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Hurricane Sandy – We Want To Help
Posted on November 30th, 2012Our hearts go out to Hurricane Sandy victims…there is still so much clean up to be done on the East Coast and we want to help. Please watch our special Hurricane Sandy video:
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San Diego Humane Society’s Hidden Gem Spotlight
Posted on November 26th, 2012This week we are promoting Benji! He is looking for his forever home…do you have room in your heart for Benji?
Watch Benji’s video and see his goofiness & enthusiasm come to life!
Benji is a sweet, one-year old Pit Bull/Lab Retriever mix who is as lovable as he is cute! Still an exuberant pup, Benji approaches life with enthusiasm and plenty of curiosity. Although he had a tough start in life that has left him a bit shy, he is becoming more and more social daily, and Benji’s current foster mom reports that he is doing very well, having fun, and wagging that tail of his more than ever!
This sweet guy will need some extra time and patience from the lucky family who adopts him. The world around him can seem very new and scary, so Benji appreciates slow introductions and lots of love to help him overcome some of his fears. In addition to playing with tennis balls and being his energetic and goofy self, Benji also knows how to relax with the best of ’em and enjoys spending plenty of quality time snuggling on the couch.
Benji’s adoption fee of $75 includes his neuter, current vaccinations, permanent microchip identification, a certificate for a free veterinary exam, a bag of food from Hill’s Science Diet and a license if residing in Oceanside or Vista! This very special hidden gem of ours is currently in foster care. If you are interested in meeting him or getting more information, please contact Customer Service at (619) 299-7012.
Animal ID 94566
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After Flood Clean Up
Posted on November 8th, 2012Unfortunately many of the Hurricane Sandy victims are forced to clean up their home after the devistation of the storm that has affected so many East Coast residents.
Clear the Air would like to help by providing tips to flood cleanup. Remember, we are offering a HUGE discount on our products which will help eliminate flood, mildew, and other odors left by a flood.
When your house floods, the water can wreak havoc on the structure of the house, your personal belongings, and the health of the inside environment. Flood waters contain many contaminants and lots of mud. High dollar items can get ruined all at once, even with just an inch of water, for example: carpeting, wallboard, appliances, and furniture. A more severe storm or deeper flood may add damage to even more expensive systems, like: ducts, the heater and air conditioner, roofing, private sewage and well systems, utilities, and the foundation.
After a flood, cleaning up is a long and hard process. Here is a list of common techniques for sanitizing and cleaning flooded items:
- First things first: call your insurance agent. If your insurance covers the damage, your agent will tell you when an adjuster will contact you. List damage and take photos or videotape as you clean. You’ll need complete records for insurance claims, applications for disaster assistance and income tax deductions.
- Contaminated mud-Shovel out as much mud as possible, then use a garden sprayer or hose to wash away mud from hard surfaces.
- Clean and disinfect every surface. Scrub surfaces with hot water and a heavy-duty cleaner. Then disinfect with a solution of 1/4 cup chlorine bleach per gallon of water or a product that is labeled as a disinfectant to kill germs.
- In the kitchen–
- Immerse glass, porcelain, china, plastic dinnerware and enamelware for 10 minutes in a disinfecting solution of 2 tablespoons of chlorine bleach per gallon of hot water. Air-dry dishes. Do not use a towel.
- Disinfect silverware, metal utensils, and pots and pans by boiling in water for 10 minutes. Chlorine bleach should not be used in this case because it reacts with many metals and causes them to darken.
- Cupboards and counters need to be cleaned and rinsed with a chlorine bleach solution before storing dishes.
- Furniture and household items–
- Take furniture, rugs, bedding and clothing outside to dry as soon as possible. Use an air conditioner or dehumidifier to remove moisture or open at least two windows to ventilate with outdoor air. Use fans to circulate air in the house. If mold and mildew have already developed, brush off items outdoors to prevent scattering spores in the house. Vacuum floors, ceilings and walls to remove mildew, then wash with disinfectant. Wear a two-strap protective mask to prevent breathing mold spores.
- Mattresses should be thrown away.
