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Dog Run or Lawn Odors?
Posted on May 15th, 2012Do you have a dog run or an area of the lawn that your dog frequents?
You also may have artificial grass which traps in the odor from urine or feces. Sometimes, even though the area is outside, the odor is very noticeable.
Clear the Air’s Lawn/Yard Odor Eliminator will eliminate the odors and make hanging out in your yard pleasant once again. This unique blend will absorb pet urine and feces odors from lawns and garden areas without chemical or fragrances. No need to worry about harming your lawn or garden as the mineral is completely non toxic and even acts as an excellent time-released nitrogen fertilizer.
This unique form of Earth Care Products Mineral can be sprinkled on your lawn and garden areas as needed to eliminate odors. Odors will be completely eliminated Granules are totally safe for all lawns and vegetation. Clear the Air does not have to come into contact with the odor producer; it will pull the odors from the entire area.
Clear The Air is made from an all natural mineral, is non toxic and biodegradable and safe for Planet Earth. It is also safe around children and pets even if eaten.
During the month of May, we are running a buy two get two free discount! If you buy two canisters of Lawn Odor Eliminator GET TWO MORE CANISTERS FREE! Offer good at our online store, click here. Must have 4 canisters in your cart and enter “lawn” into the redemption code and you will automatically get the price for two canisters off your bill!
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San Diego Humane Society Event – Spring Fling Doggie Cafe
Posted on May 10th, 2012Join the San Diego Humane Society’s Doggie Cafe Event this Friday evening!
Have fun socializing with other dog lovers and their dogs while you practice teaching your dog how to be calm around exciting distractions like people, other dogs and food! Dogs should be friendly and on-leash. One dog per human handler please. Dogs should be at least 4 months old and up-to-date on all vaccines, including rabies, to attend.
Beverages, sandwiches, salads, and more available for purchase. Complimentary desserts and dog treats provided. Behavior and Training specialists “on-paw” to answer training questions.
Spring-themed photos will be available for $5.
$10 suggested cover charge for the event. RSVP on-line at The San Diego Humane Society or by calling 619-299-7012 ext 2230.
Date: Friday, May 11, 2012
Time: 6:00 PM – 8:00 PM
Address:
572 Airport Road
Oceanside, CA 92058If you’d like to attend this event you can RSVP online, click here.
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Be Kind To Animals Week
Posted on May 7th, 2012Did you know it is Be Kind to Animals Week?
May 6-12 is Be Kind to Animals Week, and it’s a great time to focus on sharing your love of animals with kids, grand kids, nieces, nephews, students and any other young ones in your life!
We would like to share ASPCA’s Five Tips you can take yourself to celebrate Be Kind To Animals Week:
1. Volunteer Together
Sure, many shelters require volunteers to be 18 to handle animals—but that doesn’t mean there’s nothing kids can do to help! Kids can hold a bake sale for a local shelter, help with web design or do even more. Call your favorite shelter to ask what your kids can do.2. Write a Letter to Congress
I’m sure you know that animals across the country need our help! But did you know that kids can help, too? Talk about the issues with your kids, then write a letter together.3. Get Crafty
If you’ve got a future artist on your hands, consider getting messy in the craft room for shelter animals. What can you do? For starters, you can make cat toys for homeless kitties in your area. Check out this page for instructions. (Hint: You’ll need some old socks.) Or you can decorate bandanas to help shelter pets get noticed!4. Get ‘Em Involved in Pet Care
Whether you decide your 12-year-old is ready for his own guinea pig or you want your 14-year-old to feed the dog dinner each day, getting your kids involved in caring for your pets will help them build a lasting love for animals.5. Foster a Shelter Animal
Of course, this choice isn’t right for everyone; adding an animal, even temporarily, is a big deal! But there’s no better way to show your kids the beauty of the human-animal bond than saving a life together. If your home has room for one more, Be Kind to Animals Week is a great time to foster a shelter cat or dog who needs some extra attention.Make sure to comment on our blog if you have any other suggestions of ways to celebrate Be Kind to Animals Week.
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What To Do If Your Pet Is Poisoned
Posted on May 4th, 2012If your pet gets poisoned, it is important not to panic and stay calm.
Clear the Air has found some helpful information provided by the ASPCA on what to do if your pet has been poisoned.
