• Keeping Pests Out The Green Way

    Posted on June 14th, 2012
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    No one wants pests in their home.

    Unfortunately many solutions to getting rid of pesky pests involve harmful pesticides which are poisonous to you, your children and your pets.

    As a green product itself, Clear the Air likes to find green solutions to keeping pests out of your home.  We would like to share some helpful tips on keeping your home pest free, naturally!

    Once summer time approaches, bugs start making an appearance in homes across the U.S. From ants to wasps to millipedes, our first instinct is to spray them down with as much poison as it takes to make them stop.  Our natural instinct to getting rid of insects, no matter how many legs they may have, is usually to use bug killer.

    Before spreading poison throughout your living environment, which you, your children, and pets will breathe in, try these all-natural alternatives.

    Prune Shrubs – To control pests inside the house, a lot of work needs to be done outside the house. Insects often find their way into the house by climbing on shrubs and trees that are touching the outside walls of your house. Trim everything back so there is a foot clearance between plants and exterior walls.

    Rake – Likewise, many insects that live in leaf and lawn debris are going to find easy access indoors if they are hanging out near the foundation of your house. Rake this area well. Pull weeds and only keep plants and shrubs that are well cared for near your foundation. Anything that is dead or dying will attract insects.

    Say No to Wood Chip Mulch – It is popular right now to cover flower beds with wood chip mulch. The problem with this is that insects, like carpenter ants and termites, love wood chips. Putting food for them near the foundation of your house isn’t the best idea. They will easily travel from the flower beds to the interior of your home. If you must cover the dirt in your flower beds with something, consider rubber mulch, such as Everlast Rubber Mulch. An additional benefit of Everlast Rubber Mulch is that it is made of 100% recycled tires.

    Clean the Kitchen – Summertime and ants go hand in hand. They often infest a kitchen faster than you can put the cap on the soda bottle. To prevent an all you can eat ant buffet, keep your kitchen clean. Washing dishes after each meal and putting all food away in the refrigerator will go a long way towards keeping the ant pests out of your house. If you do have a trail of ants leading to your kitchen, find the source. Are they swarming to the sticky spot under the stove? Clean it up and spray the whole length of the trail with vinegar to clean off any scent they may have left.

    Look to Old-Fashioned Remedies – If your house is plagued with ants, chances are you’ve got some ant hills in the yard. An old-fashioned remedy is to boil a pot of water on the stove and poor it down the ant hill. If you do a few a day, you will soon have greatly decreased the number of ants sharing your property.

    Once you’ve poured boiling water on all the ant hills, mix some borax and powdered sugar together. Put some on a plastic lid and place it in any area that ants congregate. Only do this if you don’t have pets or small children that are likely to find it. The ants will take the borax and sugar mixture back to their nest, hopefully killing their queen.

    Relax – Most insects won’t kill you, but the poison you spray on them might. So, if your insect problem is minor, then don’t worry about it too much. Take some preventative measures and let it go.

  • Keep Skunks Away From Your Home

    Posted on June 8th, 2012
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    If you have ever had an encounter with a skunk and he got the best of you, you know how difficult it can be to rid the odor.

    Thankfully Clear the Air has an easy solution to completely eliminating skunk odor quickly and effectively.  In order to avoid any interactions with skunks in the future, here are some great ways to keep skunks away from your home.

    Skunks are scavengers and will eat anything from bugs to garbage. If a skunk finds a tasty morsel on your land, chances are good that he’ll start visiting more often. This section will walk you through some steps to repel skunks from your property.

    Eliminate enticing meals for skunks. Skunks are nocturnal, so you’re most likely to see and/or smell them at night and in the early morning when they’re out scavenging for food. Skunks can and do eat anything; bird eggs, bugs and larvae, human wastes, small rodents, you name it – they’ll eat it. Following is a list of the most common foods that attract skunks onto people’s property:

    Unprotected garbage. When you transfer your trash outside for pickup, store it in heavy duty metal or plastic trash cans with lids that will stay on even if the can is knocked over. Never place unprotected bags out on the curb.