- Upholstered furniture soaks up contaminants from flood waters and should be cleaned only by a professional.
- Wood veneered furniture is usually not worth the cost and effort of repair.
Solid wood furniture can usually be restored, unless damage is severe. - Toys and stuffed animals may have to be thrown away if they’ve been contaminated by flood waters.
- Photographs, books and important papers can be frozen and cleaned later. They should be dried carefully and slowly. Wash the mud off and store the articles in plastic bags and put them in a frost-free freezer to protect from mildew and further damage until you have time to thaw and clean them or take them to a professional.
- Ceilings and walls–
- Wallboard acts like a sponge when wet. Remove wallboard, plaster and paneling to at least the flood level. If soaked by contaminated floodwater, it can be a permanent health hazard and should be removed. If most of the wallboard was soaked by clean rainwater, consider cutting a 4- to 12-inch-high section from the bottom and top of walls. This creates a “chimney effect” of air movement for faster drying. A reciprocating saw with a metal cutting blade works well, but use only the tip of the blade and watch out for pipes, ductwork and wiring.
- Plaster and paneling can often be saved, but air must be circulated in the wall cavities to dry the studs and sills.
- The three kinds of insulation must be treated differently. Styrofoam might only need to be hosed off. Fiberglass batts should be thrown out if muddy but may be reused if dried thoroughly. Loose or blown-in cellulose should be replaced since it holds water for a long time and can lose its antifungal and fire retardant abilities.
- Electrical system-The system must be shut off and repaired and inspected by an electrician before it can be turned back on. Wiring must be completely dried out- even behind walls. Switches, convenience outlets, light outlets, entrance panel, and junction boxes that have been under water may be filled with mud.
- Heating and cooling systems and ducts-Will need inspection and cleaning. Flood-soaked insulation should be replaced.
- Appliances-Appliances will get stains, odors, silt deposits, and gritty deposits and need to be serviced, cleaned and sanitized. Running equipment before it is properly cleaned could seriously damage it and/or shock you. Professional cleaning is recommended for electronics, TVs and radios, washing machines, dryers, dishwashers, and vacuum cleaners. The hard exterior can be hand cleaned. All metallic appliances that have been flooded should be properly grounded to prevent electric shock. Mud or dirt in a grounded outlet or adapter may prevent the grounding system from working, and you could be electrocuted.
- Pump out the basement-If your basement is full or nearly full of water, pump out just 2 or 3 feet of water each day. If you drain the basement too quickly, the pressure outside the walls will be greater than the pressure inside the walls. That may make the walls and floor crack and collapse.
- Floors-With wood subflooring, the floor covering (vinyl, linoleum, carpet) must be removed so the subflooring can dry thoroughly which may take several months. Open windows and doors to expose the boards to as much air as possible.
- Carpeting-Clean and dry carpets and rugs as quickly as possible. If sewage-contaminated floodwater covered your carpeting, discard it for health safety reasons. Also discard if the carpet was under water for 24 hours or more. To clean, drape carpets and rugs outdoors and hose them down. Work a disinfecting carpet cleaner into soiled spots with a broom. To discourage mildew and odors, rinse with a solution of 2 tablespoons bleach to 1 gallon water, but don’t use this solution on wool or nylon carpets. Dry the carpet and floor thoroughly before replacing the carpet. Padding is nearly impossible to clean so should be replaced. If the carpet can’t be removed, dry it as quickly as possible using a wet/dry vacuum and dehumidifier. Use a fan to circulate air above the carpet, and if possible, lift the carpet and ventilate with fans underneath.
- Vinyl flooring and floor tile may need to be removed to allow drying of subfloor.
- Wood floors-Wooden floors should be dried gradually. Sudden drying could cause cracking or splitting. Some restoration companies can accelerate drying time by forcing air through the fluted underside of hardwood floorboards. Remove hardwood floor boards to prevent buckling. Remove a board every few feet to reduce buckling caused by swelling. Clean and dry wood before attempting repairs.