Please read below:
Take 30 to 60 seconds to safely collect and have at hand any material involved. This may be of great benefit to your vet as they determine what poison or poisons are involved. In the event that you need to take your pet to a local veterinarian, be sure to take the product’s container with you. Also, collect in a sealable plastic bag any material your pet may have vomited or chewed.
If you witness your pet consuming material that you suspect might be toxic, do not hesitate to seek emergency assistance, even if you do not notice any adverse effects. Sometimes, even if poisoned, an animal may appear normal for several hours or for days after the incident.
Call the ASPCA Animal Poison Control Center
The telephone number is (888) 426-4435. There is a $65 consultation fee for this service.
Be ready with the following information:
- The species, breed, age, sex, weight and number of animals involved.
- The animal’s symptoms.
- Information regarding the exposure, including the agent (if known), the amount of the agent involved and the time elapsed since the time of exposure.
- Have the product container/packaging available for reference.
Please note: If your animal is having seizures, losing consciousness, is unconscious or is having difficulty breathing, telephone ahead and bring your pet immediately to your local veterinarian or emergency veterinary clinic.
Be Prepared
Keep the telephone number of the ASPCA Animal Poison Control Center—(888) 426-4435—as well as that of your local veterinarian, in a prominent location.
Invest in an emergency first-aid kit for your pet. The kit should contain:
- A fresh bottle of hydrogen peroxide, 3 percent USP (to induce vomiting)
- A turkey baster, bulb syringe or large medicine syringe (to administer peroxide)
- Saline eye solution
- Artificial tear gel (to lubricate eyes after flushing)
- Mild grease-cutting dish washing liquid (for bathing an animal after skin contamination)
- Forceps (to remove stingers)
- A muzzle (to protect against fear- or excitement-induced biting)
- A can of your pet’s favorite wet food
- A pet carrier
Always consult a veterinarian or the APCC for directions on how and when to use any emergency first-aid item.
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San Diego Humane Society’s 18th Annual Walk for Animals
Posted on April 30th, 2012In honor of Clear the Air’s fundraiser for The San Diego Humane Society, check out this great event you can be a part of to help raise money for the Humane Society…
Check out the San Diego Humane Society’s 18th Annual Walk for Animals! You and your furry friends will have a tail-waggin’ good time as we walk to celebrate our love for animals while raising the vital funds needed to ensure that every companion animal can find a loving home.
The morning festivities include a delicious pancake breakfast, a scenic ¾ mile walk, fun-filled doggie activities and contests, and an array of vendors. Help us reach our goal of $600,000!
Click Here to sign up for the event!
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Black Dogs – Last To Get Adopted
Posted on April 27th, 2012When it comes to adoption, black dogs are often passed over for whatever reason and end up being the last to be adopted, if adopted at all.
Some people still have a harmful superstition of black dogs, place a negative label on them, fear that the color of the dog makes them aggressive or dangerous or think they are just too ordinary looking.
Some people may not be aware of the horrifying rate black dogs are euthanized over lighter colored dogs. While the idea of doggie discrimination sounds strange, “black dog syndrome” does happen. It is usually an unconscious occurrence and it may explain why black cats have the same problem finding a home. People whom are superstitious about black cats may unconsciously harbor superstitions about black dogs as well.
Sometimes people may mistake black dogs to be older than other lighter dogs. This is because they usually have bits of facial hair that may be white or gray, making the dog appear older than he/she really is. Others may return their black dog to the shelter because they have gotten new furniture and they don’t want the dark hair that their pet sheds.
Another interesting factor that keep black dogs from being adopted is the simple fact that their black coats can make them hard to see in poorly lit kennels. This can lead to poorly taken photos being posted on the shelters’ web sites which are how many people find the dog they want to adopt.
A lot of shelters will put extra energy into getting their black dogs noticed. Usually placing a brightly colored ribbon or piece of fabric around their necks help to get these black coated dogs noticed.
If you or someone you know is looking to adopt, keep black dogs in mind. They have the hardest time being adopted out but could end up being your best companion yet!
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Dogs – On the Brink of Sniffing Out Disease?
Posted on April 25th, 2012Dog’s noses are amazing, so much in fact they are able to detect individual scent molecules among thousands; molecules so small that they elude hi-tech sensory equipment.
Dog’s noses are used to rescue people, discover drugs, uncover agricultural contraband, sniff out bombs and detect landmines.
