Bringing A New Cat Home?

Are you thinking of getting a new cat or kitten?

There are important tips to keep in mind when looking into bringing a new cat home whether you already have dogs and/or cats or are new to the pet world.

A new home can be stressful for a cat and in order to ensure you and your new cat are completely happy with each other, follow these helpful tips.

Prepare a room in your house for the new arrival – Your new kitten or cat is going to need some time to adjust to his new environment—the new sights, sounds, and smells; the new ecosystem of germs; and the new people—so set the room up for an extended stay. You’ll need to provide all the basic kitty comforts—water bowl, comfortable bed, and litter box. If you are using a spare bedroom or office for your kitty’s temporary quarters, make sure you “kitty-proof” it. Just like with small children, put away anything valuable or breakable. Get down on the floor and look around from a “cat’s eye view.” Cover any bed, sofa, or upholstered chair with a waterproof pad or sheet. Remember, cats are territorial and may, when feeling insecure, mark their territory with urine or feces. If another animal has been in the room and had a little “accident” that you never even noticed, the new kitten or cat will find it and “refresh” it!

Clean and prepare a pet carrier for transporting your new cat home – Wash a pet carrier with a solution of 1:32 bleach and water solution (1 ounce [30 ml] bleach to 1 gallon [4 l] of warm water) and rinse thoroughly. Outfit it with something you’ve worn, such as a T-shirt, so the new kitty can start getting used to your scent on the way home. Once you get the kitty home, you might want to leave the carrier in the room for him as an extra haven of security.

When driving home, make sure the carrier is secured with a seat belt – Also, driving in a car is usually an intense experience for kittens and cats, so keep the music from your radio or CD player soft and soothing; light classical is a good choice, especially Mozart.

Give your new kitty an adequate adjustment / quarantine period – Quarantine your new kitten or cat for a minimum of 14 days and preferably 21. It will allow for mental, emotional, and immune system adaptation. It’s important to be in this room frequently to love, feed, and bond with your new kitten or cat. He will become more comfortable and, of extreme importance, get used to his new litter box. You can start to introduce your new kitty slowly to the rest of your home. Expect the introduction period to take weeks, not days. If you get too excited and/or impatient and rush this time, you risk social failure as well as litter box mistakes.

If you have other pets, make sure you give them plenty of affection so they don’t feel neglected, and make the introduction gradually – All the animals that live with you will be aware of each other by smell first. Feed resident cats and the new cat on opposite sides of the (closed) door to the new cat’s room; feed the dog separately due to dogs’ natural guarding behaviors surrounding food. (It is never safe to feed dogs and cats together.) Paws may start to reach under the door. Moderate hissing or growling is normal. Gradually crack the door open so the pets can see each other without being able to fight. Occasionally bring some of your resident pets’ bedding into the new cat’s room, so that the newcomer can become acquainted with the scent. The new cat’s bedding can also be introduced to the current residents. Do occasional “territory swaps” by putting the new cat in another part of the house and the resident cats in the new cat’s room. Sometimes they become fast friends; sometimes they will annoy but tolerate each other; sometimes the sounds of hissing and yowling will make you wonder if bringing home another cat was the right thing—but don’t worry, with cat introductions, some personalities blend and others don’t, but in nearly all cases, they can be taught to tolerate each other.

Note: If you’re introducing a cat to one or more dogs, keep all dogs leashed at all times to allow the new cat to choose how closely to interact. Never leave any dog and cat together unsupervised (no matter how well they know each other) unless the cat has a good escape route.

Limit new ” siblings’ ” time together if it’s not going well initially – They will decide among them who is going to be “top cat!” Helping the cats to socialize through play therapy can also be helpful.

Keep it dark – Let your new cat sleep in a dark room with no light at all. This will help your cat give up any tendency toward nocturnal activities and adjust to your schedule.

Tick Removal For Your Pets

Removing ticks from your pets – what you need to know!

Ewe, it is flea and tick season!  Keep fleas and ticks away with our helpful tips.

Need help on removing those pesky ticks your dog and cat pick up from outside?  Check out ASPCA’s article:

So, you’ve found a tick on your pet—how do you deal with it? While it’s important to get these little suckers off quickly, ASPCA veterinarians advise that you stay calm and don’t rush it. Moving too fast when removing a tick could potentially create more problems, both for your pet and for you.

