• Halloween Safety Tips For Pets

    Posted on October 18th, 2012
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    All you need to know for Halloween safety for your pets.

    We like going through Clear the Air’s older blogs and thought this would be useful to share once again with our readers.  The holidays, starting with Halloween, are a fun time but you should take some precautions to make sure your pets are safe and just as happy as you during the holidays.

    Check out our Halloween safety blog from last year:

    Halloween is a fun time for kids and adults, but it can also be scary for animals if you’re not careful. Any holiday brings an increased risk of harm and health problems for animals when candy and decorations are involved, but Halloween can be especially risky for a number of reasons. We encourage everyone to have a safe and fun holiday, but please keep the safety and well-being of your pets in mind!

    Here are some tips to keeping your pet safe during the Halloween season:

    1. Never leave your dog outside unattended – this is a generally safe rule to follow, but it is particularly important on Halloween. It is a sad truth that disturbed individuals have been known to injure and even kill pets on Halloween. No matter how safe your neighborhood may be, Halloween often brings out the pranksters and vandals, so don’t take any chances and keep your dog inside with you where you know he is safe.

    2. Most people will agree that there is nothing cuter than a dog in costume.  However, as appealing as your dolled-up pup may be, it is important to always keep your dog’s happiness, safety and comfort in mind.

    If you are going to put your dog in costume, make sure it fits properly and does not pose a risk of strangulation. Remove any loose accessories that could be choked on such as ribbons or buttons. If your dog seems even the slightest bit uncomfortable, please reconsider your costume choice. A ballerina beagle may look adorable, but your dog does not know why he is wearing the getup and may do whatever it takes to get out of it, including chewing through the fabric.

    3. Everyone knows the best part of Halloween is the candy, but unfortunately this is one of the main reasons that vets see an increase of sick animals around this holiday. Dogs have an incredible sense of smell and will likely notice the increase of sweets in the house. Keep all types of candy away from your dog!

    Most people already know that chocolate is toxic to dogs and can make them very sick. But chocolate is not the only sweet treat that poses a risk. Sugar-free candy contains a chemical called Xylitol that can make dogs severely ill even in small doses. Candy foil and wrappers can be just as harmful, as they can cause choking or a blockage in a dog’s digestive tract. If you have kids, let them know that the dog cannot share their Halloween treats.

    4. If you put up Halloween decorations, be sure to keep them well out of your dog’s reach. Dogs gravitate towards things that are shiny, small and/or inedible – all of which can cause serious health problems! Candles, lights and cords are a huge safety hazard for all pets. A curious dog that gets too close could be burned or electrocuted. A wagging tail can knock over a candle and start a fire in no time at all! Instead of putting a candle in your pumpkin consider using a small battery-powered light, which is safer and lasts longer!

    5. Make sure your dog is in a safe, secure place when the trick-or-treaters come knocking at your door. The continuous knocking or ringing of a doorbell combined with the constant opening and closing of the door will offer plenty of opportunities for your pet to dart out and run away.

    In addition, strangers arriving in spooky masks can be very frightening and could cause even the friendliest dogs to behave aggressive or territorially as a result of stress and fear. To avoid unnecessary stress or unpleasant confrontations with the neighborhood children, I suggest keeping your dog in a separate room. Try leaving a radio or TV on to drown out the sound of the many visitors.

    6. No matter what your friends said in college, a drunk dog is NOT a happy dog. Never ever give any amount of alcohol to any animal. If you think it would be funny to see your dog intoxicated, think again. Alcohol is essentially poison to dogs and can cause symptoms including but not limited to: vomiting, disorientation, seizures, irregular heartbeat, heart attack and death. If you have a party make sure you clean up any leftover drinks, as some dogs are attracted to the sweetness of beer and wine.

    While keeping your family safe during Halloween is always a must, keeping your pets healthy and safe is also essential. If you have kids, I recommend sharing these tips with them so they can learn how to be responsible and keep their beloved pet safe while enjoying the Halloween festivities.  Please safe, be smart and have a very happy Halloween!

  • The Low Down On Halloween Pet Costumes

    Posted on October 16th, 2012
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    Halloween pet costumes – safe or not?