What about disease? There has been evidence that dogs may be able to give early warning signs of cancer and the onset of epileptic seizures. In spite of a lot of hype, however, the evidence is far from conclusive. Researchers have made some progress but the jury is still out on whether dogs will assume a new role in the field of medicine.
Check out some of these scenarios we got from Petplace.com.
Sniffing Out Cancer
In 1989, a woman went to see her doctor about a mole in her left leg. The mole had been there for quite a few months, but she paid it little interest. Her dog, on the other hand, soon became obsessed with it.
At first, the dog – a cross between a border collie and a Doberman – constantly sniffed or licked at the mole, even through clothing. He eventually tried to bite it off, according to the Lancet, a highly respected British medical journal. The 44-year-old woman decided it was time to get this thing checked out. The mole turned out to be malignant melanoma, a life-threatening form of skin cancer, and it was quickly removed. Her dog, by bringing it to her attention, had saved the woman’s life.
Intrigued with persistent reports of such phenomena, Florida dermatologist Armand Cognetta decided to investigate possible medical uses. In 1996, Cognetta borrowed a 7-year-old schnauzer named George, a recently retired bomb-sniffing canine, and asked for help from a veteran dog trainer. The goal was to see if George (who had an uncanny sense of smell, even for a dog) could consistently sniff out melanoma, in both tissue samples and in people.
Normally, a handheld microscope is used to diagnose potential skin cancer, followed by a biopsy. The microscope is about 80 percent effective in early diagnosis, which is why further tests are usually conducted to confirm the diagnosis.
After many hours of training, the gray schnauzer scored nearly 100 percent on identifying melanoma tissue samples. Cognetta then allowed George to “examine” actual patients. He discovered melanoma in four (possibly five, depending on how you look at the results) of seven patients. Cognetta wrote that the results were interesting but far from conclusive. A much larger, more controlled study is necessary to determine if dogs can be trained to reliably detect cancer.
However, if they do have the ability to detect disease, don’t expect dogs in medical practices any time soon. The cost to train a dog would be astronomical – $35,000 per dog, with 1,200 hours of training. That costs way more than even an MRI exam. A biopsy would be necessary in any case, because doctors would never base an opinion on a single diagnosis.
The real promise is to discover how dogs are able to do it, and then build a machine to mimic the skill. Studies are underway in seven institutions across the globe to find out why some dogs have this amazing ability.
Detecting Epilepsy
Dogs also have been reported to be able to detect the onset of epileptic seizures, sometimes 20 minutes prior to an attack. The benefit of this is obvious: a person can be forewarned to find a safe place or get help before being incapacitated.
Unfortunately, in spite of the many anecdotal reports of “seizure alert dogs,” there is no scientific evidence or documented proof that dogs can be reliably trained to detect the onset of a seizure. The seizure itself is a symptom, not a specific disease. Seizures can occur for a variety of reasons, one of which is epilepsy. Regardless of the cause, the electrical activity in the brain is temporarily disrupted during a seizure. Seizures can be hardly noticeable, or they can be incapacitating.
The Epilepsy Institute has been unsuccessful in its attempts to study whether dogs can reliably predict seizures. The institute used EEG machines and video cameras to monitor epileptics with their dogs. Limited funding did not permit 24-hour monitoring, and during the monitoring no seizures took place.
But finding evidence of this ability would only be a first step. Training a dog to recognize and respond appropriately is the greater challenge. If dogs have this ability, there is no way to know if a dog can be trained with this skill.
“There is no guarantee that a dog, if he can detect a seizure, will do so 10 out of 10 times,” explained Beth Rivard, executive director of a nationally recognized service dog program. Rivard heads up the Prison Pet Partnership Program, at Washington Corrections Center for Women, in Washington.
Beginning in 1981, the program has been teaching inmates to care for and train service dogs, which are then placed with recipients suffering from a number of disorders, including epilepsy. When a seizure begins, dogs are trained to stay with the person, and to get a phone or medication if directed to do so. They also know to get help, and may even know to try to roll a person onto his side to prevent choking.
But Rivard said there’s no way to train a dog to detect when a seizure is imminent. “It would be a great thing if they can do it, but how do you prove it every time,” she said. If a dog senses a chemical change prior to a seizure – which they may – the odor would have to be replicated to train the dog to react the right way, every time. That may be difficult because seizures are electrical disturbances within the brain.
