Cat Grooming – Helpful Tips To Prevent Vet Bills

While cats are very self-sufficient, making them an easy keeper as a pet, they do sometimes need a little assistance in the grooming department.

To ensure optimum health and prevent costly vet bills, check out some of Clear the Air’s grooming tips for your cat.

Trim Your Cat’s Claws: Trimming claws needn’t strike terror in the heart of you or your cat. Even an adult cat that is unaccustomed to nail clipping can grow to accept the procedure, although it’s best to start when the cat is young and everything is novel. Kittens’ tiny needle-like claws should be trimmed once a week; by the time a cat is about eight months old, you can reduce the trimming to once every two to four weeks for the rest of the cat’s life.

Place your cat on a table or hold him on your lap, or kneel down and clamp him between your legs. Grip a paw firmly and gently press on the pad to expose the claw. Don’t forget to also trim the dewclaws that are further up along the paw. If you have a polydactyl cat, one with extra toes similar to thumbs, the claws in the folds between the paws and the “thumbs” also need trimming.

Using special clippers, trim off the clear, curved part of the claw in one rapid motion, cutting straight across and making sure to stay at least one-tenth of an inch away from the thicker part containing the vein, or “quick.” When in doubt, cut off less claw and do the job more often. If you do accidentally cut the vein, stay calm. The claw will bleed, but your demeanor will affect your cat’s reaction. Ideally, have clotting powder, a styptic pencil, cornstarch, or soft bar-soap on hand before you begin and apply it to the end of the claw. Or, you can press a gauze pad, clean cloth, or tissue over the damaged nail for several minutes until the bleeding stops.

Some cats (even first-time adults) will allow you to cut all their claws right away. For less cooperative cats, start by simply handling their paws more and more, pressing lightly on the paw pads to extend the claws. Once this is accepted, try clipping one or two claws, stopping and letting your cat go whenever he starts to resist; eventually, you will cut them all. A team effort may be necessary to contain a writhing cat, with one person firmly grasping the loose skin at the scruff of the neck or holding the cat wrapped in a towel with just one paw at a time free, leaving the second person to handle the task of clipping.

Get The Eyes and Ears Clean: Check inside the ears every week and if you see a waxy residue, wipe it off with a cotton ball moistened with a small amount of feline ear cleaner or baby oil. (Never use a swab on a stick; if your cat moves suddenly, you may injure his ear canal or eardrum.) Hold the earflap gently and dab carefully with the cotton ball. If your cat fidgets during cleaning, restrain him as you would when cutting his claws.

Brushing Your Cat: Although cats are tidy creatures by nature and groom themselves, they still need regular brushing. In addition to removing loose hair that would otherwise be swallowed or left on furniture, brushing promotes good circulation, stimulates the skin, and keeps the coat shiny. It’s also a way to bond with your cat, as well as to check for any body changes that may signal a visit to the vet.

The procedure is much the same for short-hair and longhair cats, but the tools will differ, depending on the length and texture of your cat’s fur.

Be sure to check a longhair cat for mats before you start brushing and very gently untangle any you find using your fingers or a wide-toothed comb. Soak more tenacious knots with detangling liquid or spray.

If a mat won’t come apart, you can, if you’re very careful, snip it out with blunt-tipped scissors. Your cat’s skin is very sensitive, as well as being loose, and it’s fairly easy to make an accidental nick. Protect your cat by placing a fine-toothed comb between the mat and his skin. The alternative is to have mats removed by a professional groomer; if your cat is badly matted, this is the only option.

Begin grooming by passing the brush along the cat’s head and back. By following the same line you would if you were petting him, chances are the cat will relax, lulled by the pleasant sensation. Then, brush down the length of each side. As you go, stop often to clean the brush of collected hair.

Next, brush down from below the chin along the throat and chest. To brush the inside of your cat’s leg, hold him against your chest and reach over the outside of the leg. Your cat may object when you get to such areas as the rear thighs, the region where the legs join the body, and the belly.