    Grubs and larvae. Skunks love grubs! Grubs are beetle larvae that live underneath of your lawn. Skunks are known for digging small holes in peoples yards as they hunt for them. Luckily, beneficial nematodes also love to eat grubs, and are easily deployed in your lawn and garden to eliminate this attractant.

    Pet food. Never leave unprotected animal food outside at night, it’s akin to setting a place at your dinner table for Pepé le Pew. If you leave out scraps for neighborhood stray cats, you may end up attracting the neighborhood skunks as well.

    Nuts, berries, and fruits. If you have bushes or trees that bear fruits, nuts, or berries you should periodically walk your yard and remove any that have fallen to the ground. Skunks will happily feast on them, and so will rodents… which skunks will also happily eat.

    Other attractants. While the above food sources are the most common culprits that attract skunks, there are more. If any of these exist on your property, do your best to minimize or eliminate them.

    • Compost heaps containing bones, fruit rinds and egg shells.
    • Large numbers of ground dwelling insects under dead leaves and foliage.
    • Easily accessible water sources.
    • Bird feeder spills.

    Skunk repellents

    Many folks swear by this or that for repelling skunks, but there seems to be little that delivers consistent results across the board. Here’s a list of the most effective skunk repellents:

    • Bright light – Skunks are nocturnal and prefer to stay hidden, flooding an area with light can be an effective deterrent. Use flood lights in combination with motion sensors.
    • Automated sprinklers
    • Spicy pepper solutions – Pepper sprays are reported to work well but must be reapplied every few days to remain effective.
    • Commercial repellents – There are many available types, people have also reported success with dog and cat repellents.

    Skunks will make homes underneath houses, sheds, decks, and other above-ground structures. Seal them off as well as possible – remember that they can fit through holes as small as 4 inches. Skunks won’t burrow underneath them unless they can see that there is space on the other side. Fill in holes and ditches as well.

    Enclose large, open areas with a three-foot high wire mesh fencing like chicken wire and it one foot deep to keep skunks from burrowing underneath.

    If you do end up getting sprayed by a skunk, immediately sprinkle Clear the Air’s Skunk Odor Eliminator on your, your pet if they’ve been skunked and anything else that may have been touched by the skunk spray.

  • Keep Your Cat Happy With These Tips

    Posted on May 30th, 2012
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    Since Clear the Air has dedicated May to “Cat Month”, we would like to share some easy helpful tips to make sure your indoor cat has all she needs.

    It doesn’t take much to make your furry feline a happy camper but it is important to make sure you are providing her with all she needs to make her, and you, happy!

    Remember our Cat Urine Odor Eliminator is now available at PETCO.  Also, send in your Cutest Cat Photo to win 2 FREE CANISTERS of our Odor Eliminator.  You can email them to YourCommunityPathway@gmail.com or you can post them on Facebook.  In order to make your cat’s home an enjoyable and comfortable one, make sure you have the following:

    Personal Space – Like all cat lovers know, cats are very independent animals. They enjoy hiding under, on top, and/or inside of many locations in the home. They are very curious creatures. A great way to give your cat the space it needs is by getting him or her a perch. A perch will allow them to elevate themselves from the ground level and observe from above. They will feel safe and secure while enjoying their surroundings. Perches are available in a variety of shapes and sizes, and you can even attach them to a windowsill so your cat can get a better view of the outside.

    A Bed – Cats are most vulnerable when they are sleeping, so it’s important to provide them with a quiet and secure resting place. For those who prefer that their cat stay off beds and other furniture, providing your cat with a comfortable resting place in a quiet part of the house is the best alternative. This area, however, must be in a place where necessities like food, water, and litter box, are still accessible. Cat beds can be purchased, or a snug blanket or towel will work just fine. Remember, just like you, cats don’t like being disturbed while they sleep.