While the following instructions employ tweezers, be aware that there are some very good products on the market designed specifically for safe tick removal. If you live in a tick-heavy area or are taking your pets to a place where they are likely to get ticks, it’s a good idea to buy one of these tools and have it on hand. They generally work better than tweezers at getting out the whole tick, and are relatively inexpensive.

Step-by-Step Tick Removal Instructions

Step 1—Prepare its Final Resting Place – Throwing a tick in the trash or flushing it down the toilet will not kill it, and it’s actually best to hold on to it for awhile for veterinary testing in case your pet falls ill from the bite. Be ready with somewhere to put the tick after you’ve removed it—the best option is a screw-top jar containing some rubbing alcohol.

Step 2—Don’t Bare-Hand It – Put on latex or rubber gloves so you’ll never have direct contact with the tick or your pet’s bite area. Ticks can carry infective agents that may enter your bloodstream through breaks in your skin or through mucous membranes (if you touch your eyes, nostrils or mouth).

Step 3—Grab a Partner – You don’t want your pet squirming away before you’re finished, so if possible, have a helper on hand to distract, soothe or hold her still.

Step 4—The Removal – Treat the bite area with rubbing alcohol and, using a pair of tweezers, grasp the tick as close to the animal’s skin as possible. Pull straight upwards with steady, even pressure. Place the tick in your jar.

• Do not twist or jerk the tick! This may leave the mouth-parts embedded in your pet, or cause the tick to regurgitate infective fluids.
• Do not squeeze or crush the body of the tick, because its fluids (saliva and gut contents) may contain infective organisms.

Step 5—All that Remains – Sometimes, in spite of doing everything right, a tick’s mouth-parts will get left behind in your pet’s skin. If the area doesn’t appear red or inflamed, the best thing to do is to disinfect it and not to try to take the mouth-parts out. A warm compress to the area might help the body expel them, but do not go at it with tweezers.

Step 6—Clean Up – Thoroughly disinfect the bite site and wash your hands with soap and water (even though you were wearing gloves). Sterilize your tweezers with alcohol or by carefully running them over a flame.

Step 7—Keep Watch – Over the next few weeks, closely monitor the bite area for any signs of localized infection. If the area is already red and inflamed, or becomes so later, please bring your pet—and your jarred tick—to your veterinarian for evaluation.

From: http://www.aspca.org/pet-care/pet-care-tips/how-to-remove-a-tick-from-your-pet.aspx

Dog and Cats and Their Facts

Fun facts about dogs, cats – and stars

Saving On Pet Expenses

Great article we came across from ABC News about saving money on pet related expenses.  Check it out:

Caring for a pet can be a big expense, with owners spending between $600 and $3,000 a year depending on the breed and budget.

Josh Elledge from the Savings Angel.com has some advice to help save on pet-related expenses.

VETERINARY CARE/MEDICATIONS:

Veterinary care can be one of the largest expenses with medications for everything from fleas to heartworm to more specific medications for your pet’s ailments. It is possible to purchase medications through online pharmacies and save yourself a good deal of money. While critics may warn about the dangers of buying medications online, this is a particularly important option for families who might not otherwise be able to afford the medications their pet needs.

There are only 16 online pharmacies that are registered with the National Association of Boards of Pharmacy. This association reviews the pharmacy’s practices to ensure they are compliant with all proper requirements.

While not completely fail-safe, experts I’ve listened to urge owners who wish to buy medications online to make sure they are doing business only with these sites. You can find the list atnabp.net

One option that might be a possibility is to ask your vet if she or he will match the pricing of an Internet retailer. Our vet has given us a nominal discount or recommended a rebate that was otherwise unknown when we’ve asked.

FOOD:

The second area that you can possibly save yourself a good deal of money is pet food. There are many options available for feeding your pet. Some owners opt for economy varieties. Economy varieties include Alpo, Beneful, Hill’s Science Diet, Kibbles ‘n Bits, and Purina. There are manufacturer coupons aplenty, which can add to the savings. In our database at SavingsAngel.com, we regularly see these brands for 50-70% off retail prices. Getting deals like this involve timing your purchase and applying a high-value coupon at the same time.