- Roof damage and leaks–
- Defective flashing– Flashing is the sheet metal used in waterproofing roof valleys, hips and the angle between a chimney and a roof. Wet spots near a chimney or outside wall may mean the leak is caused by defective flashing, narrow flashing or loose mortar joints. Look for corroded, loose or displaced flashing on sloping roof valleys and at junctions of dormers and roof.
- Clogged downspouts or eaves– Check for choked downspouts. Accumulated water or snow on the roof above the flashing may cause a leak. Ice accumulations on eaves sometimes form ridges, which cause melting snow to back up under the shingles.
- Cracks and deterioration– Roofing (especially wood or composition shingles) usually deteriorates first on southern exposures. Check southern slopes for cracking or deterioration.
- Holes– Missing shingles or holes in the roofing may be causing wet spots. To find holes, check for a drip trail or spot of light coming through in the attic. Stick a nail, straw or wire through the hole to mark the spot on the outside.
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Vacation Tips For Your Pets
Posted on November 6th, 2012We would like to share some helpful tips to prepare your pet when you and your family decide to go on vacation.
With all the packing and travel planning that accompany a vacation, it is easy to forget that the most lovable members of the family usually have to stay behind. Although they may be staying at home, pets should be properly prepared for vacations as well.
Most pet owners know to leave emergency numbers for the veterinarian and a trusted neighbor, along with detailed pet-care directions. Pet owners should take a few simple steps to preserve their animals’ daily routines and to ensure that their pets feel safe and comfortable while they are on vacation.
Choose a familiar face as the pet sitter: Pets are more likely to stick to their usual routines if they feel comfortable with the person providing their care. Extended family members, close friends, and friendly neighbors make great pet sitters, because they already know the pet’s disposition, habits, and quirks. If a professional pet sitter or other new face will be coming in, schedule a few meetings before leaving, so that the pet can acclimate to the new person.
Maintain routines regarding food and water: Ensure that food portions remain the same size with electric pet feeders, which are available for weekends or even full weeks. Both pet and caregiver will appreciate this step: not only will steady, regular portions curtail the pet’s stomach upset, but the pet sitter won’t have to worry about measuring meals accurately. Automate pet care even further with a pet water cooler, which will provide fresh cool water for several days. If your pet waterer uses a filter, be sure to change the filter before long vacation trips.
Make sleeping arrangements comfortable: Wash any pet beds and place them in the usual location. If the pet sitter will be staying in a guest room, provide a heated pet bed there, as well. This is especially important for older dogs; they often prefer to sleep in the same room as their caregivers, but may also suffer from stiffness or arthritis, which makes sleeping on the floor painful. The heat is especially therapeutic, and has been shown to ease separation anxiety in pets. For the warmer months, simply unplug it or consider an all-season pet bed, which can cool them down and warm them up. For both dogs and cats, place a t-shirt or other article of clothing in or near the pet bed. The familiar scent is calming if the animal gets distressed or anxious while you’re on vacation.
Ensure easy outdoor access: For pets that are used to having a dog or cat door, be sure to check that the door is unobstructed. Remove any items that could become dislodged, fall, or otherwise become a pet-door blockade, such as dangling tree limbs or stray outdoor toys. Electric pet doors give both cats and dogs greater freedom to go in and out, if the pet sitter cannot stay home or must be gone for long periods of time. They also prevent other garden pests and neighborhood pets from entering your home.
Make cleaning up a breeze: The least appealing part of pet sitting is the clean up. The kitty’s litter box can have a strong, off-putting odor, and picking up after the dog is equally unpleasant. An automatic litter box means that the pet sitter does not have to worry about daily scooping while you are on vacation.
For a truly carefree vacation, it is critical to make pet care stress free for both the pet and its caretaker. By preserving routines and providing easy-to-use tools, pet owners can rest assured that pets will be comfortable and safe in their absence.
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Helping Hurricane Sandy Victims
Posted on November 2nd, 2012Clear the Air would like to help those in need on the East Coast whom have been affected by Hurricane Sandy. We recently came across this article about the rat population who were washed out of the subway systems. Good news it appears most of the rats have died, bad news now they are going to stink!