    Scratching/Climbing Post – Cats scratch as a way to stretch their muscles, shed old cuticle, sharpen their claws, and leave scent marks. Providing your cat with something to scratch will not only keep them happy, but it will save your furniture. When figuring out where to place a scratching post it’s important to keep in mind where your cat typically likes to scratch. You can place the post near this area in order to keep your cat from scratching that particular object. Keep the scratching post in close proximity to daily necessities and try not to move the post. If you do move it, try to move it as gradually as possible. Lastly, trim the sharp tips of your cat’s nails or purchase nail caps to reduce damage from scratching.

    Litter Box – Cats use elimination as a way to mark their territory. So, in order to keep them from eliminating all over your house, it’s important to provide them an attractive litter box. First, cats appreciate a clean litter box. So, if you do not regularly clean out their litter box, they will most likely find a cleaner spot which may end up being somewhere in your house. Second, cats prefer a large uncovered litter box. This gives them a large space to move around and stand up straight. Third, most cats prefer fine-grained, unscented litter. Most cats are turned off by a scented litter. Lastly, the litter box should be placed in a quiet, secure and accessible place. This ensures the cat privacy, and eliminates other animals or people sneaking up on it. The “golden rule” is one litter box per cat, plus one. So for those with multiple cats, and/or multiple levels in your house, it is important to have multiple boxes on each level. Remember to also always add Clear the Air Cat Odor Eliminator to the litter box to reduce odors.

    Toys – Although indoor cats don’t have to hunt for their food, they still have the urge to pounce. Toys are extremely important to the health and happiness of your cat. Something as simple as a ball to roll around or a stick with a string and a toy attached can amuse an indoor cat for hours. Taking a more realistic approach, you can give your cat a fake mouse that moves or makes noise.

    It isn’t difficult to keep you indoor cat healthy and happy. All it takes is providing your cat with privacy, a comfortable place to sleep, something to scratch, an appropriate litter box, and most importantly, toys! Keeping your cat happy and healthy will not only increase their happiness, but yours as well.

  • Second Chance Pet Adoptions – New Clear the Air Satisfied Customer!

    Posted on May 22nd, 2012
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    Clear the Air is so happy to share another wonderful testimonial from a fully satisfied customer!  Dawn-Marie volunteers much of her time and money to ensure puppies are found their forever home!

    Check out what she had to say about Clear the Air!

    My name is Dawn-Marie Ennis and I am the puppy mom for all wee ones that come through Second Chance Pet Adoptions in Raleigh, NC.  Of course fostering the puppies means a lot of accidents, on our carpets and concrete floors.  I have just recently found your product, and am THRILLED at how well it works!  Trust me, I really have tried everything on the market!

    At first I was able to locate canisters of Clear the Air at my local pet supply stores, but I seem to have bought up every single one here in the Triangle area.  Because we are a donation based rescue, I spend my own money on cleaning supplies which gets expensive.

    I have been singing your praises and highly recommend your product to people who are adopting a puppy and also let all our foster parents know just how wonderfully it works.  The thing I love the most, that it is a dry product, and that is what intrigues most everyone I tell.  We all HATE the wet carpet feeling all other products have.  Puppies will go where they smell others have gone before them, and after 8 litters of 5 puppies or more lets just say my puppy room had a not so fresh feeling.  Which was making it very difficult for me to house train my current litter of 5 English Bull Dog mixed little boys.  And that breed is not known for having good sniffers.  It took just one 28 oz canister to demolish the stink in the wall to wall carpet.  After that, my husband and I did a different room in our home every night.  We are in love with the results!  Our house smells less like dogs and cats, and more like fresh spring air.

    So thank you, to the inventors, and everyone else involved in the making of Clear the Air!  It truly is the best thing out there for odor control.

    You can check out Second Chance Pet Adoptions website at: www.secondchancenc.org

  • Dog Run or Lawn Odors?

    Posted on May 15th, 2012
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    Do you have a dog run or an area of the lawn that your dog frequents?