Obviously, these brands are inexpensive by comparison, but can contain a large amount of filler like wheat, corn and soy. It’s important that you review the labels and talk to your vet to discuss your pet’s needs. You can also choose premium brands like Iams, Eukanuba, and some varieties of Hill’s Science Diet. Large corporations own all these brands now (Procter & Gamble, Colgate-Palmolive). This is helpful from the standpoint in that coupons are available for budget-minded shoppers. Iams and Hill’s, for example, recently published a $3 coupon that can make for some very good savings. Hill’s is also offering a $12.99 rebate on selected varieties.

When purchasing, make sure to read the label. There are four things you want to look for:

1. The guaranteed analysis. (How much fat & protein in the food.

2. The nutritional adequacy statement

3. The ingredients (avoid foods with too much filler.)

4. The feeding guidelines

One website that you might find very useful in choosing a pet food dogfoodadvisor.com. This website is also very helpful in tracking pet food recalls. Sadly, recalls of pet food are fairly common.

If you own a larger breed dog, you may find that more expensive varieties are outside your budget (unless you are using your coupons!) This makes it very important to talk to your vet to talk about what ingredients to look for. Your vet may also be able to give you some ideas regarding supplementing your dog’s nutrition.

BOARDING:

The price of boarding can vary wildly depending on the quality of the care. If you want to get a great deal on boarding, the best deals on good boarding facilities will be found on the daily deal sites (Groupon, etc…). With some careful watching, you’re bound to find a deal eventually – though the deals tend to be geared more for short term stays.

Don’t be afraid to competitively shop the pet resorts – and ask if one location will match or beat the price of another – particularly if you are boarding for a longer period of time. Vacancy means lost revenue and pet boarding facilities are a business like any other who desire to stay busy. The best deals of all on pet care are going to come from exchanging pet sitting – or hiring a pet-loving tween. You can also ask for recommendations for reliable pet sitters at your local animal shelter or pet store. Pet sitters can charge a fraction of a pricey pet resort.

TRAINING:

Forget hiring the dog whisperer unless you have special needs. The Internet is FILLED with step by step instructions and video examples of how to train your pooch to do all the tricks you like – or overcome any naughty puppy behavior. A training class is helpful for socialization – but after your puppy is old enough, make sure the dog park and walks in dog occupied areas are part of your regular routine.

PET INSURANCE:

Pet insurance is usually not a good investment. “It’s common to pay $300 a year or more for pet insurance. Over the life of a dog or cat that might be $5,000 or more. Most people are not going to spend that kind of money on covered pet health care.

For its August 2011 issue, Consumer Reports compared of nine pet policies for Roxy, a healthy 10-year-old beagle who lives near the magazine’s office in Yonkers, N.Y. Roxy’s lifetime vet bills have totaled $7,026 (in current dollars). In every case, the total premiums that would have been paid to those insurance companies were higher than Roxy’s medical bills. It makes more sense to put a couple of hundred dollars into a household emergency fund each year for serious pet health issues.

From: http://abclocal.go.com/wls/story?section=resources&id=8713519

Navy Sailors Rescue Kittens

Such a great story about our military men and three little kittens they found.  Check out this story from LoveMeow.com.

It all began when Eric Hanst and his fellow sailors were Navy deployed overseas. When they were in port for a few days, they were greeted by an unexpected guest. “A cat came aboard via mooring line. We lost track of her, and found her later that evening. We managed to get her back to the pier, and waved goodbye as we took off. This cat seemed unusually upset by this,” said Hanst.

What they did not know was that the cat didn’t just come alone. “It turns out, when she managed to sneak on board, she also managed to smuggle on three kittens. We thought she had given birth on the ship, but it was pointed out to us that they were too big to be only a few days old.”

When they were sailing off, no one on board was aware of the kittens. The little ones were very confused, looking for their mom for almost four days until they were discovered in the machine shop. “We found one initially and the other two a couple hours afterwards,” Hanst added.

