Why Your Dog Barks – Part 1

If you have a dog, most likely there have been times he or she barks excessively for a reason you are not sure of.

Clear the Air would like to share some helpful tips on learning about the behavior of your dog and why he barks.  This will be a two part blog touching on various reasons your dog barks.

This article was taken from the San Diego Humane Society.

Dogs bark for a variety of reasons:

1) Watchdog Barking serves the dual purpose of alerting pack members that there is an intruder and warning the intruder that they have been noticed.

2) Request Barking is the dog’s way of communicating to the owner that he would like something NOW.

Typical requests are “open the door NOW,” “pay attention to me NOW,” “let me out of here NOW,” “I wanna see that dog NOW” etc.

3) Spooky Barking occurs when the dog is uncomfortable about something in the environment and barks to say “I’m dangerous! Don’t come any closer!”

4) Boredom Barking can result when the dog’s daily needs for exercise and social stimulation are not met. The dog has gone essentially mad from boredom.

Controlling Excessive Barking:

Watchdog Barking

The standby technique is to teach the dog a competing response – such as fetching a certain toy or doing a down-stay on a mat (which cuts barking in many dogs) for tasty food rewards. Practice out of doorbell or “intruder” contexts first and then incorporate the game or command into real-life situations. The dog will need some coaching and prompting the first few times in the real-life situation so prepare to budget some time for that. Even better, set it up with a cohort to play “visitor,” so you can focus on the dog rather than being forced to attend to the person at the door. When the dog is more advanced, you can also incorporate penalties. If he gets it right, he is rewarded as usual. If he barks, he goes into the penalty box – a back room or crate that is far from the action.

Another technique – high effort but great result – is to teach the dog the meaning of the words “bark” and “quiet” (or any word you want to use as an “off” switch). First, you have to teach the dog to bark and quiet on command as a trick. To elicit the barking so that you can practice, you must use something you know makes the dog bark, like the doorbell or a weird noise outside (you may need a helper). Arrange the following sequence:

1) your command “bark!”

2) the doorbell or other prom

3) barking from the dog

4) praise from you: “good bark!”

5) your command “quiet”

6) showing him the treat

7) his (eventual) distraction from barking by the treat

8) 3-5 seconds of quiet during which you praise “gooo-oood quiet”

9) giving him the treat after 3-5 seconds of perfect quiet

10) repeat, gradually lengthening the duration of the “quiet” up to a minute

Do it over and over until the dog knows the game. He knows the game when he barks on the command and doesn’t need the doorbell anymore, and he quiets on the first quiet command without having to be shown the treat (you still give him one from your pocket, you just don’t show it anymore). If ever he interrupts a quiet with even one bark, say “oh! too bad” and start counting the quiet time from the beginning again. Barking during the quiet time will cost him his treat.

You must be able to yo-yo the dog back and forth reliably between bark and quiet before you try out your “quiet” command in real situations. The most common mistake is trying to use the quiet command before it’s well-enough conditioned in training sessions. Think of quiet on command as a muscle you’re making stronger.

When you can turn barking on and off anytime, anyplace as a trick, you may now start commanding quiet after a few barks when your dog barks on his own in real-life situations. The first few times the dog will respond poorly to the command. Don’t give up. Have really good treats handy. Go back to showing him the treat up front the first few times. Practice makes perfect.

If your dog “goes off” for the smallest sounds and changes in the environment, it would help the cause to get him better habituated. Take him out more, invite people and dogs over to socialize, expose him to a wider range of sights and sounds.

Keep Your Cat Happy With These Tips

Since Clear the Air has dedicated May to “Cat Month”, we would like to share some easy helpful tips to make sure your indoor cat has all she needs.

It doesn’t take much to make your furry feline a happy camper but it is important to make sure you are providing her with all she needs to make her, and you, happy!

Remember our Cat Urine Odor Eliminator is now available at PETCO.  Also, send in your Cutest Cat Photo to win 2 FREE CANISTERS of our Odor Eliminator.  You can email them to YourCommunityPathway@gmail.com or you can post them on Facebook.  In order to make your cat’s home an enjoyable and comfortable one, make sure you have the following:

Personal Space – Like all cat lovers know, cats are very independent animals. They enjoy hiding under, on top, and/or inside of many locations in the home. They are very curious creatures. A great way to give your cat the space it needs is by getting him or her a perch. A perch will allow them to elevate themselves from the ground level and observe from above. They will feel safe and secure while enjoying their surroundings. Perches are available in a variety of shapes and sizes, and you can even attach them to a windowsill so your cat can get a better view of the outside.