    Halloween is upon us and there are many cute Halloween outfits for pets in the stores right now.  We’d like to share some helpful information on making sure your pet is safe with the costume you choose, thanks to the ASPCA.  Check it out:

    With Halloween just around the corner, you might be tempted to make your cat or dog a star by dressing him up in the cutest mini-sized costume you can find. But wait—is trick-or-treat apparel really safe for your furry friends?

    Our experts suggest putting your pet in a costume only if you’re sure he will enjoy it. Some pets love the limelight: wearing a costume and posing for pictures is a blast! Others prefer to stick to their birthday suits for all occasions, and being dressed like a pumpkin for their pet parents’ amusement can cause unnecessary stress.

    If you decide to have your pet wear a costume, here are some helpful safety tips to keep in mind:

    • Your pet’s Halloween garb should not constrict his movement or hearing, or impede his ability to breathe, bark or meow. Be sure to try on costumes in advance—and if your furry friend seems distressed, you’ll want to ditch the mini-pirate hat and vest.
    • Examine your pet’s costume and make sure it doesn’t have any small, dangling or easily chewed-off pieces that he could choke on. Also, ill-fitting outfits can get caught on external objects or your pet, leading to injury.
    • IDs, please! Make sure your dog or cat has proper identification on underneath that cute costume. If for any reason your pet escapes and becomes lost during Halloween festivities, a collar and tags and/or a microchip can be a lifesaver.
  • Disaster Preparedness For Pets

    Posted on October 8th, 2012
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    Don’t be caught unprepared when a disaster hits.

    If you experience a fire or flood in your home, you want to make sure you have taken all necessary precautions to get your family and pets out of the house safe.

    Clear the Air would like to share some helpful disaster preparedness tips courtesy of the ASPCA.

    1. Pet Identification. Identify your pets at all times with collars or microchips. Collars should display your name, telephone number and an emergency contact. While collars can become lost, microchips are a secure means of assuring that your pet is identified via an electronic device that is painlessly implanted in your pet’s shoulder area. Since animals may escape during disasters, permanent identification will increase your chances of retrieving your pet(s).

    2. Evacuation Supplies. Be prepared for emergency evacuation by having pet carriers on-hand and in an accessible place near the front door. An “Evacsak” is an alternative to a carrier and is similar to a pillowcase but ensures safe pet transport. For reptiles or fish, make sure you have lightweight plastic tanks that can be used for transporting animals in a hurry.

    For dogs, keep an extra leash hanging near the front door where friends or neighbors can find it. All dogs should have collars and leashes, especially since a frightened dog may slip away if held only by the collar.

    3. Evacuation Stickers. Affix a pet evacuation sticker on your front door or on the front door of your refrigerator indicating the number of pets residing in your household and an emergency contact number in case the animals must be removed without your knowledge. Without this, rescuers may not be aware that there are animals in the home, particularly in the case of cats that may hide when frightened.

    4. Emergency Support System. Inform your landlord, neighbors, friends and relatives that you have pets in your home that may need their care in the case of an emergency. Make sure that at least two individuals have keys to your home and are familiar with your pets. Consider starting a “buddy system” in your neighborhood to ensure that someone will check on your animals in a disaster, and agree to do the same for them.

    Identify several possible locations where you can take your pet(s) if you need to evacuate your home.

    And, before disaster strikes, contact your veterinarian to see if he/she has a disaster plan. Know where you can take your animal for medical attention in the event that it becomes necessary due to a disaster.

    5. Medical Records. Keep copies of your pets’ medical records on hand so that if they are treated in the event of an emergency, the veterinarians know about any prior health conditions or medical needs. If your pet requires medication, always have a back-up supply on hand in case a disaster strikes and you cannot get to your veterinarian.

    6. Emergency Supplies. You should have the following supplies on hand at all times:

    • A 2-week supply of pet food and water
    • A 2-week supply of cat litter and plastic bags for waste disposal
    • A small container of soap for cleaning purposes
    • First Aid kit and manual
    • You may wish to purchase a crate for your cat or dog

    In general, you should always leave plenty of fresh water available for pets left alone at home. While leaving extra food out is inadvisable due to the health hazard of obesity, extra water may protect the animals from dehydration if they become stranded at home.