Be gentle and reassuring, but persevere without overdoing it. If the cat is getting anxious, stop and continue later; otherwise, you risk turning grooming into a hateful experience.

Do the tail last, one small section at a time, carefully combing in the direction that the hair grows. Then, repeat the sequence with a fine-toothed comb, taking particular care on sensitive areas, to pick up any remaining loose hairs.

Bathing Your Cat: An older or injured cat may not be able to keep itself adequately clean and may need to be bathed. Some cats become very agitated during the process, however, so it’s up to you to make bathing as stress-free as possible for all participants. You’ll probably want a helper so one of you can hold the cat while the other does the shampooing. Both of you will probably get quite wet, so have lots of towels at the ready. It’s also possible that you may get scratched, so take a few moments to trim the claws first.

Placing something in the sink or tub that your cat can grip with his claws — a window screen, rubber mat, or several thick towels — may help him feel slightly more in control and less inclined to struggle.

Never dump your cat into a sink full of water; total immersion is not the idea here. Instead, fill the sink with just enough warm water to rinse him easily.

Hold your cat firmly, with one hand grasping his front legs, and place him in the water. Pour water over him with a small container and use a washcloth to wet more delicate areas such as the face and ears.

Standard shampoos formulated for cats should be rubbed in thoroughly, and fully rinsed. Any traces of shampoo left on the cat’s coat can cause irritation; so don’t rush through this stage. If you are washing the cat with a flea shampoo, follow the directions for the product to the letter. After properly rinsing your cat, wrap him in a thick towel and hold him close to absorb the excess water. Continue drying by carefully squeezing the towel against his body and pulling it away again.

You can gently rub short-hair cats with a towel, but this may cause matting in cats with longer coats. A small hair dryer can be useful (unless your cat is frightened by the noise of the motor). Keep the hair dryer on its lowest setting and never point it in your cat’s face. Once he is dry, brush him thoroughly and compliment him effusively on how wonderful he looks!

Dental Hygiene: As part of a regular checkup, your vet will look for signs of plaque and tartar buildup on your cat’s teeth. Left unchecked, periodontal disease can actually contribute to heart, liver, or kidney disease. If a significant problem has begun to develop, a thorough cleaning, requiring the cat to be anesthetized, will have to be scheduled.

To avoid the bother and expense of such cleaning, which is typically required every few years, brush your cat’s teeth at least every other day. This is not as difficult, or crazy, as it might sound, as long as you introduce the procedure very slowly. For the first few days, sit quietly with your cat and gently stroke the outside of his cheeks. Then, let him lick a small quantity of cat dentifrice — never human toothpaste; off your finger.

Next, place a small quantity of the paste on a cat-sized toothbrush or gauze square. Gently push back the cat’s top lip with your thumb and brush one or two teeth and the neighboring gums in a circular motion, pressing very lightly. Over several days, gradually brush a larger number of teeth. After each short session, reward your cat with a treat, preferably one for tartar control.

Animal Fosters Needed at the San Diego Humane Society

The San Diego Humane Society is looking for volunteers!

Calling all Warm Hearts and Homes! The San Diego Humane Society cares for thousands of animals annually and many of them get a head start in foster care.

Animals that are candidates for their Foster Program include animals less than eight weeks of age; mothers with litters; animals with minor medical needs; animals recovering from surgery or illness; and animals that need further behavior evaluation or socialization. The San Diego Humane Society is looking for applicants with big hearts and a special commitment to provide a warm and loving environment for the animals in need. The San Diego Humane Society provides any supplies, special medication or food needed. All the animal needs, is you!

Foster is the temporary removal of an animal from, in this case, the San Diego Humane Society and SPCA, to care for it until the animal is ready to be placed up for adoption.