A Bed – Cats are most vulnerable when they are sleeping, so it’s important to provide them with a quiet and secure resting place. For those who prefer that their cat stay off beds and other furniture, providing your cat with a comfortable resting place in a quiet part of the house is the best alternative. This area, however, must be in a place where necessities like food, water, and litter box, are still accessible. Cat beds can be purchased, or a snug blanket or towel will work just fine. Remember, just like you, cats don’t like being disturbed while they sleep.

Scratching/Climbing Post – Cats scratch as a way to stretch their muscles, shed old cuticle, sharpen their claws, and leave scent marks. Providing your cat with something to scratch will not only keep them happy, but it will save your furniture. When figuring out where to place a scratching post it’s important to keep in mind where your cat typically likes to scratch. You can place the post near this area in order to keep your cat from scratching that particular object. Keep the scratching post in close proximity to daily necessities and try not to move the post. If you do move it, try to move it as gradually as possible. Lastly, trim the sharp tips of your cat’s nails or purchase nail caps to reduce damage from scratching.

Litter Box – Cats use elimination as a way to mark their territory. So, in order to keep them from eliminating all over your house, it’s important to provide them an attractive litter box. First, cats appreciate a clean litter box. So, if you do not regularly clean out their litter box, they will most likely find a cleaner spot which may end up being somewhere in your house. Second, cats prefer a large uncovered litter box. This gives them a large space to move around and stand up straight. Third, most cats prefer fine-grained, unscented litter. Most cats are turned off by a scented litter. Lastly, the litter box should be placed in a quiet, secure and accessible place. This ensures the cat privacy, and eliminates other animals or people sneaking up on it. The “golden rule” is one litter box per cat, plus one. So for those with multiple cats, and/or multiple levels in your house, it is important to have multiple boxes on each level. Remember to also always add Clear the Air Cat Odor Eliminator to the litter box to reduce odors.

Toys – Although indoor cats don’t have to hunt for their food, they still have the urge to pounce. Toys are extremely important to the health and happiness of your cat. Something as simple as a ball to roll around or a stick with a string and a toy attached can amuse an indoor cat for hours. Taking a more realistic approach, you can give your cat a fake mouse that moves or makes noise.

It isn’t difficult to keep you indoor cat healthy and happy. All it takes is providing your cat with privacy, a comfortable place to sleep, something to scratch, an appropriate litter box, and most importantly, toys! Keeping your cat happy and healthy will not only increase their happiness, but yours as well.

Why A Cat Can Benefit Seniors

Cats make wonderful pets for people of all ages.

Wherever you live, a cat can be an ideal pet for you.  There are many reasons why but we would like to focus on the benefits cats provide for senior citizens.

Cats can improve your health – Even though cats require fairly minimal care, the care they do require provides much-needed exercise for older owners. Even seniors who have arthritis or other physical limitations can easily care for cats. Because cats need us to care for them by scooping their boxes, feeding them and giving them fresh water, cats get us up and moving whether we want to or not! Caring for and feeding a cat calls for routines and activities seniors might not otherwise have, providing important mental stimulation. This not only benefits senior citizens’ overall health, but can help them live longer and healthier lives.

Cats can improve your mood – Seniors can become lonely, or even depressed, when they retire or lose their spouse, or when their children move away. Some seniors become depressed simply because they do not get out and about as much anymore. Studies show that pets help seniors overcome loneliness and depression by providing affection, company, entertainment and a sense of responsibility and purpose. Seniors with pets tend to get up, talk and smile much more than when there are no pets around.  Think about it, when you are home alone with your cat, do you usually say a few words to him?  It definitely makes being alone more enjoyable when you have your furry feline around.

Cats over dogs – Although dogs can also make great pets for some seniors and provide the same benefits as cat ownership, careful consideration should be given to the care, training and exercise requirements of a dog. Many older owners simply can’t keep up with a dog’s needs, which makes adopting a cat a much better choice. Unlike dogs, cats are happy staying indoors all the time.  Most adult cats require only 20 to 30 minutes of playtime per day, and interactive play does not require the owner to be mobile. A kitty fishing pole or laser toy lets senior cat owners engage their cat in play while sitting in their favorite chair. Cats are also very content to spend most of their time sleeping on their owner’s lap or bed which makes this pet a perfect fit for someone less active.