Here is how we can help: Our product eliminates those odors and is completely non-toxic and safe even if ingested by pets or children. We are offering a discount to anyone affected by the hurricane.
Please visit our website to learn more about the product: www.cleartheair.com. If you are in an area that has been affected by Hurricane Sandy please send us an email or call us to receive the special discount pricing.
Pat 800 611 1611 pmolina@cleartheair.com www.cleartheair.comSpecial Pricing:
Case of 12 Carpet and Furniture Odor Eliminator Canisters: Regular price $119.88/case – Hurricane Sandy Price $40.00/case
Earth Care Odor Eliminator Bags – Regular Price $11.99/bag – Hurricane Sandy Price $$9.99/bag (Minimum of 6 bags)
Freight added to above prices.
At last some good news for New Yorkers: Thousands of RATS may have drowned in superstorm as water swept into city’s tunnels. By Louise Boyle
In the aftermath of Hurricane Sandy, fears were rife that the streets would be overrun with rats escaping the flooded tunnels and subways.
But it now looks as if those fears may have been groundless as there have not, as yet, been any reports of rodents roaming the streets.
Experts are saying the water likely rushed into tunnels so fast that the rats – despite being strong swimmers – had no time to escape and died.
Sam Miller, a spokesman for the NYC Department of Health and Mental Hygiene, told Forbes the city has not seen an increase in rats above ground caused by Sandy, adding that while flooding normally does drive them to the streets, it ‘also drowns young rats in their burrows and can reduce the rat population’.
Rodentologist Robert Corrigan, who works with the city on keeping populations under control, told LiveScience that baby rats will likely die unless they are carried to safety by their mothers.
Another expert, Herwig Leirs, a rodentologist at the University of Antwerp in Belgium, confirmed that most would drown.
‘Rats will be carried away by the current and won’t be strong enough to swim to the surface and breathe, or they’ll be pushed to grates, they will get stuck there and they won’t be strong enough to swim against the current,’ he said.
However, the rats that are able to survive the floodwaters will be treated to a surge of garbage and food to feast on once things have dried out.
According to NBC, approximately 28 million rats live in the subway tunnels of New York. Whether they pose a health risk in the aftermath of the hurricane depends how quickly the water evaporates and how quickly subway crews can clean out the tunnels.
Rick Ostfeld of the Cary Institute of Ecosystem Studies in Milbrook, New York, earlier told The Huffington Post that if rats were forced out of their lairs, this could result in a rise in infectious diseases carried by urban rodents, including leptospirosis, hantavirus, typhus, salmonella, and even the plague.
Article found at: http://www.dailymail.co.uk/news/article-2225935/Hurricane-Sandy-probably-wiped-New-Yorks-rats-despite-warnings-rodent-apocalypse-say-experts.html
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Halloween Safety Tips For Pets
Posted on October 18th, 2012All you need to know for Halloween safety for your pets.
We like going through Clear the Air’s older blogs and thought this would be useful to share once again with our readers. The holidays, starting with Halloween, are a fun time but you should take some precautions to make sure your pets are safe and just as happy as you during the holidays.
Check out our Halloween safety blog from last year:
Halloween is a fun time for kids and adults, but it can also be scary for animals if you’re not careful. Any holiday brings an increased risk of harm and health problems for animals when candy and decorations are involved, but Halloween can be especially risky for a number of reasons. We encourage everyone to have a safe and fun holiday, but please keep the safety and well-being of your pets in mind!
Here are some tips to keeping your pet safe during the Halloween season:
1. Never leave your dog outside unattended – this is a generally safe rule to follow, but it is particularly important on Halloween. It is a sad truth that disturbed individuals have been known to injure and even kill pets on Halloween. No matter how safe your neighborhood may be, Halloween often brings out the pranksters and vandals, so don’t take any chances and keep your dog inside with you where you know he is safe.
2. Most people will agree that there is nothing cuter than a dog in costume. However, as appealing as your dolled-up pup may be, it is important to always keep your dog’s happiness, safety and comfort in mind.