    7. Retrieving a Lost Pet. Know where the local animal shelters and rescue organizations are in your area. You may need to visit them to look for a missing pet. It is important that you start looking for a missing animal as soon as you realize that it is gone, since some shelters may not be able to house animals for long periods of time.

    Take several pictures of your pets and keep them with you at all times. You will need them in the event that you become separated from your pets and need to identify them. Similarly, be ready to describe any distinguishing markings or characteristics of your pets.

  • Success Story From The San Diego Humane Society

    Posted on September 28th, 2012
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    We love seeing success stories from the San Diego Humane Society.  This one is special, as this kitty is blind.  Check out Joey’s story below.

    Joey – The Sweetest Cat

    joey3.pngWhen Joey was just a baby, I was fortunate to be able to help foster him. He was a spunky tuxedo kitten (and quite photogenic!). I was planning to adopt him, but for reasons beyond my control, he went to another home. I was devastated.

    A year-and-a-half later, Joey was back at the San Diego Humane Society, up for adoption, but now he was blind. Thanks to the wonderful staff at the Humane Society, I was finally able to adopt Joey, who is now at his forever home. Joey has Progressive Retinal Atrophy (PRA), a rare genetic form of blindness, and is now completely blind. But most people don’t even notice unless they pay close attention. He has memorized the house and moves around without hesitation (as long as I don’t rearrange the furniture!). He is an indoor-only cat for obvious reasons, but he plays with his two sisters, my dogs Wiley and Daisy. Joey and Daisy share my lap and nap together every evening.  (Interestingly, Wiley also has PRA, and is also blind, and loves to play fetch!)

    joey2.png

    Both Joey and Wiley have really opened my eyes (no pun intended!) to just how adaptable animals with challenges can be. They are the sweetest pets I have ever owned and are no more difficult to care for than sighted animals. They see the eye doctor once a year, and I have to be careful when walking Wiley to make sure she doesn’t injure her eyes, but other than that, they are normal, loving pets. Joey has brought so much love into my life.

    I am so grateful to the San Diego Humane Society for making my family complete!

    – Nancy Baisch, MD

  • A Cat’s Visit To The Vet – Not The Car!!!

    Posted on September 27th, 2012
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    There are very few cats that actually don’t mind or even enjoy having to ride in the car. Clear the Air would like to share some car ride tips for your cat.

    The most common car trip is usually to the vet, and that event causes enough anxiety by itself. Getting stressed out by the car ride to the vet may make it difficult to tell what is “normal” and what is stress-related on the physical exam for some cats. Here are some tips to reduce travel stress to the vet’s office and beyond.

    Cat Transportation
    For the safety of the driver and the cat, carriers should always be used for transporting cats (dogs too). Cats can startle easily, jump out of the smallest opening or basically interfere with the driver’s duties when they are stressed. The carrier should be cleansed after each use with a non-toxic soap or cleanser.

    The Carrier
    Letting your cat explore the cat carrier at their own pace and without any pending trip is always a good idea. Offering a treat or small amount of food in this non-stressed situation may incite some curiosity and comfort, too.

    Short Trips
    While it may be considered a hassle to take your cat for a quick ride to the post office or bank, short trips of no consequence (i.e. a vet visit) may help reduce car anxiety and build confidence in your cat with each car ride. It is important to stress the need for short trips so your cat will not be left alone in warm weather, where heatstroke in hot cars poses serious risk.

    Weight Check at the Vet’s Office
    Most veterinary offices are happy to do a quick weigh-in. Be sure to call ahead to check office hours and avoid busy times. The receptionist should be able to recommend a best day and time for a weigh-in.

    Your cat may be weighed alone on the scale or in the carrier on the scale (subtracting the weight of the carrier) to become familiar with the veterinary office. A one-pound gain or loss in an average 10-pound cat represents 10% of their body weight, so tracking weight is always a healthy idea.

    Creative Scheduling
    Speak to your veterinarian about scheduling your cat’s appointment during quieter times of the day. Some veterinarians have cat-only entrances and waiting rooms which also help to keep cats calm.Feline Only Practices
    Some veterinarians specialize in feline medicine and their practice is limited to cats only. This is a great option for cats who are OK with the car ride but get stressed out by the dogs and noise of a mixed practice.