Important tips to keep in mind when choosing your new pet cat –

• Lifespan – Before acquiring any pet, it is important to consider the lifespan of the animal and what will happen in the event that the owner is no longer able to care for the pet. In many cases, seniors need to move into a living facility that does not allow pets, or the pet outlives them. Both dogs and cats can live 15 to 20 years, so it is important that seniors have a younger friend or family member who is willing to take responsibility for the pet if necessary.
• Is a kitten or adult cat better for your senior – Many people think that getting a kitten or puppy for a senior will help “keep them young,” when in reality, puppies and kittens often provide seniors with more stress than enjoyment. Choosing to adopt an adult cat or dog is generally a wise choice for seniors. Adult animals have fewer exercise and training demands, making them easier for seniors to keep up with. Additionally, older pets are also less likely to outlive their senior owner.
• Talk with shelters to find the right fit for your cat – Arrange to visit your local animal shelter to view the cats available for adoption. Talk to the staff and ask for a calm, easygoing, adult lap cat with minimal medical requirements. The last thing a senior wants is an antisocial cat or one who is prone to urinary tract infections! Once your senior loved one decides on a cat — or two! – you can help shop for pet supplies (including a collar and ID tag) and set everything up  in a convenient location for both owner and kitty.

Support – If you are getting a cat for the senior in your life, make sure you can provide follow-up care and support.  Some seniors are not able to get to the store for needed supplies, while others are dealing with health or behavior problems with the cat and don’t know what to do. Be sure to check in with your loved one and their kitty to make sure things are going well.

If you know of a senior who is having difficulty affording veterinary care or food for a pet, be sure to contact your local animal shelter, food bank or veterinary clinic. Most professionals in the animal field understand how important pets are to seniors, so they may offer low-cost services and supplies just for seniors.

Your Puppy and House Training

Get Your Puppy House Trained!

If you just got a puppy, it is now time to learn how to potty train him.  If you have accidents, you do not want your puppy to go back to that spot to urinate again.  Use Clear the Air’s Carpet and Furniture Odor Eliminator to completely eliminate the odors.

We found this article from ASPCA’s website and thought there was a lot of valuable information on potty-training your puppy.

Puppies need to be house trained in order to understand that it’s not okay to eliminate in your house. House training is a simple process, but one that must be carried out positively (without punishment that scares the puppy) and consistently, following two main guidelines: 1) prevent indoor accidents through confinement and close supervision, and 2) take the puppy outside on a frequent and regular schedule and reward him for eliminating where you want him to go. House soiling can occur in any location in the home but sometimes pet parents will notice that their puppy soils more in certain locations, such as infrequently used rooms or on a specific kind of surface. Very young pups (under 12 weeks old) don’t have complete bladder control and might not be able to hold it very long. Older puppies who have had accidents might not have been house trained completely.

Why Puppies You Thought Were Housetrained Might Have Accidents

Too Young to Be Fully House Trained – Some puppies, especially those under 12 weeks of age, haven’t developed bladder or bowel control yet.

Incomplete House Training – Many puppies simply haven’t learned where to eliminate—or they haven’t learned a way to tell their people when they need to go out. Some puppies house soil only under specific conditions. For example, your puppy may soil when he’s home alone for long periods of time, first thing in the morning, sometime during the night, only when you’re not watching or only in infrequently used rooms. Other puppies may urinate or defecate whenever they feel the need to go.

Breakdown in House Training – Sometimes puppies who seem to be house trained at one point regress and start soiling in the house again.

Other Reasons Your Puppy Might House Soil

Urine Marking – If your puppy is over three months of age and urinates small amounts on vertical surfaces, he may be urine marking. Young dogs engaging in this behavior often raise their hind legs when urinating.

Separation Anxiety – If your puppy only soils when he’s left alone in your home, even for short periods of time, he may have separation anxiety. If this is the case, you may notice that he appears nervous or upset right before you leave him by himself or after you’ve left (if you can observe him while he’s alone).