The Epilepsy Institute recommends against getting a dog for the purpose of predicting seizures, and does not recommend any trainers for this purpose. After conducting interviews, the institute concluded that despite the publicity, few people have actually reported that their pets have this ability. Half of those who said their pets did show some ability were more likely to identify behavior during or after a seizure – and not before.
However, the institute noted that enough reports sound authentic enough to warrant more scientific research.
The institute is pursuing funding to conduct more extensive research, and has developed a pet profile questionnaire to collect data on the subject. After filling out the form, individuals will be interviewed by phone to the likelihood that their pet can detect seizures prior to human awareness.
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Allergic to pets? Learn how you can still keep your furry companions!
Posted on April 19th, 2012Are you allergic to pets?
You love dogs and cats and wish you could have one but your allergies tell you otherwise.
There is hope though! Read this article we found on the ASPCA’s website which tells how you can still keep your furry companion and breathe easy.
Although more and more people are discovering the beneficial effects of owning a furry bundle of joy, the fact remains that roughly 15 to 20 percent of the population is allergic to animals. The result? Countless owners in unhappy, unhealthy situations—and their beloved pets are the cause! Allergen is the medical term for the actual substance that causes an allergic reaction. Touching or inhaling allergens leads to reactions in allergic individuals. Symptoms can include red, itchy, watery eyes and nose; sneezing; coughing; scratchy or sore throat; itchy skin, and most serious of all, difficulty breathing.
The most common pet allergens are proteins found in their dander (scales of old skin that are constantly shed by an animal), saliva, urine and sebaceous cells. Any animal can trigger an allergic response, but cats are the most common culprits. People can also become allergic to the urine, dander and saliva of exotic pets such as ferrets, guinea pigs, birds, rabbits and rodents. There is no species or breed to which humans cannot develop allergies. Fur length and type will not affect or prevent allergies. Certain pets can be less irritating than others to those who suffer from allergies, but that is strictly on an individual basis and cannot be predicted.
Once the diagnosis of a pet allergy is made, a physician will often recommend eliminating the companion animal from the surroundings. Heartbreaking? Yes. Absolutely necessary? Not always. Keep in mind that most people are allergic to several things besides pets, such as dust mites, molds and pollens, all of which can be found in the home. Allergic symptoms result from the total cumulative allergen load. That means that if you eliminate some of the other allergens, you may not have to get rid of your pet. (Conversely, should you decide to remove your pet from your home, this may not immediately solve your problems.) You must also be prepared to invest the time and effort needed to decontaminate your home environment, limit future exposure to allergens and find a physician who will work with you. Our three-part program follows:
Improving the Immediate Environment
- Create an allergen-free room. A bedroom is often the best and most practical choice. By preventing your pet from entering this room, you can ensure at least eight hours of freedom from allergens every night. It’s a good idea to use hypoallergenic bedding and pillow materials.
- Limit fabrics. Allergens collect in rugs, drapes and upholstery, so do your best to limit or eliminate them from your home. If you choose to keep some fabrics, steam-clean them regularly. Cotton-covered furniture is the smartest choice, and washable blinds or shades make good window treatments.
- Vacuum frequently using a vacuum equipped with a HEPA (high-efficiency particulate arresting) filter or a disposable electrostatic bag. Other kinds of bags will permit allergens to blow back out of the vacuum.
- Install an air purifier fitted with a HEPA filter. Our modern, energy-efficient homes lock in air that is loaded with allergens, so it’s smart to let in some fresh air daily.
- Use anti-allergen room sprays. These sprays deactivate allergens, rendering them harmless. Ask your allergist for a product recommendation.
- Clean the litter box frequently. Use lowdust, perfume-free filler. Clumping litter is a good choice.
- Dust regularly. Wiping down the walls will also cut down on allergens.
- Invest in washable pet bedding and cages that can be cleaned often and easily.
Decontaminating Your Pet
- Bathe your pet at least once a week. Your veterinarian can recommend a shampoo that won’t dry out his skin. Bathing works to wash off the allergens that accumulate in an animal’s fur.
- Wipe your pet with a product formulated to prevent dander from building up and flaking off into the environment. Ask your veterinarian to suggest one that is safe to use on animals who groom themselves.