Even though the crew had little experience bottle feeding a kitten, they all jumped into action, doing everything they could to help these little creatures. They did not have a bottle, so they improvised. They found boxes and necessary things to make a temporary nest for the kittens. They were all so proud, holding their new furry buddies and letting them climb all over them. When it comes to bottle feeding the kittens, these sailors showed remarkable love and care to the tiny little creatures that were about the size of their palm. They were gentle to the kittens and tended to their every whim.

“After the initial shock of being found, and feeding, the kittens were just as happy and playful as any other cute little bugger you’d find anywhere else. They were a great boost to crew morale, and I LOVED THEM,” said Hanst.

After they docked, the kittens were transported to local veterinary services. “We managed to find homes for all three kittens. I talked a friend into adopting one of the kittens, the other two were taken in by my a ‘cat couple’ who are regular rescuers.”

The soldiers rescued the kittens and the kittens gave them the companionship and love they needed during these long voyages. They both needed one another and it was a blessing that they found each other.

From: http://lovemeow.com/2011/04/navy-soldiers-bonded-with-3-stowaway-kittens/

Dogs Need Exercise – Even If They Have A Large Backyard

Do you have a dog?

Are you lucky enough to live somewhere your dog has a yard?  Though your dog may have room to roam outside, there are some important things to keep in mind for your dog’s well-being.

Check out this article from the ASPCA:

If you live in the city, your urban canine is probably on a three-walk-a-day schedule for exercising, socializing and eliminating. But if your home comes equipped with a yard and a fence, keeping a dog becomes much easier. The simplicity of giving your dog his morning constitutional while you’re still garbed in a robe and slippers can’t be beat. Add a dog door, and you don’t even have to get out of bed! Phydeau can meet his own needs on his own schedule. However, some dog guardians use the yard as a crutch and, before you know it, the backyard becomes Phydeau’s entire world. How much is too much of a good thing?

Who Put the Dog Out?

When dogs become adolescents, they can’t seem to get enough exercise, and their inconsistencies often frustrate their owners. One day Phydeau seems all grown up; the next day, he’s chewing his way through the house like a buzz saw. In a fit of pique, Phydeau’s owner banishes him to the backyard. At first it may be just during meals to prevent begging, or when company comes, to prevent jumping. Next, it’s during work hours so he doesn’t soil or chew when left alone. Before long, the only time Phydeau sees the inside of the house is during storms or winter freezes. Is this any life for a dog?

Turning a rambunctious adolescent into a backyard dog doesn’t solve anything. It merely brings temporary relief. True, your dog can’t climb into cranky old Aunt Edna’s lap if he’s outdoors, but he’ll also never learn how to behave appropriately around house guests. A dog who’s kept outside experiences social isolation. He may engage in excessive barking and howling in an attempt to reunite his pack. When a family member enters the yard to spend some time with him, he erupts into rapturous leaps and vocalizations, displaying a level of enthusiasm certain to squelch any possibility that that person will ever make a return visit.

Over time, an isolated outdoor dog will become exceedingly independent and difficult to train. Whatever desire he had to please will be gone, replaced by the need to occupy his time in any way possible. His motto becomes “If it feels good, do it!” Dig up the tulip bulbs. Excavate a cooling pit. Fence-fight with the dog next door. Without human feedback to the contrary, these are all rewarding activities for a backyard dog. There is nothing wrong with letting a well-mannered dog spend a lazy day lying in the grass, soaking up the sun or playing in the fallen leaves. But when the yard takes the place of teaching your dog appropriate house manners, you need to step back and examine why you have a dog.

Come Rain or Come Shine

If your dog enjoys spending a considerable amount of time outside, he needs protection from the elements. A doghouse can offer access to cool shade on a hot day or shelter from the cold, rain or wind. When providing a doghouse, make sure the opening does not face into the wind during the coldest months of the year. If the opening is large, hang some carpet strips over the doorway to keep heat in and cold out; and provide good insulated bedding, such as straw, to keep the dog up off cold ground. Remember to clean the place out every few months to ensure that no other beasties have set up house—a nest of yellow jackets was discovered in one poor Brittany spaniel’s outdoor shelter.