Submissive/Excitement Urination – Your puppy may have a submissive/excitement urination problem if he only urinates during greetings, play, physical contact, scolding or punishment. If this is the case, you may notice your puppy displaying submissive postures during interactions. He may cringe or cower, roll over on his belly, tuck or lower his tail, duck his head, avert his eyes, flatten his ears or all of the above.

Medical Causes for House Soiling – It’s always a good idea to visit your puppy’s veterinarian to rule out medical causes for house soiling. Some common medical reasons for inappropriate urination and defecation follow.

Urinary Tract Infection (UTI) – Puppies with urinary tract infections usually urinate frequently and in small amounts. They may also lick their genital areas more than usual.

Gastrointestinal Upset – If your puppy was house trained but now defecates loose stools or diarrhea in your house, he may have gastrointestinal upset for some reason.

Change in Diet – If you’ve recently changed the amount or type of food you give your puppy, he may develop a house soiling problem. Often, after a diet change, a puppy will defecate loose stools or diarrhea. He may also need to eliminate more frequently or on a different schedule than before the diet change.

Miscellaneous Medical Causes – Other medical causes include abnormalities of the genitalia that cause incontinence (loss of bladder control), various diseases that cause frequent elimination and medications that cause frequent elimination.

How to House Train Your Puppy

House training is accomplished by rewarding your puppy for eliminating where you want him to go (outside) AND by preventing him from urinating or defecating in unacceptable places (inside the house). You should keep crating and confinement to a minimum, but some amount of restriction is usually necessary for your puppy to learn to “hold it.”

How Long It Will Take

Some puppies learn where and where not to eliminate at a very young age, while others take longer to understand. Most puppies can be reasonably house trained by four to six months of age. However, some puppies are not 100% reliable until they are eight to twelve months of age. Some puppies seem to catch on early but then regress. This is normal. Keep in mind that it may take a while for your puppy to develop bowel and bladder control. He may be mentally capable of learning to eliminate outdoors instead of inside, but he may not yet be physically capable of controlling his body.

How Often Your Puppy Needs to Go Out

All puppies are different, but a puppy can usually only hold his waste for the same number of hours as his age in months. (In other words, a four-month-old pup should not be left alone for more than four consecutive hours without an opportunity to go outside.) He can last longer at night, however, since he’s inactive (just like we can). By the time your pup is about four months old, he should be able to make it through the night without going outside.

House Training Steps

1. Keep your puppy on a consistent daily feeding schedule and remove food between meals.
2. Take the puppy outside on a consistent schedule. Puppies should be taken out every hour, as well as shortly after meals, play and naps. All puppies should go out first thing in the morning, last thing at night and before being confined or left alone.
3. In between these outings, know where your puppy is at all times. You need to watch for early signs that he needs to eliminate so that you can anticipate and prevent accidents from happening. These signs include pacing, whining, circling, sniffing or leaving the room. If you see any of these, take your puppy outside as quickly as possible. Not all puppies learn to let their caretakers know that they need to go outside by barking or scratching at the door. Some will pace a bit and then just eliminate inside. So watch your puppy carefully.
4. If you can’t watch your puppy, he must be confined to a crate or a small room with the door closed or blocked with a baby gate. Alternatively, you can tether him to you by a leash that does not give him much leeway around you (about a six-foot leash). Gradually, over days or weeks, give your puppy more freedom, starting with freedom a small area, like the kitchen, and gradually increasing it to larger areas, or multiple rooms, in your home. If he eliminates outside, give him some free time in the house (about 15 to 20 minutes to start), and then put him back in his crate or small room. If all goes well, gradually increase the amount of time he can spend out of confinement.
5. Accompany your puppy outside and reward him whenever he eliminates outdoors with praise, treats, play or a walk. It’s best to take your puppy to the same place each time because the smells often prompt puppies to eliminate. Some puppies will eliminate early on in a walk. Others need to move about and play for a bit first.
6. If you catch your puppy in the act of eliminating inside, clap sharply twice, just enough to startle but not scare him. (If your puppy seems upset or scared by your clapping, clap a little softer the next time you catch him in the act.) When startled, the puppy should stop in mid-stream. Immediately run with him outside, encouraging him to come with you the whole way. (If necessary, take your puppy gently by the collar to run him outside.) Allow your pup to finish eliminating outside, and then reward him with happy praise and a small treat. If he has nothing to eliminate when he gets outside, don’t worry. Just try to be more watchful of him in the house in the future. If your puppy has an accident but you don’t catch him in the act and only find the accident afterward, do nothing to your pup. He cannot connect any punishment with something he did hours or even minutes ago.