    House Call Veterinarian
    If the thought of going to the vet stresses you and your cat out, consider utilizing a mobile veterinarian. Ask your vet if they do any house calls, and if not, if they can recommend a house call vet in your area. Friends, family, groomers and boarding kennels may also know of someone to recommend.Sedation Medication
    If your cat is one that will not be calmed in the car or at the veterinary office, please speak to your veterinarian about the possibility of giving a light sedation at home prior to the trip. This may maximize the veterinary exam effectiveness while reducing your cat’s stress.

  • Cat Owner Tips

    Posted on September 12th, 2012
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    Tips for cat owners.

    If you have a cat as a pet, check out these helpful tips provided by Clear the Air to ensure your cat is properly taken care of.

    Collars:  All collars on cats are dangerous unless the collar has an elastic insert or is the “breakaway” style.  Cats can strangle if the collar gets caught on something, or injure themselves trying to get the collar off.  If you put a collar on a kitten, please be sure to check that it does not become too tight as the kitten grows! If your cat goes outside, prevent the cat from killing birds by adding a small bell to the collar.

    Feeding: Do not feed your cat food made for dogs or use any dog care products on cats.  Dog food and “human” table food lack essential vitamins and minerals cats need such as taurine – an essential amino acid for cats.  Lack of taurine in the diet causes blindness, serious heart problems (dilated cardiomyopathy), and may promote urinary tract problems as well.  Feed only well-balanced cat food, appropriate to the age and activity level of your cat.  Avoid dairy products!  Dog flea preparations often kill cats.  Likewise, medications, shampoos and other products made for dogs (or humans) can be toxic to cats. Never give aspirin to a cat!

    Surgical Claw Removal or Declawing: This is an extreme measure in which the entire last part of the ten front toes are amputated.  A graphic comparison in human terms would be cutting off a person’s finger at the last joint.  General anesthesia is used for this surgery, which always has a risk of disability or death associated with it.  Because declawing provides no medical benefit to cats, even slight risk can be considered unacceptable.  In addition, the recovery from declawing can be painful and lengthy and may involve postoperative complications such as infections, hemorrhage, and nail regrowth.  The latter may subject the cat to additional surgery.  Declawing not only robs a cat of an integral means of movement and defense, but it can also cause cats to undergo a profound personality change, in which they may become extremely timid or unusually aggressive.  Other options include the use of scratching posts, adhesive plastic nail caps, regularly trimming the cat’s nails, and discouragement of unwanted behavior. Methods of discouragement include placing a sheet over the target furniture or using aluminum foil or double-sided tape on the object.  It is also possible to discourage scratching by using a scent which cats generally do not like, such as the fresh smell of citrus.

    Indoor cat: It is important to consider making your cat a strictly indoor pet.  The list of risks to outdoor cats include poison (like antifreeze), injury (falls, cars, attacks by other animals or humans, or broken glass), parasites (fleas, ticks, or worms), disease (feline leukemia virus, feline immunodeficiency virus, feline infectious peritonitis, upper respiratory viruses, etc.), and theft. Believe it or not, pets are regularly stolen by unscrupulous individuals for sale to the animal research industry, for cult use, or as food for snakes. Keep your cat indoors, and you will have a healthier, more socialized, and content family companion.

    Keep your pet entertained: Provide your indoor cat with toys and a tall, sturdy scratching post made of a rough material such as sisal (hemp-like rope) or a strong woven material (carpeting is rarely a good material for a post), regular claw-clipping (we do not recommend de-clawing!!!), nutritious food, fresh water, and lots of love and companionship.  You will both enjoy it!

  • Is Your Cat Sick? Signs To Look For

    Posted on September 11th, 2012
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    We all want the best for our beloved pets and keeping an eye on changes in your cat can help detect any changes in health early enough before they become fatal or an expensive trip to the vet.

    Check out the following signs your cat may not be feeling his best:

    The Fur – Cats are extremely clean creatures with very good personal hygiene habits; they will almost always take care of their own grooming. A healthy cat’s fur should be soft, clean and have a slightly glossy appearance. If you see any visible changes in the condition of your cat’s coat, the fur becomes dry, matted, dull or almost greasy, this could be a sign your cat is not well. A cat that suddenly stops preening is almost certainly not well. On the other hand, a cat who ‘over grooms’ so that the skin looks sore and red and missing patches of fur could be a sign of stress, a flea infestation, allergy or a skin condition.