If your dog spends more than an hour outdoors on a hot day or several hours outside other times of the year, make sure he has fresh water available. Weigh down his water container, or affix it to a stationary object in such a way that he can’t easily tip it over. His meals are best served in your house, because leftover food will attract unwanted insects and possibly wildlife.

For those situations where there is either no fence or a need to keep Phydeau out of certain areas such as your begonia bed, build a sturdy exercise pen, where your dog can do “dog things” without incurring the wrath of family gardeners or neighbors. If you live in a community that prohibits fences, an overhead trolley cable may be the answer. However, these lines aren’t safe for dogs with powerful acceleration, such as greyhounds. The impact when they hit the end of the line is considerable, and spinal cord damage is likely. Staked chains should be avoided because they can kink and tangle, and injure the dog.

Dogs are companion animals and, as such, belong in our homes and in our lives. Just because you have a backyard doesn’t mean that Phydeau should be restricted to it. Take the time to teach him house manners and socialize him to the world beyond your property, and you will discover you have within him the best possible companion.

Does Your Cat Have Bad Breath?

Does your cat have bad breath?

Of course your cat’s breath isn’t always going to smell perfectly minty fresh, however if there is an extremely strong odor, there may be an underlying medical problem that needs to be addressed.

First you will want to find out what is causing your cat’s bad breath.  Most often, bad breath is caused by a build-up of odor-producing bacteria in your pet’s mouth. This can be a result of dental or gum disease; certain cats, in fact, may be especially prone to plaque and tartar. Diet and dermatological issues can also be contributing factors. However, persistent bad breath can also indicate more serious medical problems such as abnormalities in the mouth, respiratory system, gastrointestinal tract, liver or kidneys. In all cases, halitosis is a red flag that should be investigated.

In order to find out the reason your cat has bad breath, your veterinarian is the best person to pinpoint the cause. A physical examination may reveal the cause of your cat’s problem. If not, further tests will likely be recommended. Be ready to answer questions about your cat’s diet, oral hygiene, exercise habits and general attitude and behavior.

The following symptoms will require veterinary attention:

– Excessive brownish tartar on your cat’s teeth, especially when accompanied by drooling, difficulty eating and red, inflamed gums, could indicate serious dental or gum disease.
– Unusually sweet or fruity breath could indicate diabetes, particularly if your cat has been drinking and urinating more frequently than usual.
– Breath that smells like urine can be a sign of kidney disease.
– An unusually foul odor accompanied by vomiting, lack of appetite, and yellow-tinged corneas and/or gums could signal a liver problem.
– Pawing at the mouth

Treatment of your cat’s bad breath depends on your vet’s diagnosis. If plaque is the culprit, your cat might require a professional cleaning. If the cause is gastrointestinal or an abnormality in your pet’s liver, kidneys or lungs, please consult your vet about steps you should take.

Many people assume that bad breath in cats, especially at a certain age, is a “given”—but that’s not the case. In fact, being proactive about your pet’s oral health will not only make your life together more pleasant, it’s smart preventive medicine:

– Bring your pet in for regular checkups to make sure he has no underlying medical issues that may cause halitosis.
– Make sure your vet monitors and tracks the state of your cat’s teeth and breath.
– Brush your cat’s teeth frequently—every day is ideal. (Please be sure to use toothpaste formulated for cats as human toothpaste can upset your pet’s stomach.)
– Discuss home-use oral health products with your veterinarian to see if there’s a type he or she recommends.
– Talk to your vet about feeding a diet that will help to prevent dental disease. Some feel that the abrasive action caused by chewing hard kibble can slow down the formation of plaque.

If your cat’s bad breath is left untreated, gum disease and excessive tartar—both causes of bad breath—can lead to infection and tooth loss.  Keep your cat healthy and happy and make sure his breath is fresh!

Keep Your Cat Happy With These Tips

Since Clear the Air has dedicated May to “Cat Month”, we would like to share some easy helpful tips to make sure your indoor cat has all she needs.

It doesn’t take much to make your furry feline a happy camper but it is important to make sure you are providing her with all she needs to make her, and you, happy!