What NOT to Do

• Do not rub your puppy’s nose in his waste.
• Do not scold your dog for eliminating indoors. Instead, if you catch him in the act, make a noise to startle him and stop him from urinating or defecating. Then immediately show your dog where you want him to go by running with him outside, waiting until he goes, and then praising and rewarding him.
• Do not physically punish your puppy for accidents (hitting with newspaper, spanking, etc.). Realize that if your puppy has accidents in the house, you failed to adequately supervise him, you did not take him outside frequently enough, or you ignored or were unaware of his signals that he needed to go outside.
• Do not confine your puppy to a small area for hours each day, without doing anything else to correct the problem.
• Do not crate your puppy if he’s soiling in the crate.
• If your puppy enjoys being outside, don’t bring him inside right after he eliminates or he may learn to “hold it” so that he can stay outside longer.

For any accidents your puppy makes in the house, make sure to clean the area and sprinkle Clear the Air’s Carpet and Furniture Odor Eliminator over the soiled area.  Let sit for 24-48 hours and vacuum it up.  The odor should be completely eliminated and your pet will no longer associate that area with eliminating.

Pet Fostering

If you haven’t already heard of pet fostering or even if you have, it is a great way to provide a temporary home for a pet that is looking for their forever home.  For many dogs and cats that have been in shelters for too long, foster care provides a transitory place to live and a second chance at a new life.

Another reason to foster pets is for kittens or puppies that are still too young to be spayed or neutered and are not ready for adoption quite yet.  Or mother cats and dogs that have nursing litters and need a safe environment while raising their babies.  Fostering is also beneficial for animals being treated for illnesses or injuries that require recovery time.

Some animals also respond poorly when in a shelter environment.  This is called kennel neurosis and over a period of time their behavior can deteriorate causing them to be un-adoptable often leading to euthanasia.  Sharing the home of a foster parent can relieve kennel neurosis and turn their lives around.

All you need to be a foster parent to a pet is a loving compassionate heart, some available time and maybe a little extra space in your home.  If you have considered getting a pet for some time and are not sure about making the commitment, fostering a pet can be a perfect situation for you.  There are many classes and programs offered to new foster parents through your local humane society.

Remember, Earth Care is donating a $1 to the San Diego Humane Society for every new Facebook Fan we get during the month of January.  What an easy way to give to animals looking for a forever home!  Like us on Facebook!

New Carpet Odors – How to rid your house of them

Some new carpets contain volatile organic compounds (VOCs), which are emitted as gases when they are first installed. When exposed to VOCs people may experience a wide range of symptoms that can include nose and throat discomfort, headache, allergic skin reaction, nausea, fatigue, and dizziness.

These odors can easily be removed with Earth Care’s Clear The Air Odor Eliminators. Simply sprinkling Earth Care Clear The Air granules on the carpet and hanging Earth Care Odor Remover Bags will eliminate the new carpet odors. This unique form of Earth Care Products Mineral does not have to come into contact with the odor producer; it will pull the odors from the entire area.
Clear The Air draws in odors like a powerful magnet. The odors are adsorbed, and neutralized without any fragrances. Clear The Air does not cover up odors; it literally “clears the air” leaving the air fresh and clean. Clear The Air is made from an all natural mineral, is non toxic and biodegradable and safe for Planet Earth.

It is also safe around children and pets even if eaten.

Click Here to buy the New Carpet Bundle!

Directions to Remove New Carpet Odors

• Sprinkle Clear The Air Odor Eliminator granules over entire carpet. Leave down 24 hours and vacuum. When granules are down it is best to have some ventilation in the room such as a window open.
• One bucket covers 900 square feet.
• Also hang 1-3 bags in each room. Bags will last 3-4 months; we recommend you leave the bags up to continue removing new carpet odors.
• One bag covers 100 square feet.

Winter is approaching quickly. What should you do to keep your pet warm?