- Note any symptoms of dermatitis exhibited by your companion animal. Dermatitis often leads to accelerated skin and fur shedding, which will up your allergen exposure.
- Brush or comb your pet frequently. It’s best to do this outdoors, if possible. (The ASPCA does not recommend keeping cats outdoors, so make sure your feline is leashed if you take him outside.)
Taking Care of Yourself
- If possible, have someone other than yourself do the housecleaning, litter box work and pet washing, wiping and brushing. If you must clean the house or change the litter, be sure to wear a dust mask.
- Wash your hands after handling your companion animal and before touching your face. The areas around your nose and eyes are particularly sensitive to allergens.
- Designate a “pet outfit” from among your most easily washed clothes. Wear it when playing or cuddling with your companion, and you’ll leave other clothing uncontaminated.
- Find a physician, preferably an allergy specialist, who will make sure that your pet is the cause of your allergies and will help alleviate your symptoms. Medications and immunotherapy (desensitizing shots) can often allow you and your companion animal to remain together happily ever after.
Article from ASPCA’s website.
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Traveling With Your Dog – What To Know
Posted on April 16th, 2012Dog are a part of our every day life. When we go on vacation, it is nice to be able to bring our faithful companion on our travels with us.
However, there are some things to keep in mind when traveling with your dog to make sure he/she is safe and has an enjoyable trip.
First, you should make sure to bring your dog to the vet’s for a check up before going on an extended trip. Make sure all his vaccinations are up to date; shot records with you. Health certifications are required for airline travel. To keep your dog healthy as you travel, bring along a supply of his regular food and some local, or bottled, water. Be sure to bring any medications he needs.
A crate is an excellent way to keep your dog safe in the car, and is required for airline travel. It can also keep your pet from getting into trouble in a hotel or at your host’s home. Crates are available from most pet supply stores. Look for these features when purchasing:
- Large enough to allow the dog to stand, turn and lie down.
- Strong, with handles and grips, and free of interior protrusions.
- Leak-proof bottom covered with absorbent material.
- Ventilation on opposing sides, with exterior rims or knobs to prevent blocked airflow.
- “Live Animal” label, arrows upright, with owner’s name, address and phone number.
- Stock the crate with a comfortable mat, your dog’s favorite toy, and a water bottle, and your dog is ready to go.
In the event that your dog gets away from you on your trip, you can increase the chances of recovery by making sure he can be properly identified. Make sure your dog has a sturdy leash and collar. The collar should have identification tags with the dog’s name, your name, and your home phone number, as well as proof of rabies shots. Consider a permanent form of identification, such as a microchip and bring a recent picture of your dog along with you.
If you are traveling by car, here are some helpful tips to keep in mind:
- Get your dog used to the car by letting him sit in it with you without leaving the driveway, and then going for short rides.
- Avoid car sickness by letting your dog travel on an empty stomach. However, make sure he has plenty of water at all times.
- Keep the car well-ventilated. If the dog is in a crate, make sure that fresh air can flow into the crate.
- Do not let your dog ride with his head sticking out of an open window. This can lead to eye injuries.
- Never let your dog ride in the back of an open truck. This is extremely dangerous and can lead to severe injuries or death.
- Stop frequently for exercise and potty breaks. Be sure to clean up after your dog.
- Car rides are boring for everyone, so instruct your children not to tease or annoy the dog in the car.
- Never, ever leave your dog unattended in a closed vehicle, particularly in the summer. See Summer Safety Tips for more information. If you must leave the car, designate a member of the family to stay with the dog.
If you are traveling by plane, here are some helpful tips to keep in mind:
- Each airline has its own set of rules for canine air travel. You should call for information and make arrangements well in advance of your trip.
- All airlines require health certifications and proof of vaccinations.
- Some airlines will not transport animals when it is extremely hot or cold.
- Dogs must be in an airline-approved crate when transported as cargo. Small dogs may ride under the seat in a crate or carrier.
If you plan to travel with your dog by train or bus, you may be disappointed. Dogs are not permitted on Amtrak trains or on buses operated by Greyhound and other interstate bus companies. (Service dogs are permitted.) Local rail and bus companies have their own policies.
You may fare better if you’re taking a cruise. The QE2 luxury cruiser, which sails from New York to England/France, provides special lodging and free meals for your dog. However, you should check the policies of the cruise line or ship you will be traveling on before making plans to take your dog on a cruise with you.
