on Dead Animal Odor:

We’ve spent the weekend trying to eliminate a “dead animal” smell from our upstairs bedroom in our three year old home (something got into the walls and died). My little doxie Milo alerted me to the problem and has been going crazy, sniffing and trying to show me that there is something in there.

We tried everything – vinegar, baking soda, ionizer, etc; nothing helped and the 90 plus degree heat today made it really awful! I was ready to call a disaster restoration service or critter control to address the odor.

In desperation, we searched the web and found Clear the Air information; we took your advice to go to Petco and make our own bags.  I made two bags from nylon hose and hung them around the closet and room. It’s only been a few hours and the difference is already unbelievable! Even Milo isn’t interested in sniffing it out anymore.  I anticipate that tomorrow will be even better.

What a great product – we will definitely use Clear the Air for  the garage, dog crate, etc. –hopefully we won’t run into any  more dead critters in our walls.

Sincerely, Lynne P. in Valencia, PA

Testimonial on Vacuum use:

LOVE your stuff! The pellets! A “bonus” is when you vaccuum them up, they stay in the vaccuum and I no longer smell the dog everytime I vaccuum! When dumping filter, I NEVER dump the pellets! Vacuuming is now not a “smelly” job. 🙂

Testimonial on Dead Rodent Odor:

I wanted to write to you to say how impressed I am with your products.

I had a terrible rodent infestation in an entire side of my house.  We had had a pest service come in to rid the house of pests, and I had also been mitigating all points of entry rodents were taking advantage of as they came out of the cold from the surrounding forest, and build nests for the winter.  I discovered the location of the nest by the odor of what smelled like old garbage coming from my 4 year old son’s bedroom wall and also an overpowering smell of urine coming from the basement play room directly underneath his room. After identifying the location of the smell, I completed demolition on a 20 foot by 15 foot area of the exterior wall of my house.  As I had suspected, there was significant rodent damage.

The condition of the wall was horrific: the insulation was all eaten away, and there were enormous rodent nests.  The worst part was there was so much feces and urine that combined with the contents of the nest, insects and bio-matter from decayed rodents, it had all permeated the sheathing, sheetrock, studs, joists, and concrete foundation from the second floor all the way to the sill plate and foundation.

After clearing out all the debris, and pounds of rodent feces and desiccated remains in the basement ceiling,  I spent an entire week, after removing all the exterior sheathing of the effected wall, and leaving the wall exposed to the outside drying out the studs, and cleaning it with industrial grade, scented disinfectant.  After replacing the sheathing that was rotting from the urine, and treating everything I could, multiple times, with disinfectant, I discovered that after sealing it all up I still had a phantom smell of the nest and urine.  It wasn’t as bad, but it was obviously the same smell, especially when there was an increase in humidity and the house was closed up, especially my son’s room.

Out of desperation I began searching the Internet for answers.  I came across Earth Care products when I typed in “how to get rid of dead rodent stink”, and was encouraged when I saw that your products were non-toxic, especially having three kids all 5 and under.

I bought three bags and placed them in the large basement room where the urine smell was the most overwhelming.  In just one day the smell had decreased by at least half.  The second day the small was almost impossible to discern.  By the third day there was no trace. It was incredible!  What was so amazing was that they didn’t need to come in contact with the effected area, just be near it.  That was key, since I had already sealed it up.

This product is amazing.  Despite having done my best to improve the air quality of my home, apart from burning the house down and starting over, I have a significant peace of mind knowing my children are not breathing that wretched air from a rodent’s nest. I am ordering more bags for the rest of the house.  Thank you, is all I can say.  I would be delighted to provide a testimony for the efficacy of your product.  I am a grateful and passionate client!

Jason

First Time Bird Owners

Are you a first time bird owner?

If you are new to bird ownership check out these helpful tips to ensure your new pet bird enjoys a happy and healthy new home.

Remember Clear the Air works wonders in your bird cage to eliminate any and all odors.  It is completely non-toxic and safe around childres and pets.  You can hang on of our Odor Eliminator Bags within the bird cage and sprinkle the Pet Odor Eliminator granules at the bottom of the cage.