Remember our Cat Urine Odor Eliminator is now available at PETCO.  Also, send in your Cutest Cat Photo to win 2 FREE CANISTERS of our Odor Eliminator.  You can email them to YourCommunityPathway@gmail.com or you can post them on Facebook.  In order to make your cat’s home an enjoyable and comfortable one, make sure you have the following:

Personal Space – Like all cat lovers know, cats are very independent animals. They enjoy hiding under, on top, and/or inside of many locations in the home. They are very curious creatures. A great way to give your cat the space it needs is by getting him or her a perch. A perch will allow them to elevate themselves from the ground level and observe from above. They will feel safe and secure while enjoying their surroundings. Perches are available in a variety of shapes and sizes, and you can even attach them to a windowsill so your cat can get a better view of the outside.

A Bed – Cats are most vulnerable when they are sleeping, so it’s important to provide them with a quiet and secure resting place. For those who prefer that their cat stay off beds and other furniture, providing your cat with a comfortable resting place in a quiet part of the house is the best alternative. This area, however, must be in a place where necessities like food, water, and litter box, are still accessible. Cat beds can be purchased, or a snug blanket or towel will work just fine. Remember, just like you, cats don’t like being disturbed while they sleep.

Scratching/Climbing Post – Cats scratch as a way to stretch their muscles, shed old cuticle, sharpen their claws, and leave scent marks. Providing your cat with something to scratch will not only keep them happy, but it will save your furniture. When figuring out where to place a scratching post it’s important to keep in mind where your cat typically likes to scratch. You can place the post near this area in order to keep your cat from scratching that particular object. Keep the scratching post in close proximity to daily necessities and try not to move the post. If you do move it, try to move it as gradually as possible. Lastly, trim the sharp tips of your cat’s nails or purchase nail caps to reduce damage from scratching.

Litter Box – Cats use elimination as a way to mark their territory. So, in order to keep them from eliminating all over your house, it’s important to provide them an attractive litter box. First, cats appreciate a clean litter box. So, if you do not regularly clean out their litter box, they will most likely find a cleaner spot which may end up being somewhere in your house. Second, cats prefer a large uncovered litter box. This gives them a large space to move around and stand up straight. Third, most cats prefer fine-grained, unscented litter. Most cats are turned off by a scented litter. Lastly, the litter box should be placed in a quiet, secure and accessible place. This ensures the cat privacy, and eliminates other animals or people sneaking up on it. The “golden rule” is one litter box per cat, plus one. So for those with multiple cats, and/or multiple levels in your house, it is important to have multiple boxes on each level. Remember to also always add Clear the Air Cat Odor Eliminator to the litter box to reduce odors.

Toys – Although indoor cats don’t have to hunt for their food, they still have the urge to pounce. Toys are extremely important to the health and happiness of your cat. Something as simple as a ball to roll around or a stick with a string and a toy attached can amuse an indoor cat for hours. Taking a more realistic approach, you can give your cat a fake mouse that moves or makes noise.

It isn’t difficult to keep you indoor cat healthy and happy. All it takes is providing your cat with privacy, a comfortable place to sleep, something to scratch, an appropriate litter box, and most importantly, toys! Keeping your cat happy and healthy will not only increase their happiness, but yours as well.

Arthritis And Your Cat

Dealing with arthritis with your cat.

Since it is CAT MONTH at Clear the Air, we would like to share some tips on what to know about feline arthritis, what you can do to ease the pain and more.

What Is Arthritis? Arthritis, also known as osteoarthritis or degenerative joint disease, causes pain and inflammation in a cat’s joints. Although fairly uncommon in felines, arthritis tends to affect the elbow joint when it does strike—but many joints can be afflicted.

What Are the Symptoms of Arthritis in Cats? Felines suffering from arthritis may show overall stiffness, swelling of the joints, lethargy, lameness, decreased flexibility and discomfort when you pet or handle them in certain positions. You may also notice subtle behavioral changes, including:

• Decreased activity
• Lapsed litterbox habits (due to pain caused by getting in and out of the box)
• Hesitancy to run, jump or climb stairs

What Causes Arthritis in Cats? Joints naturally degenerate as part of the aging process. Cartilage forms a cushion between the bones at a joint. As cats get older, the cartilage deteriorates and becomes less flexible.