    You also may have artificial grass which traps in the odor from urine or feces.  Sometimes, even though the area is outside, the odor is very noticeable.

    Clear the Air’s Lawn/Yard Odor Eliminator will eliminate the odors and make hanging out in your yard pleasant once again.  This unique blend will absorb pet urine and feces odors from lawns and garden areas without chemical or fragrances.  No need to worry about harming your lawn or garden as the mineral is completely non toxic and even acts as an excellent time-released nitrogen fertilizer.

    This unique form of Earth Care Products Mineral can be sprinkled on your lawn and garden areas as needed to eliminate odors. Odors will be completely eliminated Granules are totally safe for all lawns and vegetation. Clear the Air does not have to come into contact with the odor producer; it will pull the odors from the entire area.

    Clear The Air is made from an all natural mineral, is non toxic and biodegradable and safe for Planet Earth. It is also safe around children and pets even if eaten.

    During the month of May, we are running a buy two get two free discount!  If you buy two canisters of Lawn Odor Eliminator GET TWO MORE CANISTERS FREE!  Offer good at our online store, click here.  Must have 4 canisters in your cart and enter “lawn” into the redemption code and you will automatically get the price for two canisters off your bill!

  • Proper Cleaning for your Reptile’s Cage

    Posted on April 23rd, 2012
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    Cage maintenance for your reptile should receive proper attention.

    Reptiles are susceptible to bacterial infections of the skin and digestive tract so cages and housing  must be thoroughly and regularly cleaned. In order to a safe and healthy home for your reptile, routine cage maintenance is necessary by keeping the cage odor-free.  It is ideal to place an Odor Remover Bag in the cage to help keep away any foul odors.  Clear the Air is completely non-toxic and 100% safe around all types of animals.

    Certain precautions need to be taken during cleaning since the fecal matter of reptiles may harbor harmful bacteria such as Salmonella. It is most commonly transmitted to humans through oral ingestion after handling a reptile or contaminated equipment, through open cuts or sores during handling, or through contact with contaminated soil or environmental items. For this reason, your reptile’s cage, furnishings, and cleaning equipment need to be cleaned regularly and periodically disinfected. Sprinkling Clear the Air’s Odor Eliminator will eliminate any odors in your cage and will help to keep your reptile enjoying his home.

    Wear protective gloves during maintenance and wash your hands thoroughly with hot, soapy water after handling reptiles, reptile cages and equipment, and the stool of reptiles.

    Cage Accessories – Before introducing natural items such as rocks and branches into your reptile’s home, make sure they are sterile. Rocks should be thoroughly cleaned and then boiled in water for 30 minutes. Sand can be rinsed with large amounts of water to remove any particulate matter and then heated in an oven at 200-250°F for 30 minutes. Branches should also be cleaned and heated in the same manner.

    How Often Should You Clean The frequency and degree of routine cage cleaning will vary from species to species depending on the size and habits of your reptile. Always read and learn as much as possible regarding the needs and preferences of your reptile, and tailor your cleaning schedule around the needs of your particular pet. For example, cages of large iguanas require more work than those of a snake. As you become more familiar with the needs of your pet, you may have to alter your cleaning schedule as needed. However, in general, you will need to:

    • Perform daily cleaning to remove spills, uneaten food, shed skin, and other waste materials. Clean and disinfect food and water dishes daily when providing fresh food and water.
    • Clean and disinfect the entire cage, substrate, and decorations weekly.

    The use of rubber or latex gloves and protective goggles are recommended during cleaning. Wash your hands thoroughly after every contact with your reptile and every cleaning procedure, no matter how brief, to avoid transmission of harmful bacteria. Use a hand sanitizer or antibacterial soap to further minimize any risk.Cleaning Routine – As part of your daily cleaning routine, you should remove feces and any uneaten food. Wipe up water spills and urates. If you are using a sand substrate, you can use a Shovel Scooper to clean and extend the use of the sand substrate.  If the inside of the cage has stubborn material that requires a cleaning solution, remove and temporarily relocate your reptile to a clean spare cage. Wait until the cage is completely dry and free of fumes before returning your pet.