    Changes To The Cat’s Eyes – Cat’s eyes are extremely striking to look at and they all vary from cat to cat. They can have small, vertically slit pupils, the spindle-shaped cat’s eye or naturally dilated looking pupils. A cat may have different colored eyes. If a cat is unwell, the eyes will show it. If your cat’s pupils seem to change size, either both of them or just in one eye this can spell out trouble in the cat’s nervous system. Pupils with a milky or even filmy look may indicate vision problems.

    Ears – Like the coat, a cat will do a good job at maintaining the cleanliness of his ears. With the exception of a bit of ear wax, the ears should usually be fairly clean. If on inspection of your cat’s ears you notice any redness, swelling or a bluish or yellow tinge inside the ears, contact your vet. Same goes for excessively itchy ears, if your cat can not stop scratching his ears it may be ear mites. A cat’s ears are particularly sensitive in extreme temperatures, due to lack of blood flow in the area, your cat could get frostbite on the tips of its ears so keep a close watch on your cat’s ears in winter.

    Appetite – Keeping a close eye on your cat’s eating habits can determine its overall health. If your cat has always been a vicarious eater and suddenly shows no interest in food or eats very half heatedly he may not be 100%. But if your cat stops eating all together or struggles to keep food down, this is a serious sign and should be investigated by a vet.

    Mouth, Teeth And Gums – If you’ve ever tried to open your cat’s mouth you’ll know it can be somewhat of a challenge, but your cat’s mouth and gums are very strong indicators of illness. The color of the skin inside the mouth should have a pink tinge off of it, skin that is white or yellow toned could be a sign of anemia or liver damage. Skin that shows a slight blue tinge is a cause of concern as this could show poisoning or a respiratory problem. However, some changes to the mouth and gums are normal, the cat’s mouth may take on the same color as its coat this is generally normal as the cat gets older but should be checked out by a vet. Teeth should be inspected from time to time, tartar build up can not only cause bad breath but can cause infections that can enter the cat’s bloodstream and end up infecting his organs.

  • Featured Pet at San Diego Humane Society

    Posted on September 7th, 2012
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    Check out Abigail!  She is an employee pick at The San Diego Humane Society and is ready for her forever home!

    Check out the bio about Abigail and why she is so special:

    Our Director of Operations for the Central Campus, Morgan H., is happy to select Abigail as her employee pick.  She describes Abigail as adorable, sweet, and silly at times but her outgoing and friendly personality is what attracted Morgan the most, who as a cat lover herself, considers those traits to be perfect for any family who is ready to adopt her.

    Morgan says that every time she passes by, Abigail is ready to say hi and draw a smile for her. Her bright yellow eyes in her cute little black face can tell you instantly how she feels and will have you hypnotized with love.  When she plays, she tends to go for interactive games and her favorite toys are wands and anything with feathers.

    Abigail is just adorable in every way – when she plays, when she roams, and even when she sleeps. If you think Abigail would make a great addition to your family, visit our Airport Road Campus to meet her in person or call customer service at 619-299-7012.

    Would you like to adopt Abigail into your home?  Call the San Diego Humane Society at 619-299-7012.

  • Moving With Your Cat

    Posted on September 5th, 2012
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    If you are a cat owner, you probably know that most cats are not big fans of change.

    We would like to share some tips from the ASPCA on making a move to a new home a less stressful occasion.

    If they could chose, cats would prefer to stay where they’re already comfortable and settled in. But, at some point in their lives, most cats must move on to a new location. Making the transition as stress-free as possible for your feline companion can have big benefits, including reducing the risk of fear-based house soiling, excessive meowing and crying, hiding, escape attempts and aggression.

    Moving a cat to a new house involves three basic aspects: pre-move preparations, the move itself and settling into the new home. All three sections below apply to a move with a resident pet. The third section is most important if you’re only trying to integrate a new cat into your existing household.