Although a lot of us pet lovers choose to keep our pets indoors where it is nice and cozy, sometimes the pups just have to stay outside.  Many people believe that because pets have fur that they cannot become hypothermic or get frost bite, but this is definitely not true. The normal body temperature for dogs and cats is 99.5-102.5 degrees Fahrenheit and when their body temp drops way below this, hypothermia is possible. Here are some important tips for keeping your pet safe and warm this winter:

• To help keep your pet warm, bring him into the garage or basement that has lots of blankets or get a dog house or shed with good insulation and one that is waterproof. A thick layer of hay covered by blankets is a good way to add insulation and there should be a piece of thick plastic covering the entrance of the dog house to block heavy winds. Be sure to check blankets often to make sure they have not become wet and frozen. If your pet is very young, old, thin or sick, they are especially in need of keeping warm and need the most protection.
• If you feed and give water to your outdoor pets in stainless steel bowls, it is a good idea to use plastic bowls in the winter time because they tend not to get as cold or frozen as easily.
• If you find that your pet is acting a little more hungry in the winter time this is because more food adds more “fuel” that helps keep them warm so be sure that they have a hardy helping of food when winter strikes.
• Pets should have a comfortable and clean, dry shelter to stay in especially if your pet spends the majority of its time outdoors.
• Check to make sure your shelter for your pet does not have any leaks and that falling rain cannot splash inside of the dry shelter.  It is important to place it in an area where water does not accumulate.  Bottom line, keep your pet high and dry!
• Continuous rain will usually decrease the frequency of your important walks with your dog. In order to compensate for less outdoor time, play with your pet more indoors either chasing a ball or playing tug of war just to get your pet the exercise he’s used to.
• Pets should always have access to adequate shelter and under no circumstance should you leave your pet tied up in the rain.

• Should there be an emergency you must have an escape or evacuation plan mapped out for your pets.  Prepare a first-aid kit for your pets in case they become wounded and never abandon them during a disaster.

Holiday Shopping for your Pet

As you are conducting all of your holiday shopping, should you be a pet owner, you will most likely be purchasing gifts for them as well.  Just over half of American pet owners will buy gifts for their pets this holiday season, and they’ll spend an average of $46 on their animals, with toys and treats topping the list, according to a new poll conducted by AP Petside.

As you purchase your fun treats, toys and such for your pet, keep in mind a great addition to your pets’ gifts is a canister or bag of our Earth Care Products Clear the Air Odor Removers.  They are available online through our website or can be purchased at all Petco Stores.

Send Us Your Testimonial and We’ll Send You Free Clear The Air Product

We are looking for customer testimonials! Send us your success story of a foul odor you dealt with and beat it with Clear The Air. Email your testimonial to YourCommunityPathway@gmail.com and we will send you a free canister of Earth Care’s Clear the Air.

Key facts to potty training your Puppy

Do the words “potty training” strike fear into your heart?  Maybe they should if they haven’t already and you are looking at adding a cute cuddly little puppy to your family.

Potty training your puppy isn’t easy. It takes time, work and a lot of doggie treats. Even if you have an older dog, the same rules apply.

Give your dog what it wants

Most dogs want food, and lots of it.

Besides the obvious no-no’s (chocolate, grapes, xylitol candy — all of which have proven toxic to pets), fatty foods are best avoided since they can cause pancreatitis and/or diarrhea.

Beyond this, let your imagination run wild. Use fancy dog treats, string cheese or chunks of cooked meats (chicken, ham, hot dog). Make potty training worth it for your pet.

And give them a treat right when they potty, not 10 minutes later once they’re back in the house. If you wait until they come inside, then they will think they’re getting the treat for coming indoors. You need to make it obvious and instantaneous.

Take your time

Accept the fact that potty training is no going to happen overnight.
You have to take the time to wait past the puppy procrastination until the potty action commences. If you don’t wait, your puppy is guaranteed to potty once it gets back inside where there’s nothing around to distract it. This applies each and every time.
The proof is in the pottying

Don’t let your pup fool you. Make sure you see them in position, doing their business to completion before you take them back inside.

If you’re not sure, you must stay outside longer. Otherwise, when you come inside, you might as well get out the carpet cleaner right away, because you know what’s going to happen next.

Of course there is always going to be that occasional accident and who wants their house smelling like an indoor designated potty area.  Make sure to use Clear the Air for Carpet/Furniture when you go through the not so fun battle of potty training.