Temporary shelter in a volunteer’s home can make all the difference to an animal that needs a little extra care to be ready for adoption.  Cats and dogs with litters, animals under 8 weeks of age, and animals with minor, treatable illnesses are given a second chance at life through the work of our Foster Care Volunteers.  The foster volunteers also grant The San Diego Humane Society the opportunity to free up more kennels for more animals that are in need of immediate care.

The San Diego Humane Society provides all the necessary training, supplies, and support the foster family will need to care for their foster animals, including food, bowls, bedding, toys, litter, medication, and any veterinary services.

Even if you aren’t in the San Diego area, you can also volunteer or foster at your local humane society.  Volunteering is a great way to spend time with animals if you can’t have them in your home.

Cat Care Tips

Dog Run or Lawn Odors?

Do you have a dog run or an area of the lawn that your dog frequents?

You also may have artificial grass which traps in the odor from urine or feces.  Sometimes, even though the area is outside, the odor is very noticeable.

Clear the Air’s Lawn/Yard Odor Eliminator will eliminate the odors and make hanging out in your yard pleasant once again.  This unique blend will absorb pet urine and feces odors from lawns and garden areas without chemical or fragrances.  No need to worry about harming your lawn or garden as the mineral is completely non toxic and even acts as an excellent time-released nitrogen fertilizer.

This unique form of Earth Care Products Mineral can be sprinkled on your lawn and garden areas as needed to eliminate odors. Odors will be completely eliminated Granules are totally safe for all lawns and vegetation. Clear the Air does not have to come into contact with the odor producer; it will pull the odors from the entire area.

Clear The Air is made from an all natural mineral, is non toxic and biodegradable and safe for Planet Earth. It is also safe around children and pets even if eaten.

During the month of May, we are running a buy two get two free discount!  If you buy two canisters of Lawn Odor Eliminator GET TWO MORE CANISTERS FREE!  Offer good at our online store, click here.  Must have 4 canisters in your cart and enter “lawn” into the redemption code and you will automatically get the price for two canisters off your bill!

Cat Anatomy Facts

Cool Cat Anatomy Facts brought to you by Clear the Air!

Remember PETCO now carries our Cat Urine Odor Eliminator at all their stores.  Stop in to pick some up!

• Cats can’t taste sweets.
• The cat’s front paw has 5 toes, but the back paws have 4. Some cats are born with as many as 7 front toes and extra back toes (polydactl).
• A cat has 32 muscles in each ear.
• Neutering a cat extends it’s life span by two or three years

• A cat’s tongue consists of small “hooks,” which come in handy when tearing up food
• Cats must have fat in their diet because they can’t produce it on their own.
• Cat’s urine glows under a black light.
• Cats have a third eyelid called a haw and you will probably only see it when kitty isn’t feeling well.
• A cat sees about six times better than a human at night because of a layer of extra reflecting cells which absorb light.
• Cats sleep 16 to 18 hours per day
• Cats are the only animal that walk on their claws, not the pads of their feet.
• Newborn kittens have closed ear canals that don’t begin to open for nine days.
• A kittens eyes are always blue at first
• A cat cannot see directly under its nose.
• It is a common belief that cats are color blind. However, recent studies have shown that cats can see blue, green and red
• Cats with white fur and skin on their ears are very prone to sunburn.
• Siamese kittens are born white.
• A cat’s jaws cannot move sideways.
• Cats have over one hundred vocal sounds, while dogs only have about ten.
• A cat can jump even seven times as high as it is tall.
• A cat is pregnant for about 58-65 days.
• A cat may have three to seven kittens every four months
• Cats step with both left legs, then both right legs when they walk or run. The only other animals to do this are the giraffe and the camel
• If a male cat is both orange and black it is most likely sterile
• The color of the points in Siamese cats is heat related. Cool areas are darker
• Cats lack a true collarbone. Because of this, a cat can generally squeeze their bodies through any space they can get their heads through.
• There are tiny, parasitic worms that can live in a cat’s stomach. These worms cause frequent vomiting.
• A cat’s brain is more similar to a man’s brain than that of a dog.
• A cat has more bones than a human; humans have 206, the cat has 230.
• Cats have 30 vertebrae–5 more than humans have.
• Cat have 500 skeletal muscles (humans have 650).
• A cat can rotate its ears independently 180 degrees, and can turn in the direction of sound 10 times faster than those of the best watchdog
• Cats’ hearing is much more sensitive than humans and dogs.
• Cats’ hearing stops at 65 khz (kilohertz); humans’ hearing stops at 20 khz.
• In relation to their body size, cats have the largest eyes of any mammal.
• A cat’s field of vision is about 185 degrees.
• Blue-eyed, white cats are often deaf.