    Preparation

    • Allow your cat time to get used to his carrier. Leave it sitting out with the door open and a comfy bed inside. Occasionally leave a couple of cat treats in it so your cat can find them on his own. Start feeding your cat in the carrier. If your cat is reluctant to enter the carrier to eat, start by just placing his dish next to it. After a few days, put the dish just inside the carrier, right near the opening. Then, over a week or two, gradually move the dish toward the back of the carrier so your cat has to step a little further inside each day. Eventually, place the dish at the very back of the carrier to your cat must go all the way into it to eat.
    • Put out your moving boxes a couple weeks before you need to start packing so your cat has time to get used to their presence. If your cat is nervous while you’re packing, he’ll probably be happier closed in a quiet room, away from the activity and noise. It’s also a good idea to confine your cat if you think he might try to hide in one of the boxes.
    • Try to keep your cat’s daily routine as stable as possible. Stick closely to his regular schedule for feeding, play and attention. A feeder with a timer can be helpful to make sure your cat eats at the same time each day.
    • If your cat is very skittish, nervous or easily stressed, speak to your vet about using anti-anxiety medication to make the moving process easier on him.

    The Move

    • To prevent your cat from dashing out the door while movers are going in and out, close him in a bathroom with food, water, a bed and litter box. Place a sign on the door asking the movers to keep the door shut.
    • Feed your cat a very small breakfast on moving day to reduce stomach upset.
    • While in transit, resist the urge to open your cat’s carrier to soothe him. A scared cat may try to dash out. Only open the carrier in a secure area and when absolutely necessary.
    • Carry a roll of packing tape in case the carrier needs emergency repairs along the way.

    Settling Into the New House

    • First, cat-proof the new house. Tuck away electrical cords, plug up nooks where a cat could get stuck, make sure that all windows have secure screens, remove any poisonous houseplants and confirm that no pest-control poison traps have been left anywhere in the house.
    • Immediately take your cat to a room that will remain relatively quiet. Before opening the carrier, set up your cat’s food and water dishes, litter box and bed. Place some cat treats around the room to encourage your cat to explore.
    • Keep your cat in this one “home-base” room for his first several days in the new house. This will allow him to gradually get used to the sights, sounds and smells of his new home without feeling overwhelmed. Keeping your cat in one room will also make it easy for him to find his litter box, food and water. If you’re adding a new cat to a home where there are existing pets, please see Introducing Your Dog to a New Cat or Introducing Your Cat to a New Cat.
    • Spend time with your cat in his home-base room, at first doing low-key activities like reading or watching TV. When he begins to explore, offer your cat attention, treats and playtime.
    • When the flurry of unpacking is over, gradually give your cat access to the rest of the house, one room at a time. If it’s not possible to close doors to limit his access, closely supervise your cat during short exploration sessions.
    • Provide a second litter box where you’ll want to keep one permanently. Keep the box available in the home-base room for at least a few weeks. Once your cat has settled in, you can remove that box. Alternatively, you can keep the home-base litter box but gradually transfer it to a preferable location. To make sure your cat doesn’t lose track of where it is, move the box just a foot or so away from the home-base room and toward your preferred location each day.
  • Eliminating Cat Litter Box Odor

    Posted on September 4th, 2012
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    It is cat month during the month of September! Get rid of smelly litter box odors.

    If you have a cat you have probably noticed the litter box aroma once in a while.  Not only do you not want to smell the sand box, but your cat doesn’t want to have to either.  Clear the Air can make the litter box easy on everyone with their Cat Urine Odor Eliminator product.

    Remove cat urine odors in carpets, concrete, wood floors, tile, furniture, and litter boxes with out chemicals or fragrances. This unique form of Earth Care Products Mineral can also be sprinkled on top of your cats litter box to completely eliminate odors.

    Clear the Air does not have to come into contact with the odor producer; it will pull the odors from the carpet pad, and sub-floor.  It draws in odors like a powerful magnet. The odors are then adsorbed, and neutralized without any fragrances.

    Clear The Air does not cover up odors; it literally “clears the air” leaving the air fresh and clean.

    Next time you go to clean out your cat’s litter box, sprinkle some Clear the Air in the litter box and your cat will thank you…so will your nose!

    Clear The Air is made from an all natural mineral, is non toxic and biodegradable and safe for Planet Earth. It is also safe around children and pets even if eaten.