Before you set out to your vacation destination, find out in advance which hotels or motels at your destination or on your route allow dogs. Many do not, or have size or breed restrictions. If your dog is allowed to stay at a hotel, respect other guests, staff and the property and keep your dog as quiet as possible. Do not leave the dog unattended. Many dogs will bark or destroy property if left alone in a strange place. It is important to ask the management where you should walk your dog, and pick up after him, making sure not to not leave any mess behind. Remember that one bad experience with a dog guest may prompt the hotel management to refuse to allow any dogs. Be considerate of others and leave your room and the grounds in good condition.
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Your Puppy and House Training
Posted on April 12th, 2012Get Your Puppy House Trained!
If you just got a puppy, it is now time to learn how to potty train him. If you have accidents, you do not want your puppy to go back to that spot to urinate again. Use Clear the Air’s Carpet and Furniture Odor Eliminator to completely eliminate the odors.
We found this article from ASPCA’s website and thought there was a lot of valuable information on potty-training your puppy.
Puppies need to be house trained in order to understand that it’s not okay to eliminate in your house. House training is a simple process, but one that must be carried out positively (without punishment that scares the puppy) and consistently, following two main guidelines: 1) prevent indoor accidents through confinement and close supervision, and 2) take the puppy outside on a frequent and regular schedule and reward him for eliminating where you want him to go. House soiling can occur in any location in the home but sometimes pet parents will notice that their puppy soils more in certain locations, such as infrequently used rooms or on a specific kind of surface. Very young pups (under 12 weeks old) don’t have complete bladder control and might not be able to hold it very long. Older puppies who have had accidents might not have been house trained completely.
Why Puppies You Thought Were Housetrained Might Have Accidents
Too Young to Be Fully House Trained – Some puppies, especially those under 12 weeks of age, haven’t developed bladder or bowel control yet.
Incomplete House Training – Many puppies simply haven’t learned where to eliminate—or they haven’t learned a way to tell their people when they need to go out. Some puppies house soil only under specific conditions. For example, your puppy may soil when he’s home alone for long periods of time, first thing in the morning, sometime during the night, only when you’re not watching or only in infrequently used rooms. Other puppies may urinate or defecate whenever they feel the need to go.
Breakdown in House Training – Sometimes puppies who seem to be house trained at one point regress and start soiling in the house again.
Other Reasons Your Puppy Might House Soil
Urine Marking – If your puppy is over three months of age and urinates small amounts on vertical surfaces, he may be urine marking. Young dogs engaging in this behavior often raise their hind legs when urinating.
Separation Anxiety – If your puppy only soils when he’s left alone in your home, even for short periods of time, he may have separation anxiety. If this is the case, you may notice that he appears nervous or upset right before you leave him by himself or after you’ve left (if you can observe him while he’s alone).
Submissive/Excitement Urination – Your puppy may have a submissive/excitement urination problem if he only urinates during greetings, play, physical contact, scolding or punishment. If this is the case, you may notice your puppy displaying submissive postures during interactions. He may cringe or cower, roll over on his belly, tuck or lower his tail, duck his head, avert his eyes, flatten his ears or all of the above.
Medical Causes for House Soiling – It’s always a good idea to visit your puppy’s veterinarian to rule out medical causes for house soiling. Some common medical reasons for inappropriate urination and defecation follow.
Urinary Tract Infection (UTI) – Puppies with urinary tract infections usually urinate frequently and in small amounts. They may also lick their genital areas more than usual.
Gastrointestinal Upset – If your puppy was house trained but now defecates loose stools or diarrhea in your house, he may have gastrointestinal upset for some reason.
Change in Diet – If you’ve recently changed the amount or type of food you give your puppy, he may develop a house soiling problem. Often, after a diet change, a puppy will defecate loose stools or diarrhea. He may also need to eliminate more frequently or on a different schedule than before the diet change.
Miscellaneous Medical Causes – Other medical causes include abnormalities of the genitalia that cause incontinence (loss of bladder control), various diseases that cause frequent elimination and medications that cause frequent elimination.
How to House Train Your Puppy
House training is accomplished by rewarding your puppy for eliminating where you want him to go (outside) AND by preventing him from urinating or defecating in unacceptable places (inside the house). You should keep crating and confinement to a minimum, but some amount of restriction is usually necessary for your puppy to learn to “hold it.”