Do you have any other cool cat facts?  Share them with us on our blog!

San Diego Humane Society Event – Spring Fling Doggie Cafe

Join the San Diego Humane Society’s Doggie Cafe Event this Friday evening!

Have fun socializing with other dog lovers and their dogs while you practice teaching your dog how to be calm around exciting distractions like people, other dogs and food! Dogs should be friendly and on-leash. One dog per human handler please. Dogs should be at least 4 months old and up-to-date on all vaccines, including rabies, to attend.

Beverages, sandwiches, salads, and more available for purchase. Complimentary desserts and dog treats provided. Behavior and Training specialists “on-paw” to answer training questions.

Spring-themed photos will be available for $5.

$10 suggested cover charge for the event. RSVP on-line at The San Diego Humane Society or by calling 619-299-7012 ext 2230.

Date: Friday, May 11, 2012
Time: 6:00 PM – 8:00 PM
Address:
572 Airport Road
Oceanside, CA 92058

If you’d like to attend this event you can RSVP online, click here.

Why A Cat Can Benefit Seniors

Cats make wonderful pets for people of all ages.

Wherever you live, a cat can be an ideal pet for you.  There are many reasons why but we would like to focus on the benefits cats provide for senior citizens.

Cats can improve your health – Even though cats require fairly minimal care, the care they do require provides much-needed exercise for older owners. Even seniors who have arthritis or other physical limitations can easily care for cats. Because cats need us to care for them by scooping their boxes, feeding them and giving them fresh water, cats get us up and moving whether we want to or not! Caring for and feeding a cat calls for routines and activities seniors might not otherwise have, providing important mental stimulation. This not only benefits senior citizens’ overall health, but can help them live longer and healthier lives.

Cats can improve your mood – Seniors can become lonely, or even depressed, when they retire or lose their spouse, or when their children move away. Some seniors become depressed simply because they do not get out and about as much anymore. Studies show that pets help seniors overcome loneliness and depression by providing affection, company, entertainment and a sense of responsibility and purpose. Seniors with pets tend to get up, talk and smile much more than when there are no pets around.  Think about it, when you are home alone with your cat, do you usually say a few words to him?  It definitely makes being alone more enjoyable when you have your furry feline around.

Cats over dogs – Although dogs can also make great pets for some seniors and provide the same benefits as cat ownership, careful consideration should be given to the care, training and exercise requirements of a dog. Many older owners simply can’t keep up with a dog’s needs, which makes adopting a cat a much better choice. Unlike dogs, cats are happy staying indoors all the time.  Most adult cats require only 20 to 30 minutes of playtime per day, and interactive play does not require the owner to be mobile. A kitty fishing pole or laser toy lets senior cat owners engage their cat in play while sitting in their favorite chair. Cats are also very content to spend most of their time sleeping on their owner’s lap or bed which makes this pet a perfect fit for someone less active.