    Wash food and water dishes in hot soapy water and dry thoroughly. Use a disinfectant or antibacterial soap to sanitize. Be sure to rinse thoroughly, leaving no trace of soap or disinfectant behind.  To make the cleaning process more efficient, consider having two or more sets of dishes. By doing so, you can quickly and easily replace one set while the other is being cleaned.

    Monthly Cleaning – Temporarily relocate your reptile to a clean spare cage while cleaning the main cage. Start by removing all decorations in the cage. Bag and discard disposable substrate.  Loosen hardened material with a commercial reptile-safe cleaner, a toothbrush or other applicable tools from your special tool kit. Thoroughly clean all cage surfaces with hot soapy water and rinse and dry well.

    Wash all decorations, food/water dishes and non-disposable substrate such as indoor/outdoor carpet with hot soapy water. Scrub with brushes to remove wastes and dried liquids, and rinse well.  After the entire cage and all accessories are cleaned and thoroughly rinsed, sanitize them by using a disinfectant. Then, rinse the cage, accessories, and decorations with hot water, to remove any residues.

    Air dry all items completely before putting everything back together. Re-install everything when completely dry. Replace natural wood or any decoration that will not dry easily with easier to clean artificial decorations.  If bathing is recommended for your reptile, it’s a good idea to bathe your reptile before introducing him into his clean, dry, and odor-free cage.

    After cleaning your reptile cage, always remember to thoroughly clean and disinfect all the cleaning items you used, including the sink. Don’t forget to wash your hands as well. By taking proper precautions, you can create an environment that is safe for both you and your pet reptile.

  • Your Puppy and House Training

    Posted on April 12th, 2012
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    Get Your Puppy House Trained!

    If you just got a puppy, it is now time to learn how to potty train him.  If you have accidents, you do not want your puppy to go back to that spot to urinate again.  Use Clear the Air’s Carpet and Furniture Odor Eliminator to completely eliminate the odors.

    We found this article from ASPCA’s website and thought there was a lot of valuable information on potty-training your puppy.

    Puppies need to be house trained in order to understand that it’s not okay to eliminate in your house. House training is a simple process, but one that must be carried out positively (without punishment that scares the puppy) and consistently, following two main guidelines: 1) prevent indoor accidents through confinement and close supervision, and 2) take the puppy outside on a frequent and regular schedule and reward him for eliminating where you want him to go. House soiling can occur in any location in the home but sometimes pet parents will notice that their puppy soils more in certain locations, such as infrequently used rooms or on a specific kind of surface. Very young pups (under 12 weeks old) don’t have complete bladder control and might not be able to hold it very long. Older puppies who have had accidents might not have been house trained completely.

    Why Puppies You Thought Were Housetrained Might Have Accidents

    Too Young to Be Fully House Trained – Some puppies, especially those under 12 weeks of age, haven’t developed bladder or bowel control yet.

    Incomplete House Training – Many puppies simply haven’t learned where to eliminate—or they haven’t learned a way to tell their people when they need to go out. Some puppies house soil only under specific conditions. For example, your puppy may soil when he’s home alone for long periods of time, first thing in the morning, sometime during the night, only when you’re not watching or only in infrequently used rooms. Other puppies may urinate or defecate whenever they feel the need to go.

    Breakdown in House Training – Sometimes puppies who seem to be house trained at one point regress and start soiling in the house again.

    Other Reasons Your Puppy Might House Soil

    Urine Marking – If your puppy is over three months of age and urinates small amounts on vertical surfaces, he may be urine marking. Young dogs engaging in this behavior often raise their hind legs when urinating.

    Separation Anxiety – If your puppy only soils when he’s left alone in your home, even for short periods of time, he may have separation anxiety. If this is the case, you may notice that he appears nervous or upset right before you leave him by himself or after you’ve left (if you can observe him while he’s alone).