If you are going to put your dog in costume, make sure it fits properly and does not pose a risk of strangulation. Remove any loose accessories that could be choked on such as ribbons or buttons. If your dog seems even the slightest bit uncomfortable, please reconsider your costume choice. A ballerina beagle may look adorable, but your dog does not know why he is wearing the getup and may do whatever it takes to get out of it, including chewing through the fabric.
3. Everyone knows the best part of Halloween is the candy, but unfortunately this is one of the main reasons that vets see an increase of sick animals around this holiday. Dogs have an incredible sense of smell and will likely notice the increase of sweets in the house. Keep all types of candy away from your dog!
Most people already know that chocolate is toxic to dogs and can make them very sick. But chocolate is not the only sweet treat that poses a risk. Sugar-free candy contains a chemical called Xylitol that can make dogs severely ill even in small doses. Candy foil and wrappers can be just as harmful, as they can cause choking or a blockage in a dog’s digestive tract. If you have kids, let them know that the dog cannot share their Halloween treats.
4. If you put up Halloween decorations, be sure to keep them well out of your dog’s reach. Dogs gravitate towards things that are shiny, small and/or inedible – all of which can cause serious health problems! Candles, lights and cords are a huge safety hazard for all pets. A curious dog that gets too close could be burned or electrocuted. A wagging tail can knock over a candle and start a fire in no time at all! Instead of putting a candle in your pumpkin consider using a small battery-powered light, which is safer and lasts longer!
5. Make sure your dog is in a safe, secure place when the trick-or-treaters come knocking at your door. The continuous knocking or ringing of a doorbell combined with the constant opening and closing of the door will offer plenty of opportunities for your pet to dart out and run away.
In addition, strangers arriving in spooky masks can be very frightening and could cause even the friendliest dogs to behave aggressive or territorially as a result of stress and fear. To avoid unnecessary stress or unpleasant confrontations with the neighborhood children, I suggest keeping your dog in a separate room. Try leaving a radio or TV on to drown out the sound of the many visitors.
6. No matter what your friends said in college, a drunk dog is NOT a happy dog. Never ever give any amount of alcohol to any animal. If you think it would be funny to see your dog intoxicated, think again. Alcohol is essentially poison to dogs and can cause symptoms including but not limited to: vomiting, disorientation, seizures, irregular heartbeat, heart attack and death. If you have a party make sure you clean up any leftover drinks, as some dogs are attracted to the sweetness of beer and wine.
While keeping your family safe during Halloween is always a must, keeping your pets healthy and safe is also essential. If you have kids, I recommend sharing these tips with them so they can learn how to be responsible and keep their beloved pet safe while enjoying the Halloween festivities. Please safe, be smart and have a very happy Halloween!
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Eliminate Cigarette Odor
Posted on October 10th, 2012Whether you smoke or bought a home or car where someone else smoked, the odor seems to always linger and is difficult to get rid of. Clear the Air has a solution we guarantee to completely eliminate cigarette smoke odor.
Don’t let cigarette smoke odor bring you down. Get rid of it with Clear the Air’s Odor Eliminators.
The truth is that cigarette smoke permeates into our furniture, carpets, walls, windows, and just about every other nook and cranny in our homes, making it particularly difficult to eliminate. Earth Care’s Clear The Air Odor Eliminators will pull the smoke odors out of carpets, drapes, furniture, clothing, and bedding without coming into contact them. It works just as well in your car, pulling the odors from the carpet and upholstery.
Simple to use and inexpensive Earth Care is the answer to your cigarette or cigar odors. This unique form of Earth Care Products Mineral does not have to come into contact with the odor producer; it will pull the odors from the entire area. Clear The Air draws in odors like a powerful magnet. The odors are adsorbed, and neutralized without any fragrances.
Clear The Air does not cover up odors; it literally “clears the air” leaving the air fresh and clean. Clear The Air is made from an all natural mineral, is non toxic and biodegradable and safe for Planet Earth.
It is also safe around children and pets even if eaten.