Important tips to keep in mind when choosing your new pet cat –

• Lifespan – Before acquiring any pet, it is important to consider the lifespan of the animal and what will happen in the event that the owner is no longer able to care for the pet. In many cases, seniors need to move into a living facility that does not allow pets, or the pet outlives them. Both dogs and cats can live 15 to 20 years, so it is important that seniors have a younger friend or family member who is willing to take responsibility for the pet if necessary.
• Is a kitten or adult cat better for your senior – Many people think that getting a kitten or puppy for a senior will help “keep them young,” when in reality, puppies and kittens often provide seniors with more stress than enjoyment. Choosing to adopt an adult cat or dog is generally a wise choice for seniors. Adult animals have fewer exercise and training demands, making them easier for seniors to keep up with. Additionally, older pets are also less likely to outlive their senior owner.
• Talk with shelters to find the right fit for your cat – Arrange to visit your local animal shelter to view the cats available for adoption. Talk to the staff and ask for a calm, easygoing, adult lap cat with minimal medical requirements. The last thing a senior wants is an antisocial cat or one who is prone to urinary tract infections! Once your senior loved one decides on a cat — or two! – you can help shop for pet supplies (including a collar and ID tag) and set everything up  in a convenient location for both owner and kitty.

Support – If you are getting a cat for the senior in your life, make sure you can provide follow-up care and support.  Some seniors are not able to get to the store for needed supplies, while others are dealing with health or behavior problems with the cat and don’t know what to do. Be sure to check in with your loved one and their kitty to make sure things are going well.

If you know of a senior who is having difficulty affording veterinary care or food for a pet, be sure to contact your local animal shelter, food bank or veterinary clinic. Most professionals in the animal field understand how important pets are to seniors, so they may offer low-cost services and supplies just for seniors.

Kitty Cool Down Tips for Summertime

With summertime approaching it is important to take extra steps to make sure your pets stay cool.

A cat that becomes overheated in the summer can suffer from dehydration, shallow breathing and can even get heatstroke.

Always provide plenty of clean, fresh water for your fuzzy feline.  Help your kitty enjoy a happy and safe summer this year by following these helpful kitty cool down steps:

• Let Your Cat Decide His Cool Spot – Cats are smart about comfort at all times including during the heat.  Ever notice your cat curling up in the sink or sprawling out on the tile?  Porcelain and tile stay cool even when it’s hot outside providing a great place for your kitty to cool down.
• Calm Kitty – If your cat is running around too much during a really hot day, he will soon become exhausted and dehydrated.  Provide a relaxed, indoor place that is both cool and darkened to allow your kitty to cool down.  Don’t initiate play when he is in an agitated state.
• Create A Hide Out – Use a cardboard box or something else that is out of the way and dark near a cool spot.  You can line it with a terry towel or other type of cotton, breathable natural fabric that isn’t too warm.  Sticking an ice pack inside a sock and placing it in his retreat is also a helpful added cooling affect.
• Shady Garden Area – Make sure your yard has some shady spots for your outdoor cat to enjoy.  If you provide them, your kitty will find them.  It should be somewhere a gentle breeze is available.  If you have outdoor buildings such as greenhouses or sheds, double check you haven’t locked your kitty in there before closing the door.  This could end up killing your cat as temperatures rise in these types of shelters.
• Wet Towels – Most cats don’t like the water however you can help cool your cat down with dampened towels.  If you simply dampen a cloth or paper towel and stroke your cat with it, it can help cool him down.  Good areas to cool down, where cats get warmest, is on their bellies, the pads of their paws, armpits, under their chins and on the outside of their ears.
• Brush Your Cat – This helps take away any matted fur which can trap heat and helps air flow freely through his coat.  This is especially important for long haired breeds of cats.  Do not shave your cat as this can expose your cat to the sun and result in sunburn and skin cancer.
• Always Have Water Available – Dehydration is a real risk for cats during the hot summer months so constant water access is essential. Always, always have water available for your kitty.

Kitty Litter Odor Bringing You Down? Learn How To Never Have To Smell It Again!

Your kitty litter box shouldn’t be a battle and Clear the Air would like to share some helpful tips to keeping an odor free litter box.