How Long It Will Take
Some puppies learn where and where not to eliminate at a very young age, while others take longer to understand. Most puppies can be reasonably house trained by four to six months of age. However, some puppies are not 100% reliable until they are eight to twelve months of age. Some puppies seem to catch on early but then regress. This is normal. Keep in mind that it may take a while for your puppy to develop bowel and bladder control. He may be mentally capable of learning to eliminate outdoors instead of inside, but he may not yet be physically capable of controlling his body.
How Often Your Puppy Needs to Go Out
All puppies are different, but a puppy can usually only hold his waste for the same number of hours as his age in months. (In other words, a four-month-old pup should not be left alone for more than four consecutive hours without an opportunity to go outside.) He can last longer at night, however, since he’s inactive (just like we can). By the time your pup is about four months old, he should be able to make it through the night without going outside.
House Training Steps
- Keep your puppy on a consistent daily feeding schedule and remove food between meals.
- Take the puppy outside on a consistent schedule. Puppies should be taken out every hour, as well as shortly after meals, play and naps. All puppies should go out first thing in the morning, last thing at night and before being confined or left alone.
- In between these outings, know where your puppy is at all times. You need to watch for early signs that he needs to eliminate so that you can anticipate and prevent accidents from happening. These signs include pacing, whining, circling, sniffing or leaving the room. If you see any of these, take your puppy outside as quickly as possible. Not all puppies learn to let their caretakers know that they need to go outside by barking or scratching at the door. Some will pace a bit and then just eliminate inside. So watch your puppy carefully.
- If you can’t watch your puppy, he must be confined to a crate or a small room with the door closed or blocked with a baby gate. Alternatively, you can tether him to you by a leash that does not give him much leeway around you (about a six-foot leash). Gradually, over days or weeks, give your puppy more freedom, starting with freedom a small area, like the kitchen, and gradually increasing it to larger areas, or multiple rooms, in your home. If he eliminates outside, give him some free time in the house (about 15 to 20 minutes to start), and then put him back in his crate or small room. If all goes well, gradually increase the amount of time he can spend out of confinement.
- Accompany your puppy outside and reward him whenever he eliminates outdoors with praise, treats, play or a walk. It’s best to take your puppy to the same place each time because the smells often prompt puppies to eliminate. Some puppies will eliminate early on in a walk. Others need to move about and play for a bit first.
- If you catch your puppy in the act of eliminating inside, clap sharply twice, just enough to startle but not scare him. (If your puppy seems upset or scared by your clapping, clap a little softer the next time you catch him in the act.) When startled, the puppy should stop in mid-stream. Immediately run with him outside, encouraging him to come with you the whole way. (If necessary, take your puppy gently by the collar to run him outside.) Allow your pup to finish eliminating outside, and then reward him with happy praise and a small treat. If he has nothing to eliminate when he gets outside, don’t worry. Just try to be more watchful of him in the house in the future. If your puppy has an accident but you don’t catch him in the act and only find the accident afterward, do nothing to your pup. He cannot connect any punishment with something he did hours or even minutes ago.
What NOT to Do
- Do not rub your puppy’s nose in his waste.
- Do not scold your dog for eliminating indoors. Instead, if you catch him in the act, make a noise to startle him and stop him from urinating or defecating. Then immediately show your dog where you want him to go by running with him outside, waiting until he goes, and then praising and rewarding him.
- Do not physically punish your puppy for accidents (hitting with newspaper, spanking, etc.). Realize that if your puppy has accidents in the house, you failed to adequately supervise him, you did not take him outside frequently enough, or you ignored or were unaware of his signals that he needed to go outside.
- Do not confine your puppy to a small area for hours each day, without doing anything else to correct the problem.
- Do not crate your puppy if he’s soiling in the crate.
- If your puppy enjoys being outside, don’t bring him inside right after he eliminates or he may learn to “hold it” so that he can stay outside longer.
For any accidents your puppy makes in the house, make sure to clean the area and sprinkle Clear the Air’s Carpet and Furniture Odor Eliminator over the soiled area. Let sit for 24-48 hours and vacuum it up. The odor should be completely eliminated and your pet will no longer associate that area with eliminating.