Directions to Eliminate Cigarette and Cigar Smoke Odors
- Hang 1-2 Earth Care Odor Eliminator Bags in each room that smells like cigarette smoke. One bag will cover 50-100 square feet. Odor will be eliminated in 24 hours.
- Bag will last 1-2 months, if room is heavily permeated with smoke odor the bag may need to be changed more often at first.
- If odors are particularly strong or room has been smoked in for years sprinkle Clear The Air Odor Eliminator for Carpet and Furniture granules on carpets and furniture. Leave down 24 hours and vacuum. Odors will be completely eliminated.
- One canister of Clear The Air Odor Eliminator for Carpet and Furniture covers 100 square feet; one bucket covers 900 square feet.
- Granules can also be placed in ashtrays and cigarette butt receptacles.
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Remove Mildew and Smoke Odor
Posted on October 6th, 2012Want to know how to finally eliminate any smoke or mildew odor your home may have? Clear the Air has the answer.
Our products work great in musty mildew basements along with any fire damaged areas of your home or place of work. Click here to be directed to our products to eliminate smoke and mildew odors.
Simple to use and cost effective Earth Care is the answer to your flood and fire odors. This unique form of Earth Care Products Mineral does not have to come into contact with the odor producer; it will pull the odors from the entire area.
Clear The Air draws in odors like a powerful magnet. The odors are adsorbed, and neutralized without any fragrances. Clear The Air does not cover up odors; it literally “clears the air” leaving the air fresh and clean. Clear The Air is made from an all natural mineral, is non toxic and biodegradable and safe for Planet Earth. It is safe around children and pets even if eaten.
Directions to Eliminate Musty Mildew Odors from Previously Flooded Areas
- Hang 1-2 bags in each room with odors. One bag cover up to 100 square feet.
- Bag will continue to eliminate new odors for up to 3 months.
- In addition to the bags sprinkle Clear The Air Odor Eliminator for Concrete or Carpet and Furniture granules on floor and furniture, leave down 24 hours and sweep or vacuum. Odors will be completely eliminated.
- One canister of Clear The Air Odor Eliminator For Concrete or Carpet and Furniture granules covers approximately 100 square feet.
- One Clear The Air Bucket of granules covers 900 square feet.
- Clear The Air can also be sprinkled outside on concrete, decks, lawns and shrubbery to remove musty odors. It is not necessary to remove from lawns and shrubbery as Clear The Air will act as a natural time release nitrogen fertilizer.
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Cat Anatomy Facts
Posted on May 11th, 2012Cool Cat Anatomy Facts brought to you by Clear the Air!
Remember PETCO now carries our Cat Urine Odor Eliminator at all their stores. Stop in to pick some up!
- Cats can’t taste sweets.
- The cat’s front paw has 5 toes, but the back paws have 4. Some cats are born with as many as 7 front toes and extra back toes (polydactl).
- A cat has 32 muscles in each ear.
- Neutering a cat extends it’s life span by two or three years
- A cat’s tongue consists of small “hooks,” which come in handy when tearing up food
- Cats must have fat in their diet because they can’t produce it on their own.
- Cat’s urine glows under a black light.
- Cats have a third eyelid called a haw and you will probably only see it when kitty isn’t feeling well.
- A cat sees about six times better than a human at night because of a layer of extra reflecting cells which absorb light.
- Cats sleep 16 to 18 hours per day
- Cats are the only animal that walk on their claws, not the pads of their feet.
- Newborn kittens have closed ear canals that don’t begin to open for nine days.
- A kittens eyes are always blue at first
- A cat cannot see directly under its nose.
- It is a common belief that cats are color blind. However, recent studies have shown that cats can see blue, green and red
- Cats with white fur and skin on their ears are very prone to sunburn.
- Siamese kittens are born white.
- A cat’s jaws cannot move sideways.
- Cats have over one hundred vocal sounds, while dogs only have about ten.
- A cat can jump even seven times as high as it is tall.
- A cat is pregnant for about 58-65 days.