Arthritis can develop due to injury, dislocation or infection in the joint. Extra weight can also put extra strain on a cat’s joints.

How Is Arthritis Diagnosed? A veterinarian may conduct a physical exam, take radiographs and perform other diagnostic tests to help determine the cause of the pain and inflammation in your cat’s joints.

Which Cats Are Prone to Arthritis?  Arthritis most often affects older cats, as their joints degenerate naturally as part of the aging process—but can occur as result of trauma or infection in cats of all ages.

How Can Arthritis Be Treated? Once symptoms of arthritis set in, there is no cure—but you can work with your veterinarian to minimize your cat’s pain while keeping her healthy. Some general treatment options include:

• Anti-inflammatory/pain medications
• Possible use of nutritional supplements to help replenish cartilage
• Weight loss if necessary, which has been shown to benefit overweight cats with arthritis.

Are Cats with Arthritis Able to Exercise? Talk to your vet about an exercise program for your pet. Short, gentle play can be helpful in some cases, but you’ll need to introduce these sessions slowly and gradually. Vigorous play involving leaping, jumping and turning is to be avoided.

How Can I Make My Arthritic Cat More Comfortable? If your cat has arthritis, here are a few things you can do to make her feel better:

• Give her a cozy blanket or cat bed.
• When she’s relaxed and at ease, give her a gentle massage.
• Groom the areas of her body that may be hard for her to reach.
• Make sure she has easy, direct access to her litterbox and food and water bowls.

This article is from the ASPCA.

Cat Grooming – Helpful Tips To Prevent Vet Bills

While cats are very self-sufficient, making them an easy keeper as a pet, they do sometimes need a little assistance in the grooming department.

To ensure optimum health and prevent costly vet bills, check out some of Clear the Air’s grooming tips for your cat.

Trim Your Cat’s Claws: Trimming claws needn’t strike terror in the heart of you or your cat. Even an adult cat that is unaccustomed to nail clipping can grow to accept the procedure, although it’s best to start when the cat is young and everything is novel. Kittens’ tiny needle-like claws should be trimmed once a week; by the time a cat is about eight months old, you can reduce the trimming to once every two to four weeks for the rest of the cat’s life.

Place your cat on a table or hold him on your lap, or kneel down and clamp him between your legs. Grip a paw firmly and gently press on the pad to expose the claw. Don’t forget to also trim the dewclaws that are further up along the paw. If you have a polydactyl cat, one with extra toes similar to thumbs, the claws in the folds between the paws and the “thumbs” also need trimming.

Using special clippers, trim off the clear, curved part of the claw in one rapid motion, cutting straight across and making sure to stay at least one-tenth of an inch away from the thicker part containing the vein, or “quick.” When in doubt, cut off less claw and do the job more often. If you do accidentally cut the vein, stay calm. The claw will bleed, but your demeanor will affect your cat’s reaction. Ideally, have clotting powder, a styptic pencil, cornstarch, or soft bar-soap on hand before you begin and apply it to the end of the claw. Or, you can press a gauze pad, clean cloth, or tissue over the damaged nail for several minutes until the bleeding stops.

Some cats (even first-time adults) will allow you to cut all their claws right away. For less cooperative cats, start by simply handling their paws more and more, pressing lightly on the paw pads to extend the claws. Once this is accepted, try clipping one or two claws, stopping and letting your cat go whenever he starts to resist; eventually, you will cut them all. A team effort may be necessary to contain a writhing cat, with one person firmly grasping the loose skin at the scruff of the neck or holding the cat wrapped in a towel with just one paw at a time free, leaving the second person to handle the task of clipping.

Get The Eyes and Ears Clean: Check inside the ears every week and if you see a waxy residue, wipe it off with a cotton ball moistened with a small amount of feline ear cleaner or baby oil. (Never use a swab on a stick; if your cat moves suddenly, you may injure his ear canal or eardrum.) Hold the earflap gently and dab carefully with the cotton ball. If your cat fidgets during cleaning, restrain him as you would when cutting his claws.

Brushing Your Cat: Although cats are tidy creatures by nature and groom themselves, they still need regular brushing. In addition to removing loose hair that would otherwise be swallowed or left on furniture, brushing promotes good circulation, stimulates the skin, and keeps the coat shiny. It’s also a way to bond with your cat, as well as to check for any body changes that may signal a visit to the vet.