Check out our tips:

• Feeding Your Bird – All seed diets are usually not recommended. Pet parrots crack seeds and eat the inside portion. The hulls often remain in the feeding dish giving the appearance that the bird has plenty of food when in reality there are no seeds left. Replace your bird’s food daily.
• Your Bird’s Diet – Seeds lack calcium, protein and many other vitamins and minerals which birds require. Seeds and nuts are also high in fat, which can lead to liver disease. While birds do eat seeds in the wild, they supplement their diet with many other food sources – nuts, berries, fruit, bugs, etc. Like humans, birds require a balanced diet to remain healthy. Birds enjoy veggies, fruits, pasta, sprouts, grains and even cooked meat such as chicken. Pellets are also a good source of nutrients. Many experts recommend pellets should be no more than 50% of the diet, while others feed a higher percentage. Seeds and nuts can be given as treats.
• Toxic Foods – Some foods, safe for humans, are lethal to birds. These include such items as avocados, chocolate, alcohol, caffeine, raw kidney and lima beans, cigarette smoke and pesticides in fruits and vegetables. 
• Don’t use Grit – Most birds don’t need grit and can even get an impacted crop from it. Grit is only recommended for birds who eat whole seeds – shell and all. Most birds crack their seeds, leaving the hulls and so have no need for the grit.
• Your Birds Home – Get a cage which gives your bird plenty of room to spread his wings, climb around, jump, swing and play. Be sure bars are not spaced so that a bird can wedge his head between them and get caught. Since birds tend to favor the higher parts of the cage, get one with the largest width and depth you can. Remember, your bird spends many hours in his cage, so the larger the better. Be sure to place cages away from drafty areas or doors to the outside. Temperature should not vary quickly or go below 55 degrees. 
• Get Your Bird A Perch – Birds spend a lot of time on their perches. They need perches of varying diameters to prevent foot problems such as arthritis and atrophy. Avoid perches made from dowels, which are uniform and don’t exercise feet. Never use sandpaper perches which harm the skin on a bird’s foot. Tree branches are very good for the feet and also help satisfy the chewing urge. A cement perch can help keep nails trimmed. Put a wooden perch high in the cage, which birds prefer. Make sure perches aren’t over bowls or other perches so droppings don’t hit them. Use multiple perches, but leave room for birds to move about in the cage. 
• Bird Feathers– Feathers grow back. If your bird accidentally loses some feathers, don’t panic. They’ll grow back. Bird also molt. It is their way of replacing worn feathers. Different species molt at different times and lose different amounts of feathers. Feathers grow back usually in 2-3 weeks. However, if you see bare patches of skin, this may denote a disease or feather plucking. In this case see your vet.
• Bird Veterinarian – Birds are very different than cats and dogs. Find an avian vet, one who knows about birds. Take your bird for a new bird exam to ensure it is healthy and to establish a baseline in case of illness. And develop a relationship with your vet. Find a vet or hospital that you can contact at night or weekends in an emergency. Birds should also have an annual exam to ensure they are healthy. Be sure to keep your vet’s phone number handy in case of emergency.
• Your Bird Needs Attention – Birds are very intelligent and social animals who require love and attention. Although the amount of attention varies by species, a bird who is ignored or bored can go insane, pluck his feathers or even mutilate himself. Keep your bird in an area where there is family activity, but be sure he has a quiet area to sleep in at night. Talk to your bird during the day. If you work, leave a radio, CD or TV on when you are gone. Take him out for play and cuddling every day. Be sure he has lots of toys and things to play with while in his cage. Give your bird lots of love and it will be returned tenfold.
• Communication – One of the most important aspects in creating and maintaining a successful relationship with your bird is the ability to understand his vocalizations and body language. Birds learn to communicate with us through sounds, behavior and actions. Using their body language and vocalizations they can “tell” us when they are happy, content, frightened, sick, hungry, tired, angry, or ready to be held and cuddled. It is of utmost importance that bird owners learn to interpret the meanings of their birds sounds and behaviors in order to successfully tame, train, and provide them with the very best of care.