- A cat may have three to seven kittens every four months
- Cats step with both left legs, then both right legs when they walk or run. The only other animals to do this are the giraffe and the camel
- If a male cat is both orange and black it is most likely sterile
- The color of the points in Siamese cats is heat related. Cool areas are darker
- Cats lack a true collarbone. Because of this, a cat can generally squeeze their bodies through any space they can get their heads through.
- There are tiny, parasitic worms that can live in a cat’s stomach. These worms cause frequent vomiting.
- A cat’s brain is more similar to a man’s brain than that of a dog.
- A cat has more bones than a human; humans have 206, the cat has 230.
- Cats have 30 vertebrae–5 more than humans have.
- Cat have 500 skeletal muscles (humans have 650).
- A cat can rotate its ears independently 180 degrees, and can turn in the direction of sound 10 times faster than those of the best watchdog
- Cats’ hearing is much more sensitive than humans and dogs.
- Cats’ hearing stops at 65 khz (kilohertz); humans’ hearing stops at 20 khz.
- In relation to their body size, cats have the largest eyes of any mammal.
- A cat’s field of vision is about 185 degrees.
- Blue-eyed, white cats are often deaf.
Do you have any other cool cat facts? Share them with us on our blog!
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Keep Rats Out Of Your Home
Posted on April 26th, 2012Do you have a problem with rats infesting your home?
Maybe it has only happened once and the problem was taken care of. It is important, however, to make sure you take continuous precautionary measures to ensure rats do not become a nuisance in your home again.
If you have a rat die in the walls of your home, the odor can be overwhelming to say the least. Instead of having to get into the walls of your home to remove the dead carcass, simply hang one or two of our Clear The Air Odor Remover Bags in your home and the odor will be eliminated. It truly is that easy, guaranteed!
Get familiar with these pests so you are able to know what to do to prevent infestation. Read below to find out what type of food and housing they are attracted to and how to keep them out:
Where do rats live outside?
- Under wood piles or lumber that is not being used often
- Under bushes, vines and in tall grasses that are not trimmed or cut back
- Under rocks in the garden
- In cars, appliances and furniture that has been put outside and is no longer being used
- In and around trash and garbage that has been left on the ground
- In holes under buildings
Where do rats live inside?
- In the insulation of walls or ceilings
- Inside the crawl spaces
- Behind or under cupboards, counters, bathtubs and shower stalls
- Near hot water heaters and furnaces
- In basements, attics and wherever things are stored in boxes, paper or cloth
What types of food bring rats into my yard and neighborhood?
- Garbage that rats can get into, like garbage cans with loose lids, plastic or paper bags, and litter.
- Food for pets and birds that has not been eaten. Birdseed on the ground, pet food in pet dishes, bread crumbs, etc.
- Fruits and berries that have fallen to the ground.
- Compost pile or worm bin that isn’t taken care of the right way (do not put meat, fish, poultry, or dairy in the compost)
- Dog droppings
What food do rats eat once they are inside the house?
- THE SAME FOODS WE DO!
- Foods, fats, oils that have been spilled and left on counters, floors, appliances and tables
- Grains, like cereal, oats, rice and vegetables like potatoes and carrots that are in cardboard boxes and plastic bags
- Pet food in boxes or bags
- Any garbage that is not in a can with a tight lid
How to keep rats away from your home:
- First of all, do not give food and shelter to these unwanted guests.
- The time to act is before the signs (droppings) of a rat or mouse.
- Stack fire wood 18 inches off the ground and away from all buildings.
- Birdhouses and seed should be on poles and in trays rats can’t get.
- Keep garbage can lids closed tightly.
- Plant bushes so they will stay at least 3 feet from your house.
- Keep yards and alleys clean. Take junk to the dump!
- If you feed them, they will stay. Pick up fruit and vegetables in your yard.
- Do not compost any animal products (fish, meat, chicken, cheese, butter). Keep lids tight.
- Use only rodent resistant composters.
- In basements keep any food in closed containers that rats can’t chew through.
- Cover all openings to your house. Rats can get into very small places.
- Do not leave your pet food outside. If your pet doesn’t eat it, the rats will.
- Roof rats get into your house from tree branches that hang over the roof. Keep trees cut back and cover any openings in the eves.