    Submissive/Excitement Urination – Your puppy may have a submissive/excitement urination problem if he only urinates during greetings, play, physical contact, scolding or punishment. If this is the case, you may notice your puppy displaying submissive postures during interactions. He may cringe or cower, roll over on his belly, tuck or lower his tail, duck his head, avert his eyes, flatten his ears or all of the above.

    Medical Causes for House Soiling – It’s always a good idea to visit your puppy’s veterinarian to rule out medical causes for house soiling. Some common medical reasons for inappropriate urination and defecation follow.

    Urinary Tract Infection (UTI) – Puppies with urinary tract infections usually urinate frequently and in small amounts. They may also lick their genital areas more than usual.

    Gastrointestinal Upset – If your puppy was house trained but now defecates loose stools or diarrhea in your house, he may have gastrointestinal upset for some reason.

    Change in Diet – If you’ve recently changed the amount or type of food you give your puppy, he may develop a house soiling problem. Often, after a diet change, a puppy will defecate loose stools or diarrhea. He may also need to eliminate more frequently or on a different schedule than before the diet change.

    Miscellaneous Medical Causes – Other medical causes include abnormalities of the genitalia that cause incontinence (loss of bladder control), various diseases that cause frequent elimination and medications that cause frequent elimination.

    How to House Train Your Puppy

    House training is accomplished by rewarding your puppy for eliminating where you want him to go (outside) AND by preventing him from urinating or defecating in unacceptable places (inside the house). You should keep crating and confinement to a minimum, but some amount of restriction is usually necessary for your puppy to learn to “hold it.”

    How Long It Will Take

    Some puppies learn where and where not to eliminate at a very young age, while others take longer to understand. Most puppies can be reasonably house trained by four to six months of age. However, some puppies are not 100% reliable until they are eight to twelve months of age. Some puppies seem to catch on early but then regress. This is normal. Keep in mind that it may take a while for your puppy to develop bowel and bladder control. He may be mentally capable of learning to eliminate outdoors instead of inside, but he may not yet be physically capable of controlling his body.

    How Often Your Puppy Needs to Go Out

    All puppies are different, but a puppy can usually only hold his waste for the same number of hours as his age in months. (In other words, a four-month-old pup should not be left alone for more than four consecutive hours without an opportunity to go outside.) He can last longer at night, however, since he’s inactive (just like we can). By the time your pup is about four months old, he should be able to make it through the night without going outside.

    House Training Steps

    1. Keep your puppy on a consistent daily feeding schedule and remove food between meals.
    2. Take the puppy outside on a consistent schedule. Puppies should be taken out every hour, as well as shortly after meals, play and naps. All puppies should go out first thing in the morning, last thing at night and before being confined or left alone.
    3. In between these outings, know where your puppy is at all times. You need to watch for early signs that he needs to eliminate so that you can anticipate and prevent accidents from happening. These signs include pacing, whining, circling, sniffing or leaving the room. If you see any of these, take your puppy outside as quickly as possible. Not all puppies learn to let their caretakers know that they need to go outside by barking or scratching at the door. Some will pace a bit and then just eliminate inside. So watch your puppy carefully.
    4. If you can’t watch your puppy, he must be confined to a crate or a small room with the door closed or blocked with a baby gate. Alternatively, you can tether him to you by a leash that does not give him much leeway around you (about a six-foot leash). Gradually, over days or weeks, give your puppy more freedom, starting with freedom a small area, like the kitchen, and gradually increasing it to larger areas, or multiple rooms, in your home. If he eliminates outside, give him some free time in the house (about 15 to 20 minutes to start), and then put him back in his crate or small room. If all goes well, gradually increase the amount of time he can spend out of confinement.
    5. Accompany your puppy outside and reward him whenever he eliminates outdoors with praise, treats, play or a walk. It’s best to take your puppy to the same place each time because the smells often prompt puppies to eliminate. Some puppies will eliminate early on in a walk. Others need to move about and play for a bit first.
    6. If you catch your puppy in the act of eliminating inside, clap sharply twice, just enough to startle but not scare him. (If your puppy seems upset or scared by your clapping, clap a little softer the next time you catch him in the act.) When startled, the puppy should stop in mid-stream. Immediately run with him outside, encouraging him to come with you the whole way. (If necessary, take your puppy gently by the collar to run him outside.) Allow your pup to finish eliminating outside, and then reward him with happy praise and a small treat. If he has nothing to eliminate when he gets outside, don’t worry. Just try to be more watchful of him in the house in the future. If your puppy has an accident but you don’t catch him in the act and only find the accident afterward, do nothing to your pup. He cannot connect any punishment with something he did hours or even minutes ago.