Follow these steps to an odor free litter box and home:

Scooping – The number one rule, and the only thing that will keep litter box odor at bay, is constant cleaning. That means scooping the box out at least twice a day, removing the solids and liquid clumps if you use clumping litter.  If you don’t use clumping litter, you can use a large solid metal spoon to lift out the most urine-soaked areas each time you clean and add litter as needed to replace what is removed.

Washing Your Litter Box – You should also get in the habit of washing the litter box at least every other week if not more.  Use a mild unscented dish detergent and rinse clean.  Remember to clean your scooper too.  When the box is dry, sprinkle a thin layer of our Cat Urine Odor Eliminator in the box first.  Then add two to three inches of litter.  Cats do not like a deep tray of litter and this allows you to add litter as you scoop.

Type of Litter – Some have perfumes and others have additives to only cover the smell.  To a cat, these smells can be overwhelming and make the box unwelcoming.  It is usually a good idea to get unscented litter and sprinkle our Cat Urine Odor Eliminator in the box to eliminate the odor, not cover it up.

Type of Litter Box – Using the largest box your home can accommodate is the best idea.  A good rule of thumb is to get a box that is at least twice as long as your adult cat and wide as the cat is long.  Even though a covered box is nicer to look at, most cats don’t like them and they also trap odors inside making it unpleasant for your pet to enter.  Cats claws can get stuck in liners when they are digging for a place to relieve themselves and the urine can also seep into the liner, trapping odors in the box.

Location – Lastly, location of your cats litter box is very important to keep your pet happy to relieve himself in the correct areas.  The rule is one litter box per cat plus one.  If your cat is on the third floor of your house and the litter box is in the basement, he may not decide to make the long trek.  It is important to have the boxes in different locations.  Also make sure the box is in a low traffic area, away from his or her food and in a place that your cat can easily get in and out of.

These suggestions may take a lot of effort but not only with your cat be happier but you will as well, not having to put up with cat urine odors.    Remember to pick up Clear the Air’s Cat Urine Odor Eliminator available at all Petco stores or online.

Feeding Your Older Cat

Clear the Air would like to share some helpful tips on feeding your older cat.

Usually once cats reach age seven, they begin to show visible age-related changes.  There are metabolic, immunologic and body composition changes, too. Some of these are unavoidable. Others can be managed with diet.

The following are some tips to keep your older cat on a healthy diet:

Once your cat reaches seven years of age, start your cat on a senior diet.

The main objectives in the feeding an older cat should be to maintain health and optimum body weight, slow or prevent the development of chronic disease, and minimize or improve clinical signs of diseases that may already be present.

As a cat ages, health issues may arise, including:
– deterioration of skin and coat
– loss of muscle mass
– more frequent intestinal problems
– arthritis
– obesity
– dental problems
– decreased ability to fight off infection

Older cats have been shown to progressively put on body fat in spite of consuming fewer calories. This change in body composition is inevitable and may be aggravated by either reduced energy expenditure or a change in metabolic rate. Either way, it is important to feed a diet with a lower caloric density to avoid weight gain, but with a normal protein level to help maintain muscle mass.

Talk to your veterinarian about increasing your senior cat’s vitamin E intake. Antibody response decreases as cats age. Increasing the intake of vitamin E in cats older than seven years of age can increase their antibody levels back to those seen in younger cats!

Antioxidants such as vitamin E and beta-carotene help eliminate free radical particles that can damage body tissues and cause signs of aging. Senior diets for cats should contain higher levels of these antioxidant compounds. Antioxidants can also increase the effectiveness of the immune system in senior cats.

Routine care for geriatric pets should involve a consistent daily routine and periodic veterinary examinations to assess the presence or progress of chronic disease. Stressful situations and abrupt changes in daily routines should be avoided. If a drastic change must be made to an older pet’s routine, try to minimize stress and to realize the change in a gradual manner.