The procedure is much the same for short-hair and longhair cats, but the tools will differ, depending on the length and texture of your cat’s fur.

Be sure to check a longhair cat for mats before you start brushing and very gently untangle any you find using your fingers or a wide-toothed comb. Soak more tenacious knots with detangling liquid or spray.

If a mat won’t come apart, you can, if you’re very careful, snip it out with blunt-tipped scissors. Your cat’s skin is very sensitive, as well as being loose, and it’s fairly easy to make an accidental nick. Protect your cat by placing a fine-toothed comb between the mat and his skin. The alternative is to have mats removed by a professional groomer; if your cat is badly matted, this is the only option.

Begin grooming by passing the brush along the cat’s head and back. By following the same line you would if you were petting him, chances are the cat will relax, lulled by the pleasant sensation. Then, brush down the length of each side. As you go, stop often to clean the brush of collected hair.

Next, brush down from below the chin along the throat and chest. To brush the inside of your cat’s leg, hold him against your chest and reach over the outside of the leg. Your cat may object when you get to such areas as the rear thighs, the region where the legs join the body, and the belly.

Be gentle and reassuring, but persevere without overdoing it. If the cat is getting anxious, stop and continue later; otherwise, you risk turning grooming into a hateful experience.

Do the tail last, one small section at a time, carefully combing in the direction that the hair grows. Then, repeat the sequence with a fine-toothed comb, taking particular care on sensitive areas, to pick up any remaining loose hairs.

Bathing Your Cat: An older or injured cat may not be able to keep itself adequately clean and may need to be bathed. Some cats become very agitated during the process, however, so it’s up to you to make bathing as stress-free as possible for all participants. You’ll probably want a helper so one of you can hold the cat while the other does the shampooing. Both of you will probably get quite wet, so have lots of towels at the ready. It’s also possible that you may get scratched, so take a few moments to trim the claws first.

Placing something in the sink or tub that your cat can grip with his claws — a window screen, rubber mat, or several thick towels — may help him feel slightly more in control and less inclined to struggle.

Never dump your cat into a sink full of water; total immersion is not the idea here. Instead, fill the sink with just enough warm water to rinse him easily.

Hold your cat firmly, with one hand grasping his front legs, and place him in the water. Pour water over him with a small container and use a washcloth to wet more delicate areas such as the face and ears.

Standard shampoos formulated for cats should be rubbed in thoroughly, and fully rinsed. Any traces of shampoo left on the cat’s coat can cause irritation; so don’t rush through this stage. If you are washing the cat with a flea shampoo, follow the directions for the product to the letter. After properly rinsing your cat, wrap him in a thick towel and hold him close to absorb the excess water. Continue drying by carefully squeezing the towel against his body and pulling it away again.

You can gently rub short-hair cats with a towel, but this may cause matting in cats with longer coats. A small hair dryer can be useful (unless your cat is frightened by the noise of the motor). Keep the hair dryer on its lowest setting and never point it in your cat’s face. Once he is dry, brush him thoroughly and compliment him effusively on how wonderful he looks!

Dental Hygiene: As part of a regular checkup, your vet will look for signs of plaque and tartar buildup on your cat’s teeth. Left unchecked, periodontal disease can actually contribute to heart, liver, or kidney disease. If a significant problem has begun to develop, a thorough cleaning, requiring the cat to be anesthetized, will have to be scheduled.

To avoid the bother and expense of such cleaning, which is typically required every few years, brush your cat’s teeth at least every other day. This is not as difficult, or crazy, as it might sound, as long as you introduce the procedure very slowly. For the first few days, sit quietly with your cat and gently stroke the outside of his cheeks. Then, let him lick a small quantity of cat dentifrice — never human toothpaste; off your finger.

Next, place a small quantity of the paste on a cat-sized toothbrush or gauze square. Gently push back the cat’s top lip with your thumb and brush one or two teeth and the neighboring gums in a circular motion, pressing very lightly. Over several days, gradually brush a larger number of teeth. After each short session, reward your cat with a treat, preferably one for tartar control.