    What NOT to Do

    • Do not rub your puppy’s nose in his waste.
    • Do not scold your dog for eliminating indoors. Instead, if you catch him in the act, make a noise to startle him and stop him from urinating or defecating. Then immediately show your dog where you want him to go by running with him outside, waiting until he goes, and then praising and rewarding him.
    • Do not physically punish your puppy for accidents (hitting with newspaper, spanking, etc.). Realize that if your puppy has accidents in the house, you failed to adequately supervise him, you did not take him outside frequently enough, or you ignored or were unaware of his signals that he needed to go outside.
    • Do not confine your puppy to a small area for hours each day, without doing anything else to correct the problem.
    • Do not crate your puppy if he’s soiling in the crate.
    • If your puppy enjoys being outside, don’t bring him inside right after he eliminates or he may learn to “hold it” so that he can stay outside longer.

    For any accidents your puppy makes in the house, make sure to clean the area and sprinkle Clear the Air’s Carpet and Furniture Odor Eliminator over the soiled area.  Let sit for 24-48 hours and vacuum it up.  The odor should be completely eliminated and your pet will no longer associate that area with eliminating.

  • Tips On Keeping Your Pet Happy and Active

    Posted on April 3rd, 2012
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    It is important to keep your furry friends happy and active.  Clear the Air would like to share some of those tips with you:

    It seems like the most natural thing in the world—our pets need food, water, medical care and lots of love. But dogs and cats have other needs, too. Our furry friends need ample physical exercise and mental stimulation to lead truly full and happy lives.

    “They need jobs,” says Kristen Collins, CPDT, ASPCA Animal Trainer. Dogs and cats need to stay busy and engaged, but unfortunately most pets are unemployed—daily they sit at home, chronically bored and waiting for their humans to return from work. And as we all know, an idle pet can quickly turn into a naughty pet when restlessness becomes overwhelming.

    “With nothing to do, dogs and cats are forced to find ways to entertain themselves,” explains Kristen.  “Their activities of choice often include behaviors we find problematic, like excessive barking or meowing, gnawing on shoes, raiding the garbage, eating houseplants and scratching furniture.”

    To prevent behavior and health problems, Kristen recommends the following physical and mental workouts—both when you’re there to join the fun and when your pet is home alone.

    • Move it! Healthy adult dogs need at least 30 minutes of aerobic exercise twice a day. Jogging, swimming and playing at the dog park are all great ways to burn excess energy.
    • Engage in structured games, like fetch and tug-of-war—they’re not only great exercise but also teach your pet impulse control and strengthen the bond between you.
    • Keep your dog occupied when he’s home alone by giving him a food-stuffed puzzle toy, like the Kong, or some tasty chew toys.
    • Like their canine counterparts, cats also need plenty of aerobic exercise. Get kitty fit with rousing play sessions, such as chase and fetch with furry toys, small balls or toy mice.
    • Encourage your cat’s favorite home alone activities, including bird watching, exploring paper bags or boxes, watching cat videos or spending time in secure outdoor enclosures.
    • Teach your cat new tricks! Felines are quick studies and can learn practical skills like coming when called, sitting up, rolling over and even using the toilet!

    Kristen adds: “The bottom line is that you’re responsible for enriching your pet’s life. Providing opportunities to exercise your cat or dog’s mind and body will keep her healthy and happy—and enhance your relationship, too.”

    Info from this article from ASPCA’s website.

  • Springtime is Dog Time!

    Posted on March 28th, 2012
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    Springtime has sprung!

    It is time to clean up inside your home and spend your time outside with your dog for the Spring Season.  Here are some helpful tips to do that:

    • It is a good idea to schedule a vet check up for your dog.  Taking in your dog for a checkup after he has been inside for most of the winter will ensure your dog is healthy and ready to get outdoors.
    • Your dog will start shedding as the warmer months approach so it is a good idea to brush your dog on a daily basis.  This will help keep shedding under control and keep your dog neat and clean.  Brush all the way down to the skin which will loosen and remove dead hair and dandruff.  Brushing routinely will also help reduce the buildup of pet hair in your home.
    • Spring can bring mud outdoors so it is important to keep your dog’s feet clean.  In order to keep paw prints of mud and dirt off your newly cleaned home, greet your dog at the door and gently clean each paw with a damp cloth making sure to get between the toes and remove mud and debris.
    • Regularly wash your dog’s bed. Use a fabric cover that on your dog’s bed that can be easily removed for washing. Vacuum the excess hair and dirt and then wash the lining in a non-scented detergent without fabric softener these can irritate your dog’s skin.
      Read more here: http://www.miamiherald.com/2012/03/26/2714431/get-dogs-ready-for-the-spring.html#storylink=cpy
    • Get active with your pet!  Make sure you and your dog take advantage of the warmer weather and spend time outside.  If your pet has been cooped up most of the winter, take it slow at first.  Go to the local dog park or play fetch in your yard.

    Spending quality time with your dog will not only improve your pet’s behavior it will also improve your mood as well.  Who can’t enjoy watching a dog completely overwhelmed with happiness while he is playing outdoors?  Spring is here, it is time to get out with your pup!

  • Chickens

    Posted on March 23rd, 2012
    admin No comments

    Did you know it is chick season?  For those of you that have chickens as pets, Clear the Air would like to share some helpful tips on caring for your chickens.

    Remember, to keep chicken odor down, use Clear the Air’s Odor Eliminator – it is non toxic and completely safe even if consumed by your chickens.

    Here are some helpful tips on why, what and how for chickens:

    Why Raise Chickens?

    • Easy and inexpensive to maintain (when compared to most other pets)
    • Eggs that are fresh, great-tasting & nutritious
    • Chemical-free bug and weed control
    • Fun & friendly pets with personality

    First make sure you can legally own and raise backyard chickens

    • Search local chicken laws & ordinances

    How To Care For A Chick – First 60 Days:

    • A Young Chick Brooder  can be as simple as a sturdy cardboard box or a small animal cage like one you’d use for rabbits.
    • Pine shavings work best for flooring.
    • The temperature should be 90 to 100 deg. for the first week, decrease 5 deg. per week.  A 100 watt bulb pointing in one corner (not the whole brooder) works well.
    • Chick crumbles / starter & a chick waterer work for food and water.
    • Play with your chicks when young to get the use to being around people.
    • Section off an area in your yard where the chicks can explore, scratch, etc.  Make sure you can catch them when it’s time to come in and make sure it is blocked off well enough to keep predators, especially hawks and coyotes, out!

    Chicken Care After First 60 Days, General Chicken Care:

    • Once feathered out you’ll want to move your chickens into a chicken coop.  Rule of thumb is about 2-3 square feet per chicken inside the henhouse and 4-5 sq/ft per chicken in an outside run. Keep local predators in mind and make a safe home for your flock.
    • Pine shavings work best for flooring.
    • Most people go with chicken layer feed / pellets – available at the Country Feed Store
    • Vegetables, bread, bugs, chicken scratch (cracked corn, milo, wheat) are great